Early September Update 2009

1. Storkayan - Gamla Stan Stockholm
2. Panoramic view of Bergen - Norway
3. Lysefjord - Norway in all its rugged glory
4. Grungedal - our picturesque lunch stop in the mountains
5. Kyrping Fjord - one of many picturesque fjords
6. Drottingham Slot - Royal Castle - Stockholm
7. Millesgarden - Stockholm
8. Briar on board the Romantika ferry - cruisin thru the Stockholm Archepelago
9. Briar in the Bergen Fish markets
10. Briar & MC on board the Romantika ferry Stockholm to Riga
11. Briar & MC on the Cruise tour up the Lsyefjord - Norway
12. Briar & MC in Bergen Norway


Helsingborg – Sweden our first destination after driving off the ferry and in glorious sunlight I might add. Located a park near the Tourist info. centre and a bankomat machine – so now armed with Swedish krona and info. on touring Sweden / Camping guide / sightseeing brochures etc.etc we hit the trail bound for Varberg on the western coast couple hours drive north of Helsingbord.
The terrain had become more rockier and undulating into hills even – first real hills we had seen in weeks with a lot more trees / forests - the worms were getting noisier so our first meal in Sweden was at a roadside stop near Halmstad at a Max burger joint ( Sweden’s version of Macka’s) . It was pretty full and about 200 metres further back there was a regular Macka’s. We both opted for the healthy over fifties watch your weight Chicken salad’s but did share a fries. It was a very good salad and well worth the money, far nicer and better than Macka’s. It was also noticeably well patronised by the locals.
After the worms had settled we journeyed on to Varberg – a popular seaside town/resort destination and being the last school holiday weekend (especially with the great weather forecast ) Varberg itself was humming – and to our first camp choice which was full – so Plan B scored a few groceries for dinner in a local supermarket then headed another 20 K’s further up the coast to another smaller seaside village & campground – no worries here – so after booking in for a couple nights and setting Hugo up – donned our swimsuits and headed down to the beach the time around 3pm a couple hundred metres walk. – beach was chocka as you would expect – lotsa families – unusual beach more like a sand bar – even had to walk over a little wooden bridge to get to the sand bar and being in Bay and very little wind or sea swell if any. Temp. around mid twenties very nice for chilling out with a mag or book and catchin some rays and workin on the tans. After a few hours of relaxing we wandered back for a shower and a barbi – marinated pork ribs tonite- yummo. Chilled with a vino and good barbi food, spent the evening basking in our first swedish sunset. The next day was a bit cloudier than the clear blue skies of the previous day but still very warm and plenty of blue sky still about – had been told and read about the biggest Gecko’s department store around a 20k drive inland and the Saturday morning Varberg markets were on – so decided to check both out. Found a park(gratis) about half full down near the port/marina – several hundred metres walk again to the main plaza and the markets. Bustling little square with all the usual bricabrac to clothing/book/souvenir/nic nac and of course meat/fseafood/fruit & Veg and several huge flower stalls with some magnificiently coloured dahlia’s & roses – briar even took a piccie. Managed to score some new shadz as me old Armani’s had finally give up the ghost. Briar found a couple of English paperbacks to read – found some very fresh blackberries & beans . An hour or so later back to Hugo and of to Ullared and the Geckos store we headed – spotted a lavaire car wash – so ducked in and gave a Hugo a quick wash down – especially the cab and overcab parts – clear some of the build-up of insects splattered all over the front – very bloody insects up this way – certainly leave their mark. Nice drive further inland – pas some flatter land again – with the fields of wheat and barley – also went passed some scenic little lakes and forested areas. Found the Geckos and numerous off-shoot stores which was like a big shopping complex rather than a department store – reckon some of the Carrefours in Spain were bigger. Still had a poke around for an hour or so – did end up buying a new outdoor plastic door mat – as the $2.00 euro twine mat we got back in Alicante in December was pretty shredded and just hanging together – so spent our $ 30.00 swedish kroner ( $4.00 euro’s) and once again headed back to the camp – did stop at a ICA supermarket (very similar to IGA’s back home) . Did a shop and on the trail again – did stop for some lunch at one of the scenic lake parks for lunch – finally managed to find a warm roast chicken at last – seems to be a rarity up here in Scandanavia. Once back at camp we along with most of the campground were either at the strand(beach) or heading for it – so do as the locals do – spent another 3 or so hours chilling and workin on the suntan – was a wee bit windier than the previous day so went in for one dip – Briar even braved it again for a dip. Around 6 back to Hugo – both showered and spent the warm/sunny evening once again relaxing with a & vino / barbi again surprise, surprise and listening to the campground entertainment – a solo chap who sang both Swedish and English songs and being the last of this summers shows - had the campground crowd singing along – went to around midnight also.
Another warm & muggy night for sleeping
The next morning a different story weather wise – a greyish and cloudy sky – not a smidgeon of blue sky anywhere – a gentle drizzle came down as we packed Hugo up and headed off on our merry way. Heading further north to Goteburg – Sweden’s second biggest city - did have a wee spot of bother trying to not only locate a petrol station but also fill the tank with our bankcard – first time had to use – fortunately a very helpful Swedish man who spoken English soughted us out, so we were able to carry on our merry way once again. We arrived in drab weather tried two off the closer in city campgrounds which one was full and the other bloody expensive so – headed out to another about 10 k’s out. By this time the rain had started in splotches as we checked in – an average camp but hey had all the facilities (including cooking) that we needed.
When ya are used to a certain standard of camp – when ya strike one below the line jus goes to show how picky one gets. Not mentioning anyone of course – who me.
Still we managed to find a reasonable spot that was reasonably dry underfoot – so we didn’t get Hugo stuck in the mud. Happened to be next to a trotting training track and Hippodrome (Racecourse as they are commonly known throughout Europe) – so we had the occasional buggy or two either trot or gallop past. Felt a bit like a mini earthquake as they strode past – hardcase. Settled in for a wet night – did cook in the camp kitchen – did some wifiing – all good for a new tenant at 20 Kahira – excellent.
A Dvd later before drifting off to sleep with the sound of raindrops on Hugo’s roof. Blew quite a bit also during the night and the morning was’nt much better – a bit of a sleep in – 9.30 rise, even late for us.
Bused into town late in the morning and fortunately the weather had improved a wee bit – patches of blue sky and sun appearing. Checked out the olde town (as ya do or as us boring oldies do) the port area and harbour of course – managed to find a place to get rid of some unwanted hair from me scalp. Had a chatty little asian lass who had been born bred & raised in Sweden – but longed to go hang in London. She did a good job on me hair . Met Briar back for a coffee before wandering some more - an hour or so later found a lunch buffet restaurant (Lydia’s) offering a good deal in Goteberg’s biggest shopping centre Nordstad. Had a good mix of different dishes – good wholesome food.
Bellies full on we plodded again some more street and people gazing ( hey wasn’t raining either, bonus in fact it was now rather pleasant – Me new Nike’s given me a blister ( as Briar says my turn to moan) so, caught the bus back to camp. We did find
a supermarket store before catching the bus – bought a piece of fresh Scandanavian salmon for dinner. Which I might add went down a treat with a Spanish rjoha and some leftovers from the previous night. Dvd and bed – tried to have an early night – but being close to the motorway as well as a trotting track was rather noisy, by george.
Once again the rain came back with vengeance also during the night and we showered,brekkied and packed up Hugo amidst the showers.
Still once back on the motorway northbound again – 70 or 80 k’s later we were in blue skies and sunlight – maybe it just rains in Gotenburg a lot. We arrived into Stromstad – where we did a shop for a few nights worth – as we knew would be across the border the following day into Scandanvia’s most expensive country _ Norway. Found a great spot down at the harbour for lunch – tried looking for a petrol station but to no avail – have to wait till tmoro – instead booked into Dafto campground – very nice camp 4 ½ * and it was compared to our camp in Goteburg – the nice young lass at the reception picked a wonderful waterfront site for us – which Briat thought was the bees knees – so once set up and camp chair out book in hand – basking and reading in the warm Swedish sunlight again – aahhhh what more could a girl want ( I mean Briar of course ) – hey if the woman’s happy usually means u r as well – no wot I mean guv.
I left Briar to her book & basking in the sun, and went about doing some rock climbing and discovering the waterways and lake and also checkin the camp facilities etc.etc. There were many permanently set up caravans in our area of this massive campground. ( 750 sites approx.) The sites were big too – they had to be to accommodate some of the huge caravans and awning set ups I noticed – one caravan was 9 metres long(dual wheel) with an awning to match and had a big timber deck of to one end as well – hedged on three sides, complete with garden planters etc.etc. and there were around at least 70/80 about the same – but only about 20% had people staying in them – summer was over and the school holidays were over we think.
