November Update 2009

1. Spice markets, Istanbul, Turkey
2. Streets of Naphlio, Peloponese Island, Greece
3. Briar, MC, Fiona and Kane - sharing home made pizza in Hugo, Kavala, Greece
4. Sunset from our balcony, Fira, Santorini, Greek Islands
5. Oia village, Santorini, Greek Islands
6. Monastery at Meteora, Greece
7. Kane ,Fiona ,MC , Anne , Mike camping at Anzac Cove, Gallipoli, Turkey
8. Briar at the Epidavros Amphitheatre, Peloponese Island, Greece
9. Briar, Cameron and MC - old town streets of Split, Croatia
10. Briar & MC pictureque Hvar town behind, Croatia
11. Blue Mosque , Istanbul, Turkey
12. Fisherman at sunset, Avyalik, Turkey
13. Anzac Cove. Gallipoli, Turkey
15. Anna, Mike, Briar, Kane, Fiona and me Standing in front of the Haghia Sofia mosque in Istanbul, Turkey
16. Acropolis in Athens through Hadrians gate


November 2009 Update

Great to catch up with some new found friends and fellow travellers again.
We awoke to a greyish cloudy day – no rain but plenty of ominous signs. Decided to head into the wharf area at Pireaus to change our ferry crossing date back to Italy –
Will head back a week earlier – caught the 845 bus across the road from the camp – bit like playing Russian roulette crossing, even with pedestrian crossings, Greece same as in Italy don’t mean a thing.
About a ¾ hour drive down allsorts of one-way lanes and back streets. Getting around in Athens in any mode of transport is diabolical- not only are the drivers crazy but the roading and roading system develops within itself chaos. The housing also is the same as the roading system – diabolical – numerous unfinished housing all over the place, nothing uniform or any thought to town planning – urban sprawl at its maddest. But hey that’s maybe what makes Athens – Athen’s – not for me – too much disorder. Will enjoy the 5 or so days that I’m here though – that will be enough. The bus stops right outside the ferry terminals (where you catch the boats/ships to the Greek islands, Crete, Turkey etc.etc.) . Found the Anek Lines offices – changed our dates – no problemo – took all of 15 minutes. Back to the Pireaus metro station caught the train back into Athens centro or Syntagynatos place – where we also searched for the Fantasy Travel offices to book in a small Greek Island jaunt for five days.
Found fantasy travel – and who should we bump into again – Kane & Fiona also checkin out a greek island jaunt. We both ended up booking on the same ferry couple days later – but they were only staying 3 nights at Santorini – we decided to do 5 nights – 3 nights at Santorini and 2 nights at Paros. Around 40 minutes later we walked out with all the ferry tickets and hotel documentation – Yahoo – Greek Islands here we come. $600 euro for both of us including ferries, transfers & pick-ups at each port and brekkie included each hotel.
So both feeling rather smug we set of for some lunch in downtown Plaka – one of the older and very touristy areas of Athens – the usual cobbled lanes and alleys – our greek travel agent at fantasy travel told us of a neat café to check for lunch – after some meandering and backtracking we managed to find it OK. Cute local little café called Mesina – not the most impressive menu I’ve seen on me travel. A few locals here though, must be OK.
Had a mixed mese type plate with Greek coffee – more like an espresso shot but with a cm of coffee sludge in the bottom ( Everywere in Greece the coffee is bloody expensive ) – ridiculously so. Briar had a chicken dish – average.
Wandered through some more lanes and alleys packed with souvenirs. Stopped for some meat for a Barbie on the way back to camp. Had previously invited Kane & Fioan over for a Barbie. When we got back to camp had some new neighbours next site over ayoung couple he Kiwi (Hawkes bay boy - Steve) she from Canada (Sara) – doing there European tour after a 18 month working stint in London. So invited them over to join us also. Nothing like a few kiwis & ozzies around a camp fire, even if it is a charcoal Barbie on legs. Off course the wine – antipasto and the bullshit flowed most of the night as it does – always interesting to hear of others travel stories and adventures.
Our young pommie couple from next door arrived home later and also joined in for a couple bevies before bedtime. The night air down to around 12/13 at night – just on the edge for some to be braving it. A great night.
The next morning back to rainy – cloudy day – a few non-rain patches – did some Wifiing – good free signal from campervan – then headed into town and check out the Athens Archaelogical museum – caught the 16B bus to our metro ride out to Viktoria stop. We popped up outta the underground around midday and spied a Souvlaki diner – fresh kebabs being grilled on the lengthy 3 metre long indoor barbie – once again place packed with young locals – good sign – weren’t disappointed excellent tender kebabs with chips lemon and bread -$10.00 euros for us both. The rain as it does started as we started to wander around in circles looking for the museum, extreme lack of signage to sights – after an hour or so with a couple of young Italian girls also looking for it – we found it – but don’t ya know it – closes daily except Mondays at 3pm – it was now 1.45pm – still we raced around looking at more amazing Mycanaen, Eygptian and some roman artefacts, stone/marble statues and some very impressive gold masks/jewellery/coins – amazing to think that they were producing metals not just gold – but also other metal composites for tools, weaponry and protective clothing, etc. 5000-6000 BC. We were hurriedly ushered out I might add, at least five minutes before 3pm. (some things are done RIGHT on time…)
Rain bucketing down again as we left – made a beeline for the metro – back out to our bus stop – tried a different route – not a good idea – both got a bit wet waiting for our bus – luckily we had our coats so managed to stay a bit dry. Back at camp around 5pm. Talk about bumping into people – John and Tracey – who we met on the ferry across to Greece were parked up opposite us . Pulled in around an hour ago. So had a wee chat to them,
Swapped more info. etc. told them we were heading out to the islands tmoro for a few days – told them also about fantasy travel – who they were also keen to check out about the islands also. Quieter night – Kane & Fiona came over to discuss plans for our early start inda morning- 6.00am start – they still had to pick up their ferry tickets.
Dinner – Wifi-ing– Dvd and then bed – Tracey popped over for another chat in between.
Up at sparrows fart – well before even – stars still out – at least there were bloody stars and not greyish skies above. (whu do we do this to ourselves – it really is hard work!) Quick showers/ quick brekkie – packed bags and off to round up the other two – who had slept in off course – still we were waiting for a bus 5 minutes later across the other side of the road from the camp. First one along a A15 – sweet – do us – surprisingly busy for that time of the morning – Athens like most big cities in the world (this one has as many people as whole of NZ) it never stops. Then did the metro thing out to Pireaus port, where all the ferries leave to different islands – etc. – couple of passenger liners in docked.