Superb lake , waterways and did thoroughly enjoy the rock climbing – shadz of boyhoodism ( good word ha) and yes the camp facilities were extremely good . I’m sure we will both have an en-suite to ourselves tonite and tmoro morning- choice.
Even though the camp cooking facilities were excellent – nothing beats a barbi with a view over the water – So. The anti-pasto tasted good – as did the barbi and the vino of course as we watched the sun set over the lake. Dishes and both enjoyed luxuriating in new private en-suites for our showers – the usual Dvd and drifted of into lala land. Briar was asleep almost as soon as her head hit the pillow – catchin up no doubt from the previous night.
Awoke to another superb morning – sun streaming into the camper and reflecting across the water – both of us found it hard to pack up and leave our wonderful site – but places to go, people to meet, etc etc. Did find a petrol station just before crossing the border using up the last of our Swedish kroner.
Our first experience across our 16th border crossing was to pay a bloody toll – auto tolls – take a picture of your no. plate and send ya the bill later even if you’re from another country. Hopefully will have sold Hugo and be back in NZ by the time the bill arrives ( supposedly 6 months later) . Had another two lots of tolls before pulling into Oslo centro – found the touro office – Briar played shotgun whilst we were in an illegal park in downtown Oslo and I made a dash for the info. centre to grab some info about Oslo itself and Norwegian campgrounds etc.etc. Once back to Hugo, we decided to make a beeline for the bobilpark ( campervan stationment ) – surprisingly I did manage over the internet to locate this one very handy to town – only about 5 or 6 in the whole of Norway ( in fact probably Scandanvia - had GPS coordinates for another two in Bergen and Stavanger. So found a waterfront spot and I mean literally waterfront again ( 2 metres) in amongst a couple of other campervans. About fifty or so parked up – not all preferring absolute waterfront – big port/marina area about ¾ k’s outta Oslo centro ( 150 Nor kroner for the night inc. electricity) bus at the gate to town – perfect.
So once plugged in and chocks under the wheels to deal with the slope – we sat and ate lunch while admiring our view across the marina. A couple campervans further down – group of 5 scottish lads and a swede or dressed up in kilts ( turns out to be a world cup qualifying game on tonite – between Norway and Scotland of course – we had wondered why all the Scottish bagpipes and kilt wearing blokes in town we had spotted earlier. Good bunch of lads priming themselves up for the big event – chatted to them whilst I guzzled a tinnie one had ceremoniously stuffed into me hand – be rude not to wouldn’t it. A couple had been to NZ for a holiday. Left them to it – had to get into town to get a fax of back home of urgency – did see them walk past to catch the bus into town. Good lads. We also caught the 31A into downtown Oslo – but got off the bus one stop to early as unsure where we were supposed to get off – hey never mind – did give us a chance to have a walk around the new part of the port/marina/shopping plaza & hotels/apartments etc. in downtown Oslo.
Then wandered up to the old part where had spotted an internet café earlier – did our bits – did however use a hotel further down the road to fax off our signed bond refund form back to Century 21 inda Mount. That done …a bit more off a walk around the centro, parks and also the Arkehus Slot – make the most of the glorious sunshine while it lasts –got some good piccies of Oslo harbour - there were bloody scots in kilts everywhere knockin back a wee dram well quite abit of dram actually - didn’t spot as many Norwegian supporters out and about.
By 6.00pm the streets were clearing out of scots and we decided to hang about at an Irish bar we found and have a couple and watch the first half. Found a good spot/table to watch the telly which we ended up sharing with a friendly Norwegian chap who nattered to us through the entire second half nearly – Norway were up by 2 at half-time anyhows and we were also enjoying the Norwegian chaps company and conversation – had a good olde natter and gleaned a bit of info. from him as well about Norway. Norway ended up winning 4 nil – the scots had a player red carded (sent from the field) we ended up having 3 beers each at $7.50 euros a beer (ouch), wot the hell its not like we do this that often , even had a couple scots who had left the game early pop in for one on the way home – not celebrating, the scots actually played poorly rather than Norway playing well.
We said goodbyes’ to our new best Norwegian friend – we never even got his name or gave ours - We ended up catchin the wrong bus home – but had a free night tour of the Bygdoy area before goin back on the same bus back into the centro to catch the right bus where we also got off one stop later than we should have – but had a moonlight stroll back along the opposite side of the marina back to Hugo. Both starving as we hadn’t eaten since lunch – toasted chicken/cheese & tomato sangers for dinner, then both hit the horizontal mode –
The next morning was a bit greyish sky not raining though, had brekkie first before headin to the shower room, did notice very little movement around the Scottish lads campervan, managed to score the handicaps en-suite for us both, choice as the mixed shower block was full and busy at the time we arrived both showered we parted the marina- south west bound today – Kristiansand.
Stopped at a petrol station – one we could pay cash to the cashier like at home one this time. Hit the road – fields of barley & wheat again like Denmark almost but with lakes/inlets and lotsa forests – not too many towns or villages either – more tolls and numerous speed cameras out in the middle of no where – very strict on speed limits– noticeably everyone here sticks to them as well. Definite heavy usage of timber as the primary external cladding material of the majority of housing – white painted weatherboard houses by the bucketloads. Did get one flash from a camera – maybe they send that in the mail as well along with the automatic toll fees. Briar found the also numerous Moose warning signs amusing – she took a piccie of course. Stopped for lunch at a picnic stop next to one of numerous lakes along our route. Did have to share our spot with some Asians who pulled in behind not 5 minutes after we got their. Still managing to keep Briar happy with water views with our lunch fetish and around 5 minutes after our asian’s left we also packed up and headed off again and the further we drove southwards the sunnier and warmer it became until when we arrived in Kristiansand we had clear blue skies.
Managed to find a close and better still free car park near the town centro. Hugo locked up we ventured around – snapping away at a couple of picturesque and also harbour spots. Bought a few fruit (Zespri even up here..)and veg from a couple of stalls near the main Kyrkan (cathedral) . Quite touristy with people from everywhere around the globe it seemed mainly due to the soon discovered World Series Beach Volleyball tournament currently going on here in Kristainsand – even wandered past the temporary main arena set-up . Did have a look at the draw to see if any kiwis in – ex. NZ netballer Anna Scarlett’s name their but knocked out in both the first rounds of the main draw and the looser’s pool as well. The men with Jason Lockhead from the mount also knocked out. Happened to be wearing me (I Call New Zealand Home t-shirt) so got a few second looks – mainly from the babe’s of course (yeah right) . After an hour or so more wandering back to Hugo and then checked into our Camp about 10 k’s outta town . Waterfront spot – but not for us or Hugo – seemed to be more of a permanent’s camp as opposed to a touring camp spot. Still they had a new and excellent kitchen –dining room facility which we utilised to the max. – getting our monies worth ya know. Even struck up several conversations with a few Norge locals who came in to do there dishes whilst we cooked and ate. Ya have to talk first as they are a shy bunch – but once you have made the initial start-up – they soon rattle and hum. Did I mention that the dining room had more magnificient water views of the local archipelago around Kristiansand – jeez I’m good to ya Briar. The camp wasn’t full –so there only a few campers still about – the summer holidays up here are over – although weatherwise it seemed just fine and dandy to us kiwis from down under.
We shared our area of the campground with only one other campervanner – so very peaceful spot. Had nice en-suite bathrooms for Briar, 4 * aye girl, only the best. So both utilised the showers both night and morning , the usual Dvd (book..), before beddybys.
Woke to another splendiferous morning – not a cloud to be seen. After showers and a cooked brekkie for a change we headed off again around 10.00am – another 260 k hike to Stavanger today – did stop at a local supermercado for a few items and filled up with some more diesel before off on our way. Following the coast road around to Stavanger – once again, shit loads more camera’s and 60/70 k zones out in the middle of no where. We both figured it may have something to do with the winter months – when the roads are precariously snowy/icy and wettery ( chair bro more good kiwi grammar – ay cus). As we neared our destination our clear warm blue sunny skies turned to grey ominous about to piss down skies appearing - we did manage to get into Stavanger township – right down into the port/marina to the info. centre – pick up a couple brochures and use some free 20 min. internet. Very helpful young chap set us right about a fjord tour for tmoro. Then we set about finding our campground – 3 or k’s from the town. Jus managed to get booked in and find the driest spot possible under some big trees near a power box – not the best spot but the best out of a bad choice – and the rains came down for a good half hour. Gave me enough time to dash up the road to a Hotel and get an urgent fax away home to NZ. Quite a busy campground compared to the last – it reminded us a bit of Amsterdam – a real youngies campground – lotsa 2/3 person tents around. The facilities were around 2* but as the old cliché goes- you get what ya pay for – it did have free wifi – bonus.
Mexican burritos for dinner with some pre-cooked mince from the previous nite – which was good as this camp only had one stove which was busy most the time – did manage to throw our dish in the oven before the youngies crowded the kitchen for the rest of the night, the showers also continued for the rest of the night .
The next morning was as dismal as the previous evening – showery and no sign of a let up. Hey our first shittty day in weeks really – hardy touro’s like us just box on. We found a good parking spot very close to where we had to catch our fjord tour cruise boat. Locked up Hugo safe and sound, boarded the boat in showery weather – rugged up in parkas along with about 50 other hearty touro’s. Spent 4 hours cruising the Lsyefjord and one of Norway’s most visited attractions – Pulpits Rock which towered 700 metres above us from our tour boat on the fjord. Amazing to think that these fjords were formed during the big melt at the end of the ice age over 400,000 years ago. The jagged,twisted and layered rock formations that rise straight out of the water are awe-inspiring – in many places the formations rise 500-700 metres almost vertically and as much as the weather wasn’t the best it sought of gave ya a true indication of fjord’s in Norway maybe during the winter months ? It was a neat trip and we both enjoyed it thoroughly – can imagine now what Fiordland in the South Island looks like now. (and that’s embarrassingly true for both of us…will set it right in the next couple of years)
The crappy weather didn’t let up all the way back into Stavanger port – once back at the docks – there was an olde sailing ship next to our disembarkment point – so had a quick squiz through – entirely made from wood and the old cotton or maybe linen sailcloth as they did in those days – pretty amazing stuff – the old girl is still in use today much like the Spirit of Adventure back home.
Once back in Hugo and dry again we headed north again – had two tunnels to travel under the sea down ya go to pop out on an island then back down again coming up to pop out on another island – both were around 6/7 k’s long and went 2k’s downwards under the sea – both looked pretty weathertight as well – could feel briar’s tenseness when we were at th bottom. Good stuff. After that on the second island we then had to catch a car ferry to get back to the mainland again – around a 30 minute ride across the North sea – well not quite, did have several islands and inlets before open sea but it sounds good though ay. Gave one long enough to have a pee, a hot dog and a coffee before headin down to drive off the ferry – had around an hours drive through more very coastal scenery – the bleak weather painted a very and probably true picture off the majority of the weather here year round. The landscape here obviously cops the full force of the North sea and the westerlies that blow staright of it. Good sheep country – very rocky with patches of grass – some flowers dotted about, like wild heather ( seems to be one of Briars favourite’s as we have about 5/6 piccies of it now ) and a few other unknown species that can stand the harsh enviroment and yes there were some sheep as well.
Once in Haugesand we parked up and did a wee reconnoitre of the town and port area – it also happened to be the weekend of their annual jazz festival – but the shitty weather had obviously kept many punters away – shame for the local businesses – their were still quite a few hearty stall holders and punters alike braving the windy showery weather. Did locate a money machine as we needed some – found out also where we catch the Bergen fastboat from – then went in search of the only local campsite. The rain over several days had made the place a bit of a mudpatch and made selection of sites rather limiting – the fact that our power lead can only stretch about 25m max. meant even fewer optons – still we got a spot on an angle on the slope and we got stuck and could not go any further – glad wasn’t me drivin. (He He He…some machines are not tractors…)
So just put up witht the slope – hey at least we had power . The rain didn’t let up either all arvo and night – we did manage to get a warm shower in – we also utilised their kitchen facilities for cooking our dinner as well. Had a TV room so we could watch a bit of the Berlin Summer Olympics. Poor old Briar ended up a bit squashed into the corner of the bed inda morning – but we both managed to sleep OK – despite worrying about how to get out the next morning – needn’t have worried as their were around 10 or so other campervanners also in the same predicament . Bullshit really –the campground should at least advise if not provide suitable sites for campervanners.
Still a couple of very helpful local Norwegian (Grunty buggers…farmers I reckon so they needed a camper like a tractor…) campervanners with dual wheels had no trouble pulling our neighbours and us out of the quagmire. Suprisingly the majority (20 or so) of the campervanners that had parked overnite all buggered off and left only ourselves and two other campervanners for the next nite. (Ha..funny that!! We pushed a German guy out as well)
We moved to a new position on the tarmac roads at the end of a cul-de-sac where we had to borrow the campgrounds extra long lead so we could plug in. We left poor old Hugo behind around midday a s we had prebooked a fastboat trip up through the Rodaland archepelago (hundreds of islands) to Bergen , the road up would have been tough work on Hugo – so we decided to leave him behind for one night – have a boat ride up to Bergen one day – stay the nite in a hotel and catch a fastboat in the arvo back to Haugesand. Have I mentioned yet that the morning had stopped raining at least – still very dull grey skies , but at least no rain while we organised ourselves.
A taxi ride to the wharf – where we had 40 minutes or so to kill – had a burger (best burger yet) and chips for lunch at the only shop open on the waterfront – being a Sunday and all.
The boat left pretty much on time and we headed outta Haugesand on a wet and windy arvo – had around a 20 minute open North sea ride ( a very bumpy and wild ride – excellent stuff) before winding our way through the hundreds and hundreds off islands dotted up this coast. By the way we did have prior warning about our bumpy ride from the captain – made it much more exciting – did spot the odd anguished face amongst the crowd. Hey it was a catamaran that still blasted through the big swells at about 20-22 knots or so rather easily.
Once again very rocky formed island all the way along – still with plenty of vegetation on them – mostly coniferous trees and shitloads of wild heather formed among the rocks. There were also plenty of lighthouses, baches or holiday homes – full crdit to the captain navigating through all these nooks and crannies. We arrived around 4pm in Bergen – the rain had stopped and the odd streak of sunlight trying to break through. Very pretty approach to the main port area , once off we made a beeline for our hotel which was only a 400m walk from our disembarkment point at the wharf. Once checked in and refreshed (loo stop) we headed out for a reconoitre and do a bit of wandering the streets of Bergen. Didn’t even bother with raincoats or our brolleys. Very much a port town as you would expect being the main one on this Norwegian coastline. Still very pretty with parks and very well laid out parks and piazza’s.
As we had nearly a whole day the following day before we had to leave we left a few areas alone which we would visit the next morning. Did have a quick peek at the fish markets ( mainly deciding on what to do for dinner) . Will tell ya a bit more about the fish markets tmoro. Ended up back at the Hotel around 6.20pm just as the showers began again – good timing on our behalf. We ended up having dinner at the hotel – typical norwegian fare – nothing fancy but robust, hot and plenty of it. Briar had salted beef and I chose the lamb chops for a change. First time I’ve ever seen Briar pass on lamb in the past 12 years. After dinner we both blobbed out in the room and watched more summer olympics and BBC – about all ya could get unless ya paid for it. Did see Usain Bolt smash the 100m world record yet again. Awesome. Had a very hard case old fashioned room as well – still we both slept well, I certainly did. The next morning looked OK from our room windows so headed down for the buffet brekkie – included in the room deal- so all good – had some Norwegian smoked salmon with me eggs for brekkie – delicioso. (they all eat salad and hama dn cheese and gherkins for breakfast!!! Very challenging to choose but got me fruit, muesli and enough for keeping me happy)
Showered and with fuel tanks full we headed off to discover a bit more of Bergen – did the olde town part first Bryggen ( how Bergen used to be spelt & pronounced back in the olde days one would presume.) But not before once again we saundered through the famous Bergen fish markets – well everything one could imagine that the sea offered in these parts was on offer. Had sea water tanks with fresh fish/crabs/languostines etc.etc. There were also some massive crab legs like at least 18/20 inches majority of them. You could also buy premaid plates of seafood of the different produce trying to sell. One could also buy a genuine seal skin or fox or wolf skin in many various colours – I have to say at a reasonable price – very greenpeace thing for me to say, I know. Good thing we’re on a budget – passed through without spending a dime or should I say kroner. The olde houses of Bryggen about 8 of them that line up in a row and all lean over to one side or the other holding each other up, most amusing site – even took a piccie of a door that was on the lean and the window above to match. Several of the shopfront windows were cut on the angles to specifically match the slopes of the jambs. What gives it its charm – where in NZ do we have something to match this – Botany Downs I hear you mumble ?? We then moved onto the olde castle ruins of the Hanseatic and the Olde Stone Cathedral – then took the Funicular up to Mt. Floyen which offered a spectaculer vista’s of Bergen City and the surrounding islands and inlets. The weather had done the right thing and allowed us to take piccies with the sun shining- this city averages 280 rainy days a year – so we managed this right somehow. Had a coffee and cake at the top whilst admiring the views – back down again where we wandered through some more streets before deciding on a pizza for lunch. After lunch which was around 2pm / back to the hotel to collect our bag and down to the jetty to catch the 4pm back to Haugesand . It was really nice way to leave Bergen – especially with the sun still shining. Got some scenic shots this time on the way back, we sat outside on the back of the catamaran fastboat out of the wind. Had several stops on the way back – but only one on the way there. Pulled into Haugesand almost to the allotted minute (7.00pm) – well done captain.