Finally it got lighter and the sun poked its head up as we picked up Kane & Fi’s tickets and boarded our ferry – decked out rather nicely – it would want to be - 8 hours on this bucket could tend to be rather boring otherwise. The other two wuffed into some coffee and brekkie – since not time before we left. Thirty minuto’s later we were off – amazing the speed these boats- I should say ships get up to so quickly and the manouverabilty Trev – unbelievable.
Once we got out to open seas – had a fair old 2/3m swell rolling even this size ship about abit. Briar not feeling so well – she headed up for some fresh air on the back upper sundeck. Rather crowded inside so headed up to keep her company, ended up staying there the duration of the trip. (am only okay in the fresh air on lumpy seas – even not so lumpy actually…)
The sun shone all the way out with a few showers over the horizons, still that European haze around though. Stopped in Paros firstly , then Naxos and then Ios before pulling into our stop Thira or Santorini as we foreigners call it. Got stuck into a few Heineken’s along the way. We pulled into the entrance of the harbour or caldera of Thira Island around 3.30pm as the sun was casting its light across the supremely white toned buildings of Thira- very impressive – a good 15 minutes to the port from their – long and narrow island – could see Oia first on top of the cliffs and then further on Fira – magnifique – Buildings hugging and clinging to cliffs with shear 200m drops straight into the Aegean sea. As we docked – mayhem again, as we disembarked – greek orderly fashion – yeah right – scramble for the numerous waiting taxi’s and passenger vans to transport the next wave of tourists up the cliffs – spotted our transfer chap. Yelled at the other two, will text and meet for dinner later on – cool banana’s.
Zigzagged our way up to the top and then along the clifftops – toward Fira village or town really – largest of the towns on Santorini. Very rocky barron landscape – even the grapevines grow along the earth as opposed to up or on vines – to goddam windy for that. One thing they don’t tell ya about in the brochures – Santorini very much like Mt. Maunganui – bloody windy . Still as we neared our hotel – could see we were in for a spectacular Santorini sunset – fantastique.
After 20 mins. or so wandering around the hotel – only guests for this night maybe – our host finally showed and let us into our 1 bedroom apartment – right at the top – with amazing views off the Caldera – ( will explain what the Caldera is – a pile of obsidian or similar rock – spewed out of the mouth of an active volcano (Thira) thousands of years ago which obviously cooled when it hit the cool sea. Leaving a small inner island in the middle of the crater.
Had a supermarket just down the road – shot down picked up a few necessary evils or supplies as I call them (Vino and chocclate). Then we sat on our deck out of the wind and admired the stunning views and our first Santorini in fact Greek Island sunset whilst sipping a vino. After watching the sun set and showers we headed into the centre of Fira – about 500 metres walk and met up with Kane and Fiona – did a bit of wandering and checking out a few restaurants – finally settled on a reasonably priced and quiet traditional taverna – couple old ducks runnin the joint – who we affectionately called momma – around mid seventies and who could speak a little english – on ya girlfriend.
Am sometimes bewildered by the amount and age of some people that speak the queens English throughout Europe. We each ordered our drinks – large Heinies for the boys and ½ litre carafes for the womenfolk. We tucked into a few before we thought about getting around to eating. Caught momma’s eye. Il menu signora. The menu was as hardcase as momma – she gave us a menu and then told us can have this, this or this. So we had this,this and this. Fava beans and bread – new experience – but warm and delicious. Fried tomato balls – more like fritters but equally delicious. Pork chop & Santorini fried potatos x 3 and one pasta. We never ordered or payed for desert but were given a yummy homemade chocolate cake with ice-cream and honey drizzled over – perhaps because we were her only clients for the night – maybe she took a shine to us – who knows ? We did walk outta there rather full, merry and content – we even tipped her $7.00 euros – we were that impressed with both the food and the price . On ya momma. Perhaps back for the mousaka tmoro nite – she did say she was cookin a fresh batch.
Anyhows we waddled back down into the town centre – Kane had spotted a Beer haus bar earlier – so we piled in there rather nosily – only one local to put up with us. Our well rounded and cheerful barmen Stelios lined a few beers up for the lads and some cocktails for the ladies. We also found out that complimentary cocktails shots free with every drink bought. So shots all round – even Stelios joined in. Had a very good sound system that suddenly seemed to play predominately English music whilst we were there. On ya Stelios.
Five drinks and several shots/ cocktails later the dance floor got a hammering. Fiona had to be picked up off the floor twice – not soft landings either – she’ll feel that in the morning. It was only around 11.15pm when we staggered out into the cool night air. Great night – headed our separate ways to our hotels. Rendevous tmoro at 9-10.00am at the quad bike hire shop. We will all be a bit worse for wear I’m sure.

Well we all made it to the bike shop only about 20mins late. The sun was shining along with a couple of bruises on Fiona, haha – bit of breeze though. Sorted out the paperwork, handed over the dosh. $25.00 euros for a day – bring back tmoro at 10.30am – a quick intro on the 150cc quads, the sheila’s climbed on the back and we were off like bats outta hell – not quite , but it felt like it until the sheila’s told us to slow down. Girls – no sense of fun or dare.
After 5 minutes of getting used to our new found toys we headed out to the northern part of Santorini Island and the village of Oia – this is the village that all the stunning domed blue roofs and glistening white walls, Mediterranean sea in the backround, sunsets etc.etc. that the travel brochures all have in them. The road you travel to get there is pretty barren and bare to get there – but the island is a volcano rim in a sense – so you don’t get too much growing here. We did pass a large terraced area on the backside of the caldera – it slopes gently toward the ocean – unlike the dramatic cliffs of the Caldera side. You could walk from Fira to Oia (around an hour & 1/2 walk ) but much more fun on a quad bike.
We arrived into Oia’s main square – where the continual bus pilgrimage ferrying cruise ship passengers from port to the sights and back again. We awoke to two ships
anchored in front of the caldera this morning, small ferry passenger boats – going back and forth with tourists. If ya look past the many souvenir shops lining the numerous lanes and alleys and the bus loads of predominately American tourists – you can see the beauty of the place. The houses literally cling to the cliffs – everyone different with its own difference – even the colours were not just cobalt blue and vivid white – there were very earthy and some vibrant Mediterranean colours spattered amongst the white. We parked our quad’s and wandered through some of the many alleys – looking for that classic Santorini shot. – almost every second corner offered it.
It is pretty stunning and you can see why this particular village is the most photographed of any in the Greek Islands. Of course the camera was clicking like mad.