Stopped for some Thai for dinner before catchin a Taxi back to the campground and Hugo – who I’m sure missed us terribly. He was high,dry, safe and well and glad to see us I’m sure. He was also on the tarmac – so no chance of us being stuck if it rained. There were also another half a dozen new campervanners in the campground.
Book and a cuppa for Briar, Dvd and a cuppa for me. Briar had no trouble sleeping this nite and me too off course. The fine weather continued the next morning – in fact it was even nicer than the previous day- so after the 3 x S’s brekkie we packed up Hugo and headed east toward Oslo only this time – through the middle over the mountains – only one road so no choice –still it was a reasonable road and only had one toll to pay on this one for a change. Passed more very scenic lakes/inlets/fjords etc. almost shades of Switzerland in some parts – fantastique.
Stopped by a waterfall near the main road – in fact so near it virtually descended down the cliff face and ran under the road. Took a few piccies. Spent quite a few kilometres underground as we passed through 6 or so more tunnels – some up to 7/8 km’s long – instead of going around or over it – ya just go through it, the same as you do in Switzerland. Stopped for lunch almost at the top of the mountain range lakeside again of course near the ski resort of Grungedal . Fascinating terrain similar to Tongariro – small lakes formed by melting snow, rounded rock formations , grass but little other type of vegetation – excellent sheep country. (Actually too high for them and too bloody cold as well…) Still very scenic spot for comida (lunch).
The descent down was almost as scenic as the climb – more rock, pine trees / birch trees and river /streams/brookes taking the melting water down the mountain ranges . We stopped for a coffee and a diesel top up in Selfjord, another resort town perched between two lakes , very scenic and reminiscient of the Interlaken area of Switzerland. Another 70 k’s up the road we stopped at a town called Heddal, where one of Norway’s most visited sights - The Wooden Church of Heddal – everything in the church is made entirely from timber (apart from nails) all locally sourced no doubt. Even down to the timber shingled roof. It features prominently on Norwegian postcards and tourist pamphlets etc.etc. – It was Norwegian building of old at its best. The obligatory piccies – on to our camp only a few more k’s up the road at Notodden. Another interesting campground – have to drive over a runway to get to it and yes planes were still flying in and taking off – whilst we were there, not as we drove across it. The warm temps. and sunlight allowed for our favourite pastime – vino and barbi as the sunset over the hills.
Awoke to yet another bright sunny day as we left Notodden and headed for Drammen and another under sea tunnel – this one was around 8 k’s long - 2 ½ k’s down – the countryside all the way down to Drammen, at almost sea level was once again fields of wheat/barley and rapeseed.
We decided to bypass Oslo (been there , seen that…)and to do this we had to take the tunnel road, fairly well used judging by the amount of traffic on it, after popping out on the otherside back into the fields and fields again of you know what. When we did cross the border again near Orje back into Sweden the landscape changed into forest after forest of varying conifer species with those inlets/lakes intermingled between – have I used the term scenic yet – probably.
Stopped for lunch at yes another scenic lakeside picnic stop. After half an hour or so a rowdy park caretaker appeared and started using his whipper snipper which changed the serenity of our spot – so moved on shortly after to our campground but not without stopping first for a grocery top up at a huge shopping complex of the motorway not far from the campground. It was good to get back to a country although still expensive – certainly not as expensive as Denmark or Finland- Briar splashed out we bought some thick steaks - yumo and it was for dinner that night. Our campground also just happened to be on the shore of Sweden’s and probably Europe’s biggest lake Vanern near Karlstad. Excellent facilities – even had 4 *cooking facilities and a TV room – where we could watch some more summer Olympics as we cooked, ate and did the dishes – private en-suite type bathrooms – choice. Had a nice sandy beach area which no doubt would have been packed only a couple of weeks ago. A few stragglers and the odd touro like us about now .
Fairly cloudy morning as we left Karlstad – Stockholm bound today – 320 k’s – mostly on the motorway so averaging 100k’s per hour – we cut it out pretty quickly and Briar seemed to be on a mission (tried to meet Delilah’s predicted time of arrival – went to 7 mins out…not bad for a girl in a camper van)- arrived at camp Bredang around 2pm (12k’s outta Stockholm)– so just settled in with a late lunch, did a couple loads washing, blogsite writing, bit of Wifiing – cooked dinner in the campground kitchen with the aide of a French Bordeaux – met some neat Israeli girls and a dutch chap. Yes it really does all happen in kitchens the world over ya know. Campground also had unusually a Thai restaurant – which would be rude not to try one night whilst we were here. The usual Dvd –MC and book for Briar before bed.
Woke to a reasonable day – cloudy with the odd patch of blue sky- it did shower off and on during the night. As we have seen in previous main cities they are very multi-cultural with people from many varing ethnic backrounds and Stockholm is no different – the train station which was about a 10 min. walk from the camp was part of a more recently planned urban development which seemed to be populated with all sorts of different ethinicities – anything except Swedes. The train/metro was like any other European city – efficient and on time – Auckland could sure use a similar system.
We arrived at T-Centralen station in the city and made a beeline for the info. centre – where you had a ticketed wait for your turn – where a very helpful young lass gave us all the guff we needed, including where to go to book our ferry crossing to Riga – Latvia – which we did pretty much immediately at another station – Central.
10 minute walk amongst the buzz of city streets we found our booking office – did the deed - all good for following Tuesday arvo crossing – sweet as. So – off we went to do some sightseeing – did stop at a Thai (coincidently) restaurant for lunch ( $8.50 euro buffet and drink) to good a price to pass up and the food was good.
Wandered the Gamla Stan region (Old town of course – and really fab – designer jewellery, clothes, you name it)) – the Royal palace – various churches and old cobblstoned lanes and buildings – pretty much as they were 200 years ago. Lotsa touristy shops , galleries etc.etc. after several hours the weather started to look ugly so we decided to shake our tail feathers back to camp.
Arrived back to Hugo only about 5 miuntes before the heavens opened up and down it came for most of the night again.
Due to our huge buffet lunch we only needed a toasted sanger for dinner- to wet to venture out anyhows – even skipped showers that night. It was still very wet the next morning – although their were signs of it beginning to clear and by the time we had showered/breakfasted and on our way it had stopped – but took our umbrella’s just in case. Museo day today – with several good museo’s here to see – trained back into T-Centralen where we saundered thorgh the Architek museo followed by the Moderna Museo right next door and on their own island of Steppenholm . Even lunched at the Moderna with superb views off the harbour and waterways of Stockholm. Caught a ferry to another island where briar wanted to see the Ikea exhibit on at the Liljevach Gallery (Ikea is originally from Sweden of course) – both thought the exhibit was disappointing certainly not value for money like the previous museo’s we had visited earlier in the day. Did walk around past the Tivoli adventure park (just like the one in Berlin) and on to see Rosendal Palace and thru some gardens – where a wedding was taking place – caught abus back into town and trained backed out to Bredang. The weather had cleared up during the arvo – so we fired up the barbi for dinner.
A late rise the following morning being a Sunday and all, we did head back in to the city about lunchime to catch another ferry out to the Drottingholm Royal Castle, full boats until 2pm so booked our tickets – went for a squizz around the rathus (City hall)
Sat down at the waterfront and ate pour premade filled rolls with a takeaway coffee, before catchin our packed to the max. ferry boat ride out to Drottingholm, Stockholm is really a maze of waterways – the ferry ride was around 40 mins. – had several stops along the way. Once at Drottingholm Slot – very picturesque as you approach it by water – we did the tour through the apartments and rooms first.
Fortunately managed to tag onto an English speaking tour group – gave ya a little history into the goings on at Drottingholm - during the Golden Age – around the early to late seventeenth century. A reoccurring pattern we have seen through many country estates / castles / slots / schlosses / chateaux’s etc.etc Once again opulence to the max. and gardens etc.etc to match also. Some of the manicured gardens in these estates are tres magnifique and not like any one would see back home. The shear size and magnitude of these places are just incredible. Spent a great couple hours wandering about in glorious Swedish sunshine – caught the last ferry back to the City – a different route back and no stops – trained back out to camp.
Another barbi for dinner – the usual 4 x D’s and bedtime. Spectacular sunny morning for our last sightseeing day in Stockholm – trained all the way to the last stop Ropstan before catchin a bus to the Millesgarden – Swedens most famous Sculptor Carl Mills . A 5 acred gardened hilltop estate with spectacular vistas of Stockholm city itself. It had the majority of his most famous sculptures dotted about the estate strategically off course – his wife was also a prominent painter at the time also. Very interesting place to visit – not much on sculpting but enjoyed it anyway – the suburb it was in also reminded us of a very affluent Remuera – big mansion-ly looking homes ( that great grammar again) .