Another big tick of the bucket list for us both. Village life here is pretty slow apart from the continual tourist bombardment – but I would also say it is 90% of the economy of Santorini Island – so the locals I guess don’t mind.
We even got a pic of a donkey carry sacks of concrete mix to a building site – donkeys being the only mode of transporting goods up, down and through these alleys. We were fortunate to have had a clear sunny day to witness this spectacular little clifftop delight and one which will live in my memory bank forever. Around an hour later we left the magic of Oia and we were off roaring down the road again along the back coast road – more exploratory parts of the Island to navigate.
Like a lot of Santorini and Greece come to think of it – numerous unfinished houses – some had obviously not been worked on for months – some years by the look of it. Stopped back at Fira – scored a Gyros each – bit like a doner kebap form Dimitri’s. Yummo at $2.00 euros each. Also shared a pizza pide. Had lunch at our apartment overlooking the caldera, then hit the road again – headed out to the black sand beach of Perissa and then Red beach . had to fill up the quad at a petrol station - $3.40 euro – no worries. We came across another quad with a couple of Puerto Rican girls doing the same as us – touring the island. Joined us at Cape Akrotiri to watch what we thought would have been a classic Santorini sunset – but not to be – distant cloud on the horizon put paid to that – still we had cheese,wine and crackers and good conversation which more than made up for a non spectacular sunset. It was dark by the time we made it back to Fira- showed our Puerto Rican friends to Dimitri’s restaurant in town – where we ordered takeout for ourselves – a big day touring after a big nite out the previous night had left everyone a little jaded. We all headed back to our hotels – with our take-outs and chilled in front of the square box for the night – lights out early.
Slower start today- awoke to a cloudy and really windy morning – hard-boiled egg, ham & cheese toasted, orange juice and sweet greek coffee – our free brekkie each morning – only one real channel to watch unless you know greek – BBC world – good to catch up with world news. Noticed the two cruise ships had left during the night and had been replaced by another bigger one.
As we were returning our quads back – ran into John,Tracey and their two girls again – on the prowl for a couple quads also – we arranged to have dinner with them later that night at Dimitri’s restaurant. Small world ain’t it – they were not sure they would make it to the greek islands and here they were. We wandered some more around the back alleys and lanes of Fira – very tourist orientated again like Oia – but once again is their main revenue source. Briar bought some silver earings, I handed out the money and all to regular scenario. Met up with Kane and Fiona for lunch – had a bite on another Gyros from a d ifferent restaurant – but equally as good as Dimitri’s, bid them farewell – they were heading back to Athens – we were going to catch up with them in a week or so and head into Turkey together.
Quiet afternoon on the deck back at the hotel reading – caught up on some blogging- a bit of TV – watched the Kane & Fi & the ferry leave. We caught up later with John, Tracey and their two daughters for dinner at Dimitri’s restaurant again – he was impressed with our bringing clients to his establishment – he supplied us with free house wine for the evening. OK dinner – good to catch up with John & Tracey and hear about there life etc. back in NZ. Bid Dimitri and the Fabers farewell, may not run into them again. Chilled in front of the square box rest of the evening.
Better looking morning sun shining but wind factor still there. Slow start to the morning – more blogging and reading, did some more exploratory wandering the streets of Fira – scored some greek sweet delights to have with some leftovers for lunch.
Lunched on our deck whilst admiring our last views of the Caldera – Were picked up by our taxi driver around 3pm – waited around the port till 4pm – ferry 30 minutes late. Had a 4 hour trip back towards Paros – our next stop for a couple of days. Hung out on the deck again – then headed inside to some air seats – supposed to pay extra for – Feasted on Goody’s ( burger & chips) Greece’s version of Makka’s.
Pulled into Paros around 8pm- picked up by our taxi transfer – bout 1 km drive up to our High Mill Motel – spent the night reading and watched a old Colombo movie on the box. Awoke to a very grim, dull and wet morning – so lounged around in bed – till decided to head downstairs for our complimentary brekkie – rather a joke more than a brekkie – greek yoghurt, bread , cheese slices, jam & honey satchets and coffee. Back up to the room – more reading and relaxing – around midday the the rain stopped and the clouds rolled on by and the sun came out – we headed down to the harbour waterfront to check out the village and port of Paros. Strolled through some more alleys – being a Sunday most shops were closed – so nice and quiet.
Visited the Panagia Ekatontapyliani church – impressive for a 3rd century building. Had a very good Caeser salad at the Love Café – one of best salads I’ve had in Europe so far.
Wandered back to Motel along the waterfront promenade then back through the town – spotted a restaurant for dinner later that night not to far from the motel. Did some wifiing on the deck – watched some TV – strolled down to the Aroma restaurant for dinner. Only diners all night and we feasted on freshly cooked greek cuisine. Not to badly priced either - $ 45.00 euros for the two of us. Three courses including wine and coffee. Another chilled evening reading and watching the box. Another 70’s movie – can’t even remember what it was.
Up and it in the morning – 10.30 am ferry to catch – down for the brekkie at least they had cereal this morning – ended up chatting to a Canadian couple doing their tour, swapped emails/ blog sites etc as ya do. Nice fine morning a little breeze – not like Santorini though – relatively calm four crossing back to Pireaus (Athens) .
Once again hung out on the back for awhile, then ventured inside and scored some air seats, which ya supposed to pay extra for, nobody came and checked or kicked us out. Did some blogging while Briar had a snooze. Back in Pireaus port and Athens the mad hustle and bustle of a city greeted us. Metro and bus back to Athens camping and Hugo. Both enjoyed our Greek Island sojourn and both glad we did it even though it wasn’t in the height of summer.
Unpacked and headed back down the main drag to Carrefours to stock up, as we had left nothing in the fridge or cupboards. Another mad dash across the road to the bus stop – risk your life doing it. Did a load of washing and settled in for night – more wifiing – reading and Dvd before lights out.

Woke to a very bleak day – some drizzle about – some how managed to get our washing air dryed and not to damp from the drizzle – had put them under a semi style thatched roof, did the trick. As the morning went on the clouds scattered and the sun shone through, decided to do the Acropolis thing today – so the risk your own life dash across the main drag – caught the bus and then the metro again to the assigned Acropolis stop.
Back into sunlight again headed up the hill – not before paying $12.00 euros each. Leisurely wander up the hill past some more ruins/rocks really shaped like they fitted in some structure once upon a time – fallen over from earthquakes. There was another very impressive amphitheatre which is still used today on special occasions. Then up the steps into the Buele gate entry – not to bad a climb for oldies.