Bused and trained back into the centro again where we stopped for lunch at the Dubliner (Irish Pub) . Both had the Dagens Lunch ( Chicken & Vegie pie ) was OK. (beer was great too)
Good value monetary wise. When you are in Scandanavia one has to keep an eye on the budget at all times. We think we got it expensive at home – no way hosay.
Wandered through another part of the city we hadn’t been to yet before catchin the 4pm back to camp. Around 8 ish we headed down to the camp restaurant to have some Thai and watch some of the Womens World cup football – being held in Helsinki Finland – France were playing Norway. The Thai was both excellent in taste and value for money – even commented to our waitress – best Thai so far in Europe.
Both waddled back to Hugo where we blobbed out in front of a Dvd, before bedtime.
Awoke a little late but that’s OK.
Camp day today – some last minute clothes washing and a good spring clean and wash for Hugo – Did take the bikes down to go for a quick ride locally and also to get a few bits for lunch in Bredang – trying to use up the last bits and pieces in the fridge before we sail to Riga. After lunch and packing the Bikes inside and cleaning out the fridge and packing cupboards for non-rolling . etc.
We headed off to catch our ferry ride around 3pm – had to be their by 4pm for check-in – we did get their 15 minutes early but then so had everyone else and the ferry car/truck deck level was already two thirds full (of ferry experienced and partying Latvian and Lithuanianas…)before we rolled on and into place.
Strapped and locked Hugo up – made our way up to our cabin on the eighth deck. First time on an overnite ferry – mind you we had spotted the terminal and a similar boat to our one the day before from the Millesgarden. Cabin No. 8523 – cosy with an en-suite and a TV with two drop down beds. Put our stuff in and headed up to the sundeck to watch our departure from not only Stockholm but Scandanavia for us – left about 3 minutes after 5pm – along with two other ferry boats – one a car/passenger ferry like ours and one a purely passenger ferry. We were the last to pull out – would have been a sight to have seen three ferries in a row go past – but I guess the locals would be use to it. Had a spectacular sunny evening to head through the Archepelago of islands out from Stockholm – we spent a good couple hours on the sundeck gazing and admiring not only the scenery but the captain’s skills in navigating this ship through some very narrow channels between islands. A memory to savour for sure. Took 3 ½ hours to exit the islands of Sweden’s archipaelago..amazing stuff. Eu mainland here we come!

Well Adieu Adieu - Sweden and Scandanavia
Till next time

Early August 2009 Update

1. The crew - Barbequing & eating & showers in Ertebolle Jutland. Denmark
2. Schwerinschloss - Northern Germany
3. Briar Mike's Bike tour - Copenhagen
4. Briar & MC at Grenen - Denmarks most northern point
5. Briar & MC at Frederiksborg Slot. Hillerad. Zeeland. Denmark
6. Briar on the Tree Tops gangways - Egeskov Slot - Kvaendrup- Denmark
7. Briar - A Rose amongst the Rose gardens - Egeskov Slot - Kvaendrup
8. Briar & Hugo - catchin the Ferry - Helsingor ( Denmark to Sweden)
9. Storebaeltbro Bridge - 11 km long - Between Funen & Zeeland island's - Denmark
10. The new Maersk Opera house - Copenhagen Denmark
11. MC biking in the Roseborg Slot gardens - Kobenhavn Denmark
12. Nyhavn Canal - Kobenhavn Denmark







Early August Update 2009

We must have struck one of Europe’s wettest summers on record – I was certainly thinking that as we awoke to yet another drab showery day in northern Europe – beginning to think it’s just following us around. It did clear for a bit as we paid the bill & serviced Hugo at the service camperstop at the campground before we left .
Northern bound again – couple sightseeing stops along the way.
First stop – Schwerin town next to another lake ( one thing Germany has got plenty of – lakes) Schwerinschloss is also a very busy tourist stop /attraction as we found out – couldn’t get a park for miles around – ended up drivin through the main drag of Schwerin in our endeavours to try to sneak a park somewhere- the rain also started to come down in buckets again – so we drove past the Schloss each way and I pulled up in a bustop bay so could get a couple snappies of the Schloss – quite impressive complete with moat – wooden drawbridge – also had huge gardens – built in the 17th century .
We headed outta town and stopped at another Wiligard Schloss and yes on its own lakefront – called you guessed it – Lake Wiligard –or as they call them here Wiligardsee. Quite an odd place with new bits added here and there I guess by different owners - took a couple snappies as we wandered around – the rain had stopped and the sun was now makin steam come off the ground and pavements.
We also had a bite here as the worms were drivin us crazy. Then on we drove up to a
Campground on the Baltic sea coast of northern Germany and in sunshine for the rest of the trip. Booked into Camping Zierow near Wismar town – very busy campground – lotsa families , managed to set up Hugo and have a cuppa before it started to drizzle again – it stayed that way until bedtime – off and on (least the camp had a very new and nice sanitation building) we were not far away either – a bonus on wet days & nights. Had cheap Wifi and needed to catch up on a bit of internet stuff – spent the evening doin the Wifi thing.
Suprisingly we woke to another drab and drizzly morning but high tailed it outta their with a plan of heading into Lubeck to check out an Irish pub maybe televising the All Black test – so after the usual 3 x S’s and brekkie on the road – bout 25 k’s to Lubeck – the sun even spasmodically shining through the clouds. We got to Lubeck – parked up and made a beeline staright for the pub – which bugger me dead – not only wasn’t showing the game – it wasn’t bloody open – a Saturday arvo and all . Bloody irish – no shouting at the TV screen for us this arvo- so we wandered about the streets of Lubeck which had a charming central plaza and the cute city gate called the Holstentor – on quite a bit of a lean. Stopped for a coffee and pastry and one of the numerous café stops along the Breite strasse. Again had to dodge another shower before heading another 20 k’s or so north of Kiel – hours drive or so – thought we’d stay at a Campervan Aire De stationment for a change – only $12.00 euros for the night and it had loos/ showers with hot water. Very picturesque little village right on the beach – 200 metres walk . Place was fairly packed when we pulled in with a couple vans in front and several behind – 50 spots and about an half an hour after we arrived it was full to the brim. A very helpful german lass helped us out with the auto-ticket/gate machine, her pommie hubby had told her to come and help us so I found out later after havin a chat to him.
It was quite a change to stay in a Campervan station for a change – you’re usually parked a meter or two only away from the next van - there are also many different nationalities represented at these stops sometimes – however one good thing at these places are most people very forthcoming/obliging and very helpful – there are also few kids around as well.
Did go for a wander down to the beach – good to feel sand and fine sand at that amongst ya toes again. Fairly windy and choppy seas further out – 14 ships of varying sizes, most stopped and anchored by the looks. This was still the Baltic so perhaps they were dodging rough seas somewhere. The sun was at least still shining with clouds racing across the horizon. We both enjoyed an Anti-pasto for a change ( hadn’t had one for a week or two- sacrilege) of course washed down with the roht-vein. No barbi tontie either. Still it was nice to sleep with the smell and sound of the sea in the backround.
The following morning we awoke to a clear blue sky – we also were probably the first awake a the camperstop – as Briar obviously couldn’t sleep – so we were up at sparrows fart. Early morning stroll along the beach again and went around the corner to the lighthouse – huge old trees filled with thousands of Starlings chirpin their heads off. Stopped off at the local supermarkt shop – grabbed some brot buns and some meat for dinner and on our way again – following the coast road up towards Denmark – decided to try one more Campervan stop near the border – At Maarsholm – also on the Baltic sea side.
Driving along the coast road – which was really about 2k’s away from the coast itself – hardcase you have roads that go off down to the beach only and then ya have to pay for parking in the assigned parking areas(that are a good walk to the waters edge). Dived down a couple to have a nosy – had to wait in Kappelin for the bridge to come down – timed it right – so could stop and watch the yachts going in and outta the harbour – also must have had a flea market going on in the harbour part – lotsa stalls/tents/marquees and hundreds of people about. Very busy little harbour today – we shot further around the harbour to find somewhere to stop for lunch – eventually found a spot and munched away on fresh filled brot buns – yum.
Then headed out to Maarsholm – which also had a search/rescue awareness & fundraising day going on – so it was also very busy with people everywhere- still the campervan stop looked OK – once again with a good/new sanitation building. Found a spot for Hugo – set up – only 3 amps here but – no electric boiling jug here dear.