The temple of Zeus – looking resplendent in the sunlight and scaffolding – have I mentioned before that no matter where ya go in Europe to view some monument/ ruins/ church/ cathedral/ historic site – nine out of ten of them have some form of scaffolding or hessian covering them and not just on the outside – several we have visited have the same inside. One has to look past these elements and visualise back in the days when these magnificient structures were at their glorious best.
Have to admit that something almost 2800 years old and was still standing is very impressive given our record of the past 20 years or so in the NZ building scene.
A lot of the frieze panels displaying intricate marble statues and scenes had been stripped of for preservation purposes and were housed next door in the brand new Acropolis Museum- an impressive looking building itself – wonder if that will be still standing in another 2800 years.
Wandered around the Acropolis hilltop admiring not just the temples and ruins, Erechthelon temple but also the views across Athens city. Took snappies as ya do along with hundreds of other tourists. We then headed down the hill to the Roman Agora and then the Ancient Agora – more ruins and one very well preserved temple of Hephaestus, probably the best preserved of any we have seen in Greece so far. Also from down here one could get a very good view of the Acropolis hilltop. Certainly would rate up there as one of the more impressive sights we have been fortunate enough to lay our eyes on physically. We then wandered a few blocks to look at the Temple of Olympian Zeus – not much left standing here I’m afraid – 7 columns only of once were 80 and the biggest in Ancient Athena.
Then onto the modern day stadium which were used in the recent Athens Olympics – is still used today for some events. – mainly marathons. From there we wandered back towards Acropolis through Hadrians Gate and back to Acropolis museum – did stop for some lunch at a walkway café – authentic greek – very plain, boring kai at tourist prices.
At least the very impressive Acropolis museum after lunch with its $1.00 euro entry fee more then made up for it. It also bucketed down whilst we were eating our lunch – so that at least was good timing – as we hadn’t brought our umbrellas – as the day was looking very good – but the wind can whip in the rain filled cumulus clouds fairly quickly. The museum is arranged in a modern day approach so that it emulates the great temple of Zeus – and had mirrored the temple with columns and the original frieze panels and east and western gable ends of the original temple – of course they weren’t completely intact, but one got the idea. Had many other artefacts, statues, jewellery, coins and numerous other objects of daily use and life from those times past. Both stopped and relished a coffee at the museum coffee – best one so far in Greece and the cheapest – Greek coffee is the most expensive in Europe.
All this sightseeing had worn us out and it was around 4.30pm – so caught the metro and bus back to camping Athens. Both showered – early dinner some more wifiing , Dvd and bed.
Woke to an allright morning – in fact one of the better we have woken to in Athens, time to move on today – up earliesh – showered brekkied and packed Hugo up – did the dump and fill up the water tank before checking out. Left a short note on the Fabers campervan with me card and email details.
On the road around 10.00am – managed to do a U-turn on our infamously dangerous road and circumnavigate our way east on the main motorway without to much fuss or the help of Delilah ( who has now been in the safe for nearly three weeks now ).
The countryside not quite what we both expected – some places rocky, barren and little vegetation – typically mediteranean as we expected , but then also some very flat, green and cultivated fields much like northern Europe, numerous conifers of soughts and the ever present olive trees throughout Greece, there were also many half finished homes and buildings along the way. Easy drive through the guts and then along the coast to a place called Stylida and camping Interstation – one of few still open – very few campgrounds open this time of year in Greece.
Stopped for lunch in a small town along the motorway – did pick up some supplies and then headed down to their waterfront promenade – very deserted , but a nice spot for lunch with views across the sea. Once again many half finished holiday homes on the waterfront, many not even lived in by the looks.
An hour later we pulled into our designated campground. Checked in and found a place right down at the front with views back across the sea from the other side from where we had lunch. Could even see some snow capped mountains in the distance. Made quite a picture – thatched umbrellas, green grass, ships docked in the bay with snow capped mountains behind, a real mxture of contrasts. Only one other couple tenting booked in here besides us for the night.
Ok facilities – did end up with a cold shower in the morning – didn’t work the token machine right I guess – at least Briar managed a warm one. They did have cooking facilities where I whipped up a stir fry dinner – delicioso. Some reading – Dvd and lights out. Both slept very well with the new found silence a very big contrast from Camping Athens and the noisy main drag that never let up all night long.
We both crashed early enough to wake early the next morning and didn’t dawdle around – on the road again by 9.30am – filled up the diesel tanks – good price 0.94 cents per litre – haven’t seen prices like these since Spain almost. Destination somewhere near Katerina – Peiria region today – Briars turn to drive mostly motorways – some mountainous stuff early on before we got back near the coast again – had several toll booths to pass through – got a bit hacked off after one stretch where we payed twice within 25 km, the poor toll booth chap wore my wrath.
Onwards we pressesd however making huge inroads into our km’s, n fact we arrived near our destination by 12.30pm – quick decision made to keep on going to another campground another 200k’s further around the coast, Kavala a seaside resort past Thessaloniki. We stopped for gas and lunch at a little known village Profitis just off the main motorway about 25k’s past Thessaloniki on the second lake. $0.93 centos a litre – so filled it right up – also purchased a fresh Pide ( loaf of bread) and some hand carved luncheon of the roll by a dear little old lady in her small superette next door to the petrol station.
Stopped on a side road with views of the lake and many farmers on their tractors hoeing their fields (very flat area). Had to move slightly to let one pass us heading home for lunch no doubt. Only a couple K’s away from a motorway connection which we drove onto after lunch and made a beeline for Kavala, pulled into their around 4pm – spotted a small Carrefours – restocked on a few supplies.
Had some yeast that needed using – along with some olives and anchovies we had bought in Spain nearly 7/8 months ago, decided to make home made pizza’s. Onto our campground at Neo Kavala a mini version of Kavala and camping Alexandros – only ones again to camp – found a beachfront spot – managed to find a plug hole to get electricity and settled in for the arvo/night.
Big day driving around 360k’s – well done Briar – sterling effort girl. We also decided to give Kane and Fiona a call – as we said we would try and catch up before we crossed the Turkish border and cross together. Had tried earlier in the day to text them but got no answer. Anyhow we rang them and got an answer immediately – low and behold they too were in Kavala at another campground further back down the coast – they ended up coming up to our camp half an hour later, shared some pizza, several bottles of vino and numerous laughs with us.
Great to catch up with them again , I think they were as glad to see us as we were them. Travelling this time of year can be lonely as there are usually only yourselves in the campgrounds and even sightseeing is very quiet. So always good to catch up with fellow wanderers from down under. They even ended up camping the night at our camp, before heading back to the other campground next morning to pick up their passports and then meet us again before heading onto Alexandroupoli – next campground stop before crossing the Turkish border.
So in tandem we hit the motorway again without to much fuss. Very flat countryside here – motorway cruising – easy drive 160k’s or so – rocked into Alexandroupoli around 1pm. A very heavy army influence in town –an army base here – spotted several rows of tanks, trucks and armoured vechiles lined up around the bases on both sides of the road as you enter Alexandroupoli. Kanes satnav lead us down some narrow streets towards our campground past a funeral – I’m sure we weren’t supposed to be in this street.
Finally made it down to the beachfront road where we located our camp – booked in and set up – almost beachfront. OK camp with good facilities and big concreted sites. Had a bite to eat for lunch – Kane & Fiona headed into town for a stroll – we did as well later on – found an internet café – an hour on interent doing some much needed catching up and soughting some financial stuff. Then wandered thorugh town – scored a few supplies ( Barbie tonite for dinner). Then walked back along the waterfront and then the beach back to the campground – a leisurely 3 k stroll – as the sun was setting.
Once back grabbed the camera to take some serene sunset shots. Set up the Barbie – had an English couple for new neighbours behind us on a site - chatted to them for a bit – ended up inviting them over to share our barbie for dinner as well. They were at the beginning off their journey – travelling in an old Camel trophy Land Rover – has the fold out tent permanently fixed on the roof – Mike & Ann ( bit of a gadget man – Mike – had all the nick knacks you could think off and then some) .
Still they were very well set up for there trek across the Middle East and then on down to Australia and NZ. Perfect vehicle for off road venturing through the outbacks of the Middle East and Australia for sure. Hopefully they will call in around this time next year and stay for a bit. Gave them me card and contact details.
Another successful Barbie – good food, good vino, great conversation even if the temp. down around a chilly 8 degrees – kept the Barbie firing with plenty branches / twigs from the campground. Even the sight of flame has that warm and comforting feeling even if you can’t feel it. Shared more stories and bullshit as you do, - Looks like we might have another vehicle joining our convoy across the border tomorrow.

As the vino ran out and the cold finally drove everyone of to bed – the evening ended.

Awoke to a sunny clear morning – perfect for crossing the border – Mike & Ann a little worried about this crossing ( green cards and their pommie passports) – no worries we said. After showers and brekkie – we all packed up and headed outta the camp about 10.30am – first port of call a fuel stop for all . Then a food supplies stop at a local supermarket on the outskirts of Alexandroupoli toward Turkey.
We hit the motorway – around 80 k’s or so to the border – our convoy would have looked rather priceless as we left Alexandroupoli – a Ford transit pop up, a Camel trophy Land rover and a 6 berth- 6 ½ metre Riviera Campervan – a sight indeed. There is something comforting about travelling en mass with new found aquaintances in unchartered territory. Had a bit of detour of the main motorway for the last twenty or k’s before we hit the border crossing. No worries leaving the Greece checkpoint –
Stopped at a duty free and food stop for toilet break and coffee fix. Browsed the duty free store . Mike bought some Camel cigarettes– case of emergency– bribing material.
Then across the bridge and river ( sentry guard posts – with both Greece & Turkey guards within 30 metres or so of each other and flags on the same bridge waved to them all as we passed – big smiles – wonder who built the bridge ) then once on the other side the fun began. no.1 checkpoint gate – passports out – welcome Anzacs – onto next checkpoint no.2 – passports out again – stamp this time – onto next checkpoint no.3 – require passport- vehicle registration papers and green card or insurance documentation. Mike & Ann purchased a green card before the next checkpoint – we thought our insurance was sufficient and Kane & Fi had none really to speak off.
So next checkpoint Mike & Ann breezed through with all the right paperwork , Briar & I had everthing but the right insurance – Green card needed still – so back to the shop to buy a greencard insurance slip ( $68.00 euros later) Kane & Fiona also bought a green card ( when entering Turkey you either need to buy this card at the crossing or inform your insurance agent that you will be needing one to cross the border and they will send you a separate green card form for the crossing) – so once back at checkpoint 3. No problem for Briar and I – but problem for Kane & Fiona – temporary registration form not acceptable to customs – they had just bought the green card insurance and swapped over monies in Turkish lira – but could not get there vehicle into Turkey – they went back for refund on the green card and swapped their money back – No Turkey for them it seems – they were both gutted – we offered them to join us on tour through Turkey and leave their camper back at Alexandroupoli campground – meant we had to turn around and go back – the other possibility was the compound nearby that looked as though you could leave vehicles in store.
So back to checkpoint no.3 to ask about leaving vehicle in storage – no go – so pleaded with customs officer about the temporary rego documents which eventually he agreed to let pass – excellent news for Kane & Fi – but they then had to go back and buy the green card insurance form again – big fuss .
Still they finally got their passports stamped and vehicle clearance – then had our vehicles given the thorough search through.
Passports signed then onto checkpoint no.4 – passports out again for last stamp and finally after 1 ½ of mucking about the convoy was finally heading down the motorway again but this time in Turkey. Pulled over for a big breath sigh of relief and all that and to debrief on our next destination, then back on the trail again.
Couple hours later we drove through Gelibolu ( Gallipoli) onto Eceabat and down to the Gallipoli national park region and ANZAC cove. It was around 4pm now and the sun was setting – giving another spectacular sunset – we parked our vans/campers in a U-shape to give us a nice little protected campsite from the road – we were in a parking lot right on the beach – next to a jetty and a memorial to the fallen. An ideallic free-camping spot to watch the sunset and fire up another Barbie/ camp fire for the night – set about getting extra pine cones from the pine trees about and some dry twigs and branches lying about.
The Barbie/campfire roared all night thanks to Kane ( pyromaniac I think) kept it well stocked all night – no one was complaining once again the heat radiated and the sight of flame always gives one the feeling of warmth. The stars as well as a different looking Milky way with its dusty sprinkle shining bright in the night sky – we also had a ¾ moon to boot. Again the food,vino and chatter broke the almost serene silence of our posy – only 2 cars passed us by the whole night. We all slept well after our trying border crossing day – tmoro visiting Anzac cove and its surrounds.