Still had a cuppa anyhows and then went for a wander around the small sought of island we were on – a stroll through the town and also checked out the Search & rescue event – equipment displays – rides on the search & rescue boats- food stalls etc.etc much the same like we do in NZ. Also had a wander down at the marina – rows and rows of yachts – very big by the looks in this neck of the woods. Did a bit of chilling inda camper before heading down to the beach to have a barbi whilst the sun was shining and we could admire the view whilst wining and dining– we weren’t the only ones – in fact we got the last picnic table available – wunderbar evening for our last in Germany for awhile. The pink skies must surely mean goot wetter for morgen.
Very good campervan stop for $11.00 euros for the night– will recommend for sure.
Obvioulsy pink skies over here count for f..k all – the drizzle and drab grey sky had returned with vengeance and we left Germania under big black clouds much the same way it was back in 1945. We did stop for a grocery stock before we crossed the border- as we knew it would be more expensive on the other side.
We crossed the border again with no fuss – no border security – only a sign saying Vilkomen to Danemark – Countryside still much the same as in these flatlands experienced so far – more fields and fields of wheat/barley/rapseed and maize spasmodically broken with clusters and rows of trees.
Denmark only has a few major motorways compared to most of Europa so far (…and way less cars on the roads). We did however take mostly secondary roads to our next destination – Ribe – supposedly Denmarks oldest village.
The secondary roads much quieter than used to experiencing – nice for a change – most of the villages also off the main roads – so hardly drove through many – Jutland, they call the wild land of Denmark – not even – they haven’t seen the west coast of fiordland or the Urewera’s have they.
Found Ribe without to much fuss – little drizzle as we parked up near the centrum for a quick peekaboo and a much needed cash stop – as Denmark is not part of the Euro zone – have their own currency – Danish Krona.
About 7.5 krona to a euro we worked out . Had an impressive domkirke (church in Denmark) in the centrum and it wasn’t bloody Catholic either. After a quick gander about we headed to our campground which was only a couple k’s away on the otherside of town – so made a beeline for there. Looked like an easy bike ride into town – so booked in for a couple nights – weather tmoro supposed to be goot.
Had a wander about the campground – checked out where everything was – big campground.
Excellent campground with 4 star + facilities – even had private bathrooms if ya wanted – had an excellent kitchen/dining/TV room and an excellent outdoor BBQ/dining room – swimming pool – well stocked shop/bar/snack bar.
Kitchen and barbi facility all libre/gratis so of course we gonna use it – roast tatties and veggies on the menu tonite – along with a good piece of rheinfleisch ( steak in other words). These northern countries certainly know how to look after there paying camping customers well – a lot different to the Mediterranean countries.
Had wifi – so both did a bit of wifi-ing. The kitchen and barbi facilities were well patronised which was not surprised at all – so we got to cook and eat our dinner around 10.00pm after the majority had packed up and gone. Ate our steak and roast tatties whilst watchin some English speaking TV programme with Danish in subtitles – hardcase.
The rain had also returned in bucket fulls. After dishes & showers – into bed around midnight.
Both slept in late, - surfaced around 9.30-9.45am – huge sleep in for me. Musta needed it. – But the sun was shining and very few clouds about – so after showers and brekkie we hightailed into town on our bikes – bout 15 min. cycle – easy peasy.
Decided to check out the local Kunstmuseum – history about the town/ Vikings/ early Danish life and the local region and its role in the formation of Denmark as it is today.
Hour and a half of wandering through the museum – we back on the bikes and headed into the main plad . Had a nice pedestrian street – which we wandered up and down on – before heading to the local supermarkt shop to check out food pricing in Denmark.
After wandering through about the same as France & Switzerland, yes expensive – good thing we stocked the cupboards and boot with essentials ( red wine and chocolate predominately). Spent the arvo chilling – bit more wifi stuff before using the campground barbi/grill house for barbequeing our chops for tea. We also ate in the grillhouse – have tables precisely for it, great campground. After a leisurely meal and dishes – showers and a Dvd before bed. The cloud was back the following morning in patches – some blue sky but predominately cloud – after the usual morning routine and packing up Hugo for travel we headed outta Ribe – northward bound – Briars turn to drive today – destination Ertebolle near Faros – on the edge of the Limfordjen ( inner sea) with a detour through Billund and Legoland (amusement park – lotsa of it made out of you guessed it Lego- even has its own LegoHotel – averages 5000 adults/kids per day per annum. We drove around it once we got their late morning – queues at the gates – took some snappies of the Hotel/ Entrance gates etc. then onward we went – stopped at a parking/rest stop bay of the highway near Viborg for some lunch.
The cloud had now taken over the sky completely some wind to turn the numerous new power windmills we passed – no rain though. After the worms were fed we carried on to our stop Ertebolle Campground and when we arrived the sky had cleared a little – enough once we had found our pitch and set up Hugo to go for a walk along the shore of the Limfordjen – its like a huge sea lake with an opening about 70 km’s away from where we were walking but still salt water – sea weed and crabs – good wander about – even back thru the tiny hamlet of Ertebolle – even checked out a new build house nearly complete – back to Hugo before the drizzle came – we did however still manage to barbi and eat outside – have photo to prove it – holding umbrellas and eating in the drizzle – crazy kiwis I know.
They had cooking facilites which were no where near as new or as good as our last camp but were there.
After dishes/ showers/ a Dvd we drifted of to sleep with the gentle patter of drizzle playing tunes on Hugo’s roof. Awoke to pretty much the same as we went to bed with weather wise, cloudy and drizzly – still after showers and brekkie – once again hit the trail – destination northernmost tip of Denmark Grenen once again with a detour through Hirtshals a port town on the Northern sea coast side. The weather as we drove north also cleared a bit with patches of sun – but still showery.
Once again the countryside spattered with new power windmills – and still predominately flatish with the fields of maize/barley and wheat. We arrived in Hirtshals did a drive through the port and town areas and then headed out to the lighthouse or Fyr as they are called here. Rather significant Fyr- which also happened to be a ex-german defence point in Hitlers – North Atlantic sea coast defence – and the very most northern point – even Field Marshall Rommel who was in charge of the defences along the coast had visited this town and gun battery . So as you would expect a maze of bunkers for sleeping quarters / gun bunkers of all types – ammo bunkers – kitchen/mess bunkers – majority were still intact and a couple even had the the bunks/old stoves and numerous items still preserved from the days they were inhabited. Had a good look around before we headed back down to the port area where we stopped for a bite – did a quick shop at the local supermarket – before hitting the trail up to Skagen a town at the bottom of the sand bar to Grenen and the very northern tip of Denmark – Arrived at Grenen mid-arvo the sun had decided to come out and the wind decided to blow like a bastard- didn’t deter us or several hundred other tourists – doing the pilgrimage out to the very tip where the two seas meet – you can walk it ( 20-25mins) or you can be lazy and take the tractor bus out to the tip- being budget minded tourists we walked – but couldn’t make it out to the very tip without getting our feet wet and we both had trainers on. Got some good piccies – noticed lotsa ships parked up on the eastern – Baltic sea side – perhaps to rough on the North sea side. Was very windy and choppy seas on the north sea side.
Glad we had paid for a parking ticket as a parking warden was nosing around the campervans on our return to the carpark. Did a slow drive back through Skagen ( touristy and smelt like dead, rotting seaweed – terrible) don’t the touro’s notice it – checked into our campground – right on the Baltic sea coast about 20 k’s south of Skagen – set up and went for a walk along the beach – had to stop and seek shelter at one of the sanitation buildings on our way back to Hugo – as it fairly pissed down for a good half hour – didn’t have our umbrellas with us unfortunately. The showery weather hung around for most of the night – the odd break – long enough for us to head to the camp kitchen and utilise their kitchen for cooking our dinner – good old fashioned spaghetti bolognese tonite – had interesting chats to a german chap and a couple of Danish blokes – one who had been to NZ just this last February – loved it.
We told him Denmark was about the closest apart from Switzerland to feeling like home for us. The usual 4 x D’s (dinner/dishes/Duchas(shower) & Dvd) bedtime.
The following morning the weather had cleared somewhat – still very windy with clouds whipping across the sky but at least the sun was shining . Southbound this time through the town of Frederikshavn – drove around the cobbled streets havin a drive through nosy- then on towards Allborg – didn’t stop here either – just another drive through – then on down to Randers – where we did stop and do a shop for a few supplies – had some lunch next to some domed museum. We had a few hours to kill before our next designated campstop for the night – so we headed into Lisberg where we found several furniture showrooms including Ikea – so Briar could wet her appetite for Danish designed furniture – one of the reasons for coming this far north to Scandanavia.