The next morning was a bit cloudy – but lotsa blue sky around , a good kind of day to visit this Gallipoli penninusla, not quite as good as yesterday but not raining either. After a slowish start for all, we finally got moving around 10.00am, Kane the only one with enough balls to go for a refreshing dip in the sea ( bet he didn’t have much in the way of balls when he got outta the water but)
Firstly we drove along the Anzac coast road – past the Australian and New Zealand beach landing memorials – then a British memorial – then stopped at Shrapnel valley – no doubt appropriately named back in the day – then at the official Anzac Cove memorial site – where the annual Anzac day and remembrance ceremonies take place. Then along to another couple of cemeteries – took piccies along the stops. One can only imagine the hell that these guys endured for nine months fighting over this patch of coast. The terrain being both moonlike and offering little protection in any direction. As we drove further around this national park and then startes to see more and more cemteries not just the Anzac and british – but also the Turkish memorials and cemteries – they lost as many as the allied forces did during this nine month campaign. We had the best guide we could ask for with Anne reading out all of the relevant info from her trusty Turkey bible.
Lone pine tree hill etc.etc. It is a compassionate thing the Turks have done in this National park, not just to commemorate their own who had died here, but also the sons of mothers from afar who had fallen on these distant shores.
I think everyone of us visiting these memorials both reflected and acknowledged the valour and bravery of the young men of both sides.
We carried on driving to Eceabat where we stopped for lunch at a waterfront restaurant – hard case they had chaps literally out in the middle of the street flagging us down and showing us where to park in front of their restaurants. Of course this is lean season for them – so we had several restauranteurs bargaining for our trade.

Finally settled on one ( had four to chose from). We all went to the same one – all ordered Souvalik’s of various type’s ( meat souvalaki’s) came with lotsa bread and yummy fresh salad. Had a mixed souvalaki – several types of meat all grilled with some rice/ fries and a warmed spinach/feta mix. All very traditional Turkish and not bad for the $14.00 turkish lira ( $6.00 euro ) including water each we paid.
After lunch stopped at a sports store along the road where Kane purchased a fishing rod and some hooks for $8.00 euros. Briar and I bought a beanie to keep our ears warm at nights around the campfire ( last two nights – the old earlobes had suffered)
Then drove further down the peninsula along the coast and past the Dardenelles ( the seas that the Anzacs had also fought for control off) then down to the main British memorial at Abide – getting on now near sunset again found another spot to free camp on a paddock off a country road near a cliff overlooking the sea.
Once again a very quiet spot – don’t think we had a single car come past the whole night. Formed our usual u-shape camp – set up the Barbie – gathered plenty more pine cones and branches to fire the Barbie up with. Another night of meat searing away on the Barbie
Another salad and some (tin foil wrapped spuds/carrots and onion parcels ( delicioso )
Again the night brought good food, vino and conversation – earlier lights out tonite – everyone a bit jaded from the days emotions and sightseeing.
Back to an outstanding blue sky morning next morning – everyone up and about fairly early – Kane had shot down to the beach at sparrows fart and tried a spot of surfcasting with his new rod – not much joy their though. Mike and Ann were up and rustling about as ya do when you are in your first month on tour. I bet that will change a few more months down the track, speaking from experience now.
Still we shared brekkie together at our camp table – planning todays destinations – We will part company with Mike & Ann today – they will head north east to Istanbul – whilst Kane/Fiona/Briar and myself we will head to Eceabat – catch the ferry across to Cannakale and head south toward Bergama – stop somewhere along the coast for the night. So after packing up, saying our goodbye’s, well wishes and making sure we left a clean site we hit the trail – followed Mike & Ann till Eceabat where we waved them farewell. After purchasing our tickets, we had around a 30 min wait for our ferry crossing.
Whilst our wait for the ferry a Turkish chap with a bag of T-shirts who befriended and sucked us in to buying a t-shirt each ( $2.00 euros each).
Thirty minutes later we headed across the Dardenelles sea to Cannakale, a twenty-five minute ferry ride. Got some nice pics as we left Eceabat – and coming into Cannakale.
All mayhem once we docked and disembarked – spotted a Turismo Office near the dock exit gate – tried to park – but policia waved us on – round the roundabout and double parked on the other side across from the turismo office .
Hey when in Turkey do as the locals do – double park and leave your hazard lights flashing – so we did - don’t know if we should have done it in a public bus stop. Collected some useful info. and a few maps – Briar rode shotgun while I did the dash to the tourist info. ventured further down the road where they had a wooden Troy horse sitting in the park – stopped got some piccies ( actually used this particular one in the movie Troy)
Then we navigated some main looking roads to get us outta there and heading south toward Troy, Kane & Fi following us. Stopped at a local Kipo hypermarket for some supplies before venturing on – a local chap spotted us – How’s it going mate? he said.
You come form Oz or NZ . NZ we said , I have many NZ’ers come stay at my hotel in Eceabat, they say I look like Cliff Curtis – bit of a dag , this chap. Kia ora bro.

Back on the road we had around a 45 min. drive to Troy. Once here we stopped and ate lunch in the carpark – another older campervan with some Americans – who came over for a nosy, chatted to Kane and Fiona for a bit. Completely ignored us – snobs.
In the end we didn’t rustle into our pockets to find the $15.00 lira entry fee, a bit too much to pay to see a pile of rocks – which Troy pretty much is nowadays.
On we drove further down the coast - not that we were exactly on a coastal road – but in general. We finally pulled up in the small seaside village of Guzelay ( probably a rather busy little spot during summer, but not this time of the year) – found a camping spot in a hotel complex – only guests for the night – funny little round man (did understand a couple words of English $20.00 euros for the night for the two of us – sweet as – it was waterfront, had its own jetty and empty swimming pool, our first decent loo, hot shower and shave for three days, choice.
So we all took turns for the only shower we had access to, plenty of boats out from shore fishing for “blue fish” the catch of the day at present according to locals. Kane attempted another fish of the jetty for a couple hours to no avail again. As the sun went down – cranked the Barbie up – the obligatory anti-pasto and vino’s came out, everyone feeling cleansed and refreshed from the showers. Had some fresh steaks and sausies off the Barbie for dinner along with the tin-foiled wrapped veggies ( put that in for pommie Anns sake)
There was plenty of wood lying around the grounds to use as fuel for the nite. Discussed tmoro’s destination and plans – Bergama and the Acropolis there maybe.
All slept well – in fact so well that we all made a bit later start than had planned the previous evening. As the sun was beating down ( Kane and I in shorts) we bid farewell to our little round Turkish man around 10.30am – heading south – Once again we have been staggered by the arable and well cultivated land of Turkey – not the dry, dusty barren like land at all – Plenty of greenery – in fact the Autumn colours in some regions were as spectacular as we have seen in Greece / Slovenia and Croatia.