After an hour or two perusing over sleek and beautifully crafted Danish furniture and household accessories we ventured a few k’s up the road to our next campstop – OK stop – had a pool and usable cooking facilities – but rather antiquated sanitary facilities. There was a factory across the road billowing out smoke the whole time we were there – even during the night- not the clean green Danish thing that’s for sure. The usual 4 x D’s – nothing special – into bed – woke to a superb morning – excellent for checking out Arhus this morning – we were only about 20 k’s out. So after 3 x S’s and checkin outta Aarhus camping in Lisberg we made a beeline for the dockyards of Arhus – where we found a park close to the central city no worries – good on yer My Delilah (tomtom) . We spent a few hours wandering the streets of Arhus – checked out the Domkirke which pretty much dominated Arhus’s skyline – very much a University city – passed the local campus on our way in – very new red bricked complex – in fact red brick is the preffered and predominate choice of exterior lining to most houses/apartments buildings and generally most buildings we’ve seen up here in Denmark – there are other exterior linings of course – but red brick seems to be the dominate one.
Pretty city with both old and new parts to it – big canal right through the guts of the city – no markets this morning being a Saturday morning – a few flower stalls by the domkirke and central pladtz . very busy along one pedestrian street – where all the shops and sales were on.
Stopped and had some Chinese buffet for lunch for a change – 70 Danish krona ($10.00 euros.) both went back for seconds – Chinese in Europe is a bit of a rarity and treat for us. But at that cheap price to a good an opportunity to pass up. By the way it was as good as home in a NZ buffet.
So after a decent squiz around and the worms having been well looked after, back to Hugo and we hightailed outta there – changing islands today – Funen - have to cross a smaller bridge in comparison to the massive bridges Denmark have. Headed to our campground on the northern coast of Funen – near the town of Veijby Fed – did a quick grocery stop on the way then booked into the camp. Impressive four star campground – very family orientated as most Denmark campgrounds are it seems.
Did a quick wash down of Hugo’s front and windscreen – bloodspots everywhere from insects on the road – really attracts bloodthirsty wasps who hang around the camper – so by washing what we could off – equates to less wasps hanging around hopefully.
The sun was shining so decided to have a walk down at the strand (beach) – a few people swimming – a couple fizz boats – skiers – and a catamaran trying to skip along with very little breeze behind it. Very picturesque – a bit like Orewa beach – with beachfront baches right on the beach. Fired up the Barbie tonite – could smell and see others doin it – so must be OK. Nice temps to sit out and enjoy dinner and a vino. Had free wifi at the camp – so after dinner/ dishes and duchas – both did some wifiing for the rest of the evening. Woke to a not so great morning – not raining but very minimal blue sky in the distance – 3 x S’s packed up Hugo and we off again – heading to Egeskov slot(castle) today near the town of Kvaendrup – had read about it from some brochures we picked up in a info centre. Had museum’s and all sorts – looked like a good place to check out – so we did.
Arrived around lunchtime – so had a quick bite before entering the complex or estate I should say. Lotsa people and cars in the carpark – people carrying picnic baskets and trolley’s of stuff into the grounds as well. Payed our deneiro, in we went – firstly checked out the gardens – was a trail you could follow from the brochure one received upon entering. Beautifully manicured gardens of course – had a full vegetable/herb area – even had cute little bushes in the shape of basil brushes or squirrels for the younger readers. Intricate patterned hedges in regal shapes only about a foot of the ground – which of course complete with fountain and a path leading to a bridge which crossed the moat/pond to the castle. Supposedly one of the better preserved slots in Denmark if not Europe- because of its beautifully preserved timber pile foundations which support this 5 storey slot . The water level of the moat must be kept up to a certain level to allow no air to reach the timber foundations, hence stopping the decay of the timber. Amazing foresight from the original builders back in the early 1800’s. The slot itself looked resplendent in its environment and congrats to its current and earlier counts and countesses for keeping the complex up to scratch continually for people like me to enjoy. Spent a good few hours wandering around the estate and numerous museums ( vintage cars and bikes) also vintage horse drawn carriages and olde style workshops etc. even had a tree top gantry path which a nervous Briar and I both tackled and conquered. Had a huge childrens playgroundand picnic area – and lotsa families havin picnic lunches dotted about the whole estate – cool stuff . Scored a waffle coned ice-cream on the way out – yummo. Back to Hugo and hit the trail again bound for a camp just off the highway near Roskilde.
Hard case camp ground – quiet in the sense of the number of campers in the campground and cabins – but as we were near a motorway junction the road noise levels were something else. – not as bad as our campground near Reggio Emilia in Italy though. We set Hugo up and as we arrived around 6.00pm we did a quick tour of the facilities.
Had an old hut style camp kitchen/diner come TV room –the type I remember on school camp treks as a kid in NZ, (felt like home to those of us still taking school camps to interesting places!) So we made ourselves at home had a big TV with cable TV channels – so as we drank our wine – had anti-pasto we watched some UK programmes – some weightwatchers program/ some BBC world/ some London Streetkids doco and to round it off whilst we ate dinner none other than that swearing pommie Gordon Ramsey in the USA – revisiting restaurants he had helped save from going under – was on telly back home last year – remember it well and also two of the restaurants he had helped and were both now very successful on his return.
One of the great things up here in Scandanavia weve found is that most of the camps have fairly good cooking facilities (normal for us in NZ – really not the norm here in Europe at all except this far north) – allowing us to save our precious propane gas supplies in Hugo (for the eastern block and frankly…the rest of the trip!) – for when we will need to use it. After 4 x D’s both hit the hay – I slept like a log and Briar rustled about all-night from the highway noise – so not so happy Briar next morning, but as she does, put on her usual cheerful/brave face for the day and even dorve into Copenhagen as we only had a 45 km drive to our next campstop their. Ishoj Strand Camping – had a good sized Shopping centre and train station within 10 minutes walk from the camp. Sweet.
The rain as it had done most of the morning started to pee down heavily again – so we stopped off at the shopping centre firstly to get some much needed funds from the bankautomat machine then onto the info. centre. A very good one for an outta city suburb and some groceries from our first ever visited Bilka store – much in the same vain as the big Carrefours & Eroski Hypermarket stores we encountered through Spain/Portugal and France. Had a Danish chap at the info. centre who spoke english very well and gave us all the guff on Copnhagen. Purchased a two-day train pass – so with Wallet full and the fridge full again we booked into our campground – obviously a stop-over for many campervanners like us – as their were a quite few around the campground.
The rain had stopped momentarily – so stay indoors type of arvo – caught up a bit on the Blog update and watched Dvd whilst Briar read a novel. Made meat patties with homemade gravy, spuds & fresh beans for a change over in the camp kitchen/diner which had a TV again which we domineered well I did – hey we were the first there and it wasn’t like I was watchin the Cartoon Network channel – BBC world news
We timed our prep & cooking perfectly as we were just finished cooking when the place all of a sudden got packed – also a lot of tenters here as well – A building becomes a welcome relief from the relentless noise of rain hittin ya tent I spose.
Who cared if any of them couldn’t speak English – I had the remote and that was that buddy. We managed to muscle our way in to the kitchen to do the dishes and then left them all to jostle amongst themselves for space in the kitchen and dining room. Some very boisterous surf lifesavers both male and female sought of took over the kitchen leavin little space or cooking elements for anyone else to use. (found out the next night I was over doing dishes that the surf lifersavers have an NZ rib boat that they love and respect!) Small world huh?...and it isn’t surf they work in…)After dodging raindrops on the way back to Hugo – we both headed for the showers – no coins or tokens needed – yeaayy.- just keep pushin the button. After showers and a cuppa – mapped out our plan of action for the morro and settled in with Dvd and novel for the night.
Woke to a much better morning looked like it was gonna be an allright day for doin the city visit thing – lotsa patches blue sky and sunlight – molto buono.
3 x S’s / brekkie and we were walking down to catch the 10.30am train into Copenhagen . It arrived on time as it should and no doubt as it does all the time – there are trains every 30 mins. throughout the day. Noticed the housing on the twenty minute train trip into the centro. very similar to outer suburbs in the nicer parts of Auckland. Lotsa ¼ acre pavlova paradise’s. Even the styles of housing similar – of course also many apartment complex’s also. Also a couple of massive power stations very close in the city – both thought that amazing to be so close. The sun had just about burnt of all the cloud now so it was becoming a beuat day.
First stop was to check out where to catch the Mike’s Bike tour for the following day – we so enjoyed the last one in Berlin – we decided to do another here in Copenhagen – the city of bikers – ( 1.5 million people & 2.5 million bikes in Copnehagen) and around five hundred get stolen every day. Bikers everywhere – so as a pedestrian you certainly have to have your wits about you around the streets. Found our bike tour spot OK- all good for tmoro – we then headed for the Danish Design Centre appropriately named DAC – had to circumnavigate around Tivoli gardens and Amusement park – much the same as Rainbows End in Auckland (but established in the 17 somethings…)– but four times as big and smack in the middle of town across the road from the central train station – so access to it easy for all.