We pulled into another little seaside town Ayvalik - even more fascinating and busier than Guzelay, plenty of action down on the town waterfront and port area. Found a waterfront spot to have a feed, Tourist Info. centre directly across the road. Fantastic – Briar grabbed some more. info of local area - had a campground further around on an island about 20 k’s from where we were.
After lunch we decided to keep going further around the coast and then inland a wee bit to Bergama – had researched a campground there earlier. The drive took another couple hours – drove passed many seaside resorts and villages – hugging the coast nearly all the way long – a shame really the old western influence –in fact reminded us both of some parts of the coast of Spain, again many unfinished apartments, some looked as though they had not been worked on for months, some even deserted. The coastal splurge of apartments did not detract too much from the beauty of the sea – also crystal clear.
We pulled into Bergama around 4pm as we can only travel around the 90-95 km per hour mark so as not to lose Kane & Fiona,s campervan – had its own restaurant in front – also had washing machines and very good sanitary facilites – treat for the girls – showers two nights in a row. Did a load of washing each and some wifiing – had a cute little gazebo right next to our vans – made that ours – only one other camper in tonite – a French couple.
Kane made a delicious stir fry for dinner – after of course the almost mandatory nightly anti-pasto & vino’s ( especially since we have been travelling with Kane & Fiona- not sure if they are the alchies or us, or both). The light in the Gazebo burst its bubble earlier on just on dusk, but was replaced by another little not so round camp man – who just appeared out of the dark with a replacement bulb, on ya bro.

During our stay in Bergama we were treated for the first time, to the audacious sound of praying to Allah via very loud speakers on the steep spires of the mosques in the arvo, night and very early the next morning. Have noticed many of these spires in almost every town or village we have come across so far in Turkey and now we know why- have not really heard it before of any consequence, no doubt we will hear this more often now. Allah must have been looking after us – as their was enough of a breeze during the night, and another sunny morning – enough to dry our washing off before packing up and heading up the hill to the Acropolis – a 6 km drive up a steepish road – but not before driving smack through the middle of downtown Bergama – we were just following signs – as that is all we have to go by here in Turkey – no Sat-navs or tom-toms work here.
Crafty buggers the turks – you drive all the way up and then ya get double whammied with a parking lot fee 12.50 TL each van, and then an entry fee to the Acropolis $52.00 turkish lira( $35.00 euros per couple) it worked out to be.
Still the pile of rocks while not quite as impressive as the Athens Acropolis still very impressive – the amphitheatre was the steepest we saw – almost vertical in some parts at least 70 degrees I would reckon. Similar to Athens and Olympia – some small amounts of remedial reconstruction work had been done here and there, One end and around 6 columns still remained of the Temple. Being so high up , much higher than any city ruins visited so far inTurkey or Greece. One had spectacular views 360 degrees around one could also easily here the prayers from the speakers in Bergama as clear as day. A shame there was so much of that goddam European haze around , does not equate for picture taking. After an hour of wandering these 300 BC ruins – headed back down the hill to the vans – not off course without being hassled by the souvenir stall owners – several spoke pretty damned good English – they all ask where you are from.

Once in the vans we headed north again back in the direction towards Ayvalik – agreed to stop their for a night. So cruisy drive around 65 k’s back to Ayvalik from Bergama. Once back down at the Waterfront area – pulled in and parked. Locked the campers up and started exploring the backstreets and cobbled lanes of this bustling little seaside port town. Lost my specs somewhere during morning visit to Acropolis – so very fortunate to find a street seller with a new pair for me for $10.00 lira (around $ 4.00 euros) within 15 mins of being in Ayvalik – almost lost now without the goddam things – not much fun getting old I’ll tell ya.
During our strolling we had a camel procession complete with music (well drums mostly), big hairy creatures – salivating dribble the whole time – very colorfully dressed up. There was also the old shoe shine chaps with their ornately decorated stands – majority of Turkish men all wear leather shoes and very well polished – even the more non-well to do amongst them. Stopped for a Turkish kebap or similar, on bread – all starving - $2.50 lira each about a euro. Very tasty, checked out some more shops – before doing a small shop at the local Tansa supermarket.
Then we headed out to the camp we had been given the address for the previous day by the info. centre – around 15 k’s over a man-made stretch of road ( about 600 metres long) between the mainland and the island of Cunda out to Camping Ada – an ideallyic beach front camp – once again we were the only campers for the night (S20.00 lira for the night- sweet as)
Kane once again had a wharf to fish from – he even managed to catch a few here – not that they were worth eating mostly due to size (Kiwiw’s and AUsiies wouldn’t eat them that is – most European countries would serve them up in the restaurants and at home). Had a couple of friendly camp dogs who made it there job to keep watch over su during our stay. You guessed it the nightly scenario, snackies and vino as we watched a magical sunset yet again – the sunsets we have experienced here in Turkey, as equally as good as any in Greece including Santorini. Briar made a pasta dish for dinner once too dark too hang around outside. Played cards tonite – taught Kane & Fiona how to play Crib – they got the hang off it after a couple games , but ya just can’t beat experience especially with a couple of cagy old wolve(rine) like Briar and I about.
Still we all crashed to the extreme sound of silence for the night. Blissfully quiet spot, a distant sound of a fishing boat perhaps returning to Ayvalik port. The stars also out in force again tonite , clarity of the night sky here almost as impressive as back home in NZ. Another stunning Turkish morning again, sadly we had to leave this ideallyic haven (the old fella was offering Kane a boat to go fishing in!) – but new roads to drive, new sights to see.
After tracking the coast abit we headed inland where we travelled through very wooded, forested areas, hills and valleys – many beautiful autumn colours, miles and miles of olive groves being harvested, also many fruit and vegetable stalls along this route. We drove through the inland towns and cities of Edremit/ Balikirsir and a very foggy Bursa – where streets and streets of Apartment blocks being built, before getting back on the coast of the Sea of Marmara at Gemlik – stopped for a bite of lunch around 2pm- once again right down on the waterfront promenade, much to the amusement of the locals, especially two 12/14 year old lads, who tried to strike up conversation.
After feeding the worms we ventured on further east up the Sea of Marmara coast – no camps here so finally found a wide enough street that headed down to the seafront close to Altinova – found an unused patch of grass, dirt and rubble in between what appeared to be holiday homes mostly. Astounded by the amount of rubbish washed up or just dumped around – and yet where we were going to camp for the night we had a good sized dumpster.