The DAC had a lighting exhibit on – but sadly not much else for Briar (challenging the future use of lighting and electricity though, as well as light influencing behaviour so interesting stuff)– we then headed across the main canal to the Danish Architecture museum – which had an exhibit also on – Norman Foster (Pom) who designed the Reichstag in Berlin which we had visited amongst many other equally spectacular projects – completed – being built or still in the design process – evigorating stuff for me – even Briar showed some interest here.
She had sore legs so went up to the café for a coffee and a sit – which left me in the bookshop part of the museum – one of the more comprehensive I have ever in my life walked into – absolutely amazing – could have spent a day or two in their and could also have spent a small fortune on books and mags. But unfortunately when one is campervanning it is only the basic essentials one is privilegd to carry about Europe.
Joined Briar (I had found a secret little paradise…) for another coffee up on the third floor with a cantilevered little glass alcove overlooking the main canal – nice – watchin barge loads of tourists passing by – we were gonna be one of them before the days out.
After our brief stop on we marched again firstly to Vor Freslers Kirke – a church with an outside spiral staircase that weaves its way around the spire to nothing – supposed to get unreal views of Copenhagen skyline – Briar not game and 430 steps put me off also. Then headed to Christianborg Island zone – the parliamentary HQ and financial powerhouse of Denmark. Stopped by a fountain and a statue of a very famous Danish philosopher in a park in the middle of it all and had our premade rolls for lunch. Nice quiet relaxing place to chill out from the humdrum of the citybeat. Half an hour or so later we hit the trail again wandering passed the Old Stock Exchange, Kobenhavn Radhus/ the Black Diamond building – modern cutting edge building. We then headed up to the old part of Nyhavn where a canal comes of the main canal and where in days gone by in the 18th century was the vibe of Kobenhavn – even Hans Christian Andersen lived in a tiny 3rd storey flat overlooking Nyhavn canal – the sail ships used to tie up here also.
This was also in modern times where the canal cruises left from – we caught one which seemed to be a bit less crowded than earlier boats we ha spotted during the day.
The later afternoon was also turning out spot on for canal cruising – warm & calm.
Around an hour and a half cruising through the canals – always a great way to see a place and not so hard on the legs/back and muscles, ay. Cruised past some more modernist buildings along the main canal / the Royal palace / the infamous Little mermaid statue / and through the old docks and Christiansen areas of Kobenhavn. Both enjoyed that – also gave us a better insight into not only the history but the layout of the city a little better. Briar enjoying Copenhagen a lot more than Amsterdam I think. We then wandered through the shopping /pedestrian zone back to the train station passed all the designer stores – which were now closing being around 5.30pm –stopped for a few minutes to watch a street magician then caught the train back out to Ishoj – 10 minute stroll back to the camp – definitely barbi tonite with the weather being so nice – chilled with the usual rudimentary vino in tow and enjoyed a nice steak – even managed to do the dishes later with no one else in the kitchen – like us everyone outside enjoying the balmy evening – did head down to the main reception building to do some wifiing as we are constantly in contact with Heather Brown who has kindly donated her time and efforts into soughting out the old and finding new tenants for our home at 20 Kahira, as our tenants Warwick & Lorraine have found a more suitable long term tenancy – good luck to them. By time finished – and back to Hugo – about 11.30pm so a quick cuppa and bed – big bike tour day tmoro.
Woke to a superb morning – not a cloud in the sky – I think a first for us up here in Scandanavia – so after the 3 x S’s and a healthy carbo packed brekkie – we were on the 9.00am train this morning. Pulled into the Kobenhavncentral about 9.30pm – so strolled about for 20 minutes or so before soughting out a couple bikes for Mike’s Bike tour – OK bikes not the same and no way as good as the Berlin tour bikes – all the same they will have to do – we could also have them all day as opposed to just the tour.
Around 11.00am we all met Mike – around ten of us – good sized group – from all parts of the globe of course – interesting the people you meet on these tours. After all of us introducing ourselves to the group we hit the trail after a prep talk from Mike about the regs/rules and the tour . – even Mike said that this was as good as it gets weather wise in Copenhagen – unbelievably it rains 275 days of the year on average in Kobenhavn– not today though – not a rain cloud insight.
Well certainly not quite like the relaxed pace of the Berlin bike tour – you kept up or got left behind not even time for a snappie or two. We had around 8 or so assigned stops – each with a spiel from Mike – a historical insight into the past/present of the buidings/monuments/statues/areas etc.etc. along with Mikes own accounts & amusing little quirks and tales . Nearly four hours of exploring the streets / vibes / beat and innuendo’s of Kobenhavn we finished in the Christinasen Commune area where the
nucleus of the druggies hang out – which is also constantly raided so Mike told us.
After bidding adieu to most – we went our separate ways – several of us stopped for a bite (known in Denmark as an Open-sandwich) at a recommended café by Mike – so we joined an Irish chap named Mark also and his Croatian girlfriend who both lived in Canada and were here for a couple weeks in Scandanavia and a English chap from Bath who was living and teaching in a French school but was on school holidays of course and had been over for the weekend to see the Goteborg(Sweden) U2 concert and had shot across to Kobenhavn for a few days of sighseeing and us couple kiwis.
So sat and ate open sandwiches and chewed the fat – great to be able to sit down at a table with strangers and be able to enjoy each others company over a meal.
An hour or so later we did all part and bid adieu’s and bon journee’s to each other. We made a beeline for the Roseborg Slot and Gardens – then onto the Rundetarn which we walked up to the top to get a view over Kobenhavn’s skyline and finally Thordvalsens museum of statues ( stat-u-bros ) on Christianborg island. Thordvalsen himself was Denmarks most famous sculptor an also well known throughout Europe in the late 18th century– this museum which he donated to Kobenhavn city had mostly works and sculptures he had created – a few rooms of paintings – the room with Jesus Christ and the twelve Apostles was pretty awesome – after a flying visit through the museum back to the cycle centre to drop off the bikes walked to the train station and jumped on our train almost immediately. Another fantastique sightseeing day in Kobenhavn.
No barbi tonite – used the rest of our mince with patties for hamburgers tonite. We did have the kitchen and dining room/TV to ourselves – bonus a couple dishwashers about it. Both had wifiing stuff again to do – so dishes/showers then headed over to the reception building again – good strong wifi signal here. Did our stuff – finished abit earlier tonite – looks like good news about 20 Kahira – Heather has found a suitable tenant by the looks interested in movin straight away – meeting them this weekend – fingers crossed- onya girl. Did watch a Dvd before hittin the hay .
Yes , again we woke to another splendid morning – a few clouds about – had a bit of sleep in this morning – feelin it after our big bike tour of yesterday – burnt a few calories. Packed up Hugo and hit the trail north of Kobenhavn – towards Frederikshavn where another famous slot with a moat and awesome gardens around it.
It was also Frederik the 4th’s summer palace hence the name – Frederikshavn Slot.
Had a good mosy about the exterior and the beautifully manicured gardens – complete with own lake – chapel and guesthouse in the grounds. Indulgence to the max. Once again – on them , certainly makes it great for tourists like us to visit. Also did a drive by Frendensborg slot as well – not as impressive as Frederikshavn.
Our designated campground very close to the ferry in Helsingborg was full so we carried on further north around the coast past Holbaek to a nice four star camp Dronnigen. A very nice camp with excellent facilities which equally equated to the bill the next day when we checked out – still the warm and balmy weather – we made a beeline for the strand (beach) where even Briar dipped more than her feet in. The strand was chocka as one would expect on the last week officially of school holidays – families and kids out enjoying the sun and the sea ( can’t say surf -cause they don’t have any ) spent a few hours relaxing / reading and working on our tans – both showered back at camp – fired up the barbi – and chilled for the evening eating/drinking & listening to Duffy and Gabriella Chilmi. Lifestyles of the average and not so famous huh. We both had an interrupted sleep – due to a couple of loudmouthed giggly girls carrying on most of the night and early morning as well. Rather surprised not to spot remnants of her body lying about somewhere as we checked out the next morning – which happened to be another glorious Scandanavian day .
After the usual morning routine we packed up and checked out of Dronnigen and headed back down the coast to Helinsborg – where we had a little fun trying to locate the ferry terminal – which we found after a few missed turns. Paid our $250 krona and sat in the queue with several other campervans and cars ready to be ushered onto the ferry . Took a piccie of Hugo with Briar in the drivers seat while we waited. On yer girl. (Alternate each day with the driving so we get a rest, but also have a chance each to get a good look around at the scenery…and very occasionally for me …some zzzz’s if it is raining and boring motorway!!!Ouch!) Very fast turnaround ferries – 7/8 minutes later we were on board and heading up the top to check out the view as we headed across another border into our 16th country . A quick 20 minute ferry ride that coast a third of going over the connecting bridge n tunnel arrangement down in Copenhagen.
Adieu Denmark – Hej Sweden
So, will catch ya’s all again in soon in the next update
Ciao for now.