Have sadly noticed both through Greece and Turkey the amount of rubbish along the roads, seafronts, rivers etc.etc – not lasting impressions one likes to keep. Being in tandem – when in slightly dodgy spots for free-camping it certainly feels a lot more safer than when on one’s own. Still only a couple people lingering around with the smog / mist not quite sure which – Briar says smog – don’t think it can all be smog, smoke maybe from wood burning chimneys. A couple locals stopped by for a cigarette or just to be nosy – an old chap even wanted Kane’s address – we figured so he could skite to his mates. No Barbie again tonite – ate indoors and another card nite also enjoyed by all. No hassles during our night’s stay – couple late night boy racers – yes they have them here in Europe as well – not to the same insanely intensity as we have at home, but still boy racers. So glad we have an on board loo, Kane & Fiona don’t in their van – did offer it to them several times. They proudly hung on to the next morning where we pulled in just down the road at a fuel stop.
Morning very misty ( me) and smoggy (Briar) – we did have a bit of brekkie before heading off. Bathroom needed first so – we hit the trail – after the much needed pit stop and refuelling the campers onward we pressed toward Istanbul – with no sat-nav or tom-tom we knew this could be a bit of fun finding our previously booked hotel – smack in the middle of the old part – Sultanahmet – hugely intensely packed motorways – four lanes wide – crossing the Bosphorus on one of the bridges – bumper to bumper for about 10 k’s crawling along – managed to stay the course – but did not take a correct exit – so had to back track for 10 k’s or so along the coastal road where we did find the correct railway underpass close to our destination the Sahuran Hotel – with some on the edge of your seat manouvering down some very narrow streets – after several attempts, lots of asking along the way and helpful directions by locals we found our hotel – only problem no parking for campervans – too big.
Found a carpark couple hundred metres away around a couple of corners and lanes. This area of Istanbul has many old run-down buildings – some have been restored, others left derelict and almost unsafe to be leaving in their state. Also obvious is the people here are definitely at the lower end of the social economic scale. The shops and restaurants in this area certainly must find it tough goin not just in the off-season but during the peak times as well I reckon.
Had a mini caged soccer field directly across the road from the hotel. A new hotel being built or more renovated from some existing buildings into a hotel. Will be open within 4 or 5 months I would say. As much as I think its tough going for these people here the place still seems to buzz and the people are generally happy with their lot. Material assets are definitely high on the priority list in comparison to us westerners.
Booked into the hotel after packing bags etc.etc for our 5 night stay in Istanbul.
We had a shared family room with Kane and Fiona – being the cheapest option for two nights – then they would have a room to themselves for last two nights of their planned stay. Reasonably good hotel for 2 star – certainly a lot softer beds than the bricks we had to sleep on in the Greek islands. Nice en-suite – small kitchenette – free wifi from your room and satellite LCD TV – only 3 channels in English.
We all kicked back for arvo – after showers and a few vino’s. Had received and texted pommie Mike & Ann earlier – who were at the mo staying in Istanbul as well. So decided to meet them somewhere and all go out for dinner together, excellent stuff. The hotel is very close to all the top sites and attractions in Istanbul and most within walking distance , so we caught up with our new pommie friends later near the Blue Mosque and Mike had suggested a restaurant not far away –aptly titled – The Pudding Shop – So we piled in their – livening the place up as we foreigners do tend to do.
So feasted on some more traditional Turkish fare – washed down with some Turkish beer for a change for the lads. Ok food and not too badly priced ( 2 courses each and two drinks each for around $60.00 lira - $25.00 euro) . Much conversation and catch ups – also would do a ferry boat up the Bosphorus with them on the Sunday arvo – sounded well priced and we had planned on doing one anyway.
Bid our poms goodnight and stopped for an apple tea on the way back to our hotel – extremely hot, deliciously creamy and very apple flavoured – most unusual but very nice. We all crashed in front of the square box and some old movie.
After the early sunrise sounds of Allah and my snoring woke everyone up around eightish or so – the weather very misty and abit gloomy lookin for a change – especially after the great weather we have experienced in Turkey so far. Shared a cuppa outside with Kane havin his morning tobacco fix, nearly a year and a half now since I gave away the little white death sticks – hasn’t been the best for the waistline – but I’m sure my lungs are appreciating it – who knows another five years and there might be almost no traces of that dreaded nicotine left around in there.
We all showered again before heading up for brekkie around 9.30am- had a climb up 4 flights of stairs to the rooftop terrace where I guess one would have great views aross the Marmara sea – but the fog pretty heavy over the sea – around couple hundred metres vision max.
The buffet brekkie very good – not you’re usual westerners brekkie – but a good variety and fresh enough. Not sure about the couple of varieties of olives for brekkie – but they do grow them here in great volumes – so maybe it is part of their staple breakfast diet. The Turkish natural yoghurt with a sharp tangy taste mixed with a bit of fig and honey – buonisimo. After replenishin the worms we headed back down to the room and packed backpacks for venturing into the sights and shopping of Istanbul. We made a beeline for the Blue mosque first – around a 15 minute walk uphill through the labrinyth of narrow cobbled streets of Sultanahmet.
By this time many tourists and busloads of tourists about – we all thought we might have been under dressed( shorts, girls had no scarves) very much the old muslim ways here with not all but many of the female gender particularly well covered up ( not even a flash of an ankle) but also many younger modern Turkish women dressed similar to many European women no matter want country you are in- younger women and jeans are absolutely huge here in Europe – to the point of being the no.1 favoured attire – we did not go through the mosque – plenty of days left to go through when we felt more comfortable with the way we dressed and they were having prayer session – so no public allowed in for next 30 mins.

So we walked on through some streets – Kane hassled by a friendly local wanting to offer us tea and sell us some carpet as we made our way to the Grand bazaar – Istanbuls famed flea markets – where one can buy almost anything- almost.
The majority of this famed bazaar is under cover – but it is so big that it now includes many outer shops, stalls even street stands. So it is little wonder that one can get lost through the myriad of dazzling shops and stalls.
Of course the shop attendants are also not only observant but very sharp with their tact and they must all attend the same salesman school- they are all very slick and not only with their tongues. Poor old Fiona (being a young attractive European lass (Australian actually) – copped quite a bit of flak and flirty proposals from several younger stall attendants. To me it made for good amusement as we wandered – took some piccies.
There are so many selling the same thing – once again must be hard to make a decent living. We were told before buying anything wait for their price offer (as nothing has prices on it) and offer them a third and be prepared to walk away, which most of us did on several occasions – only had a few chase after us – accepting our offer. So bargaining became the order of the arvo. Did get stung on some cheap high class rip-off brand perfume and after shave- Started at $55.00 lira each got down to $15.00 each($6.00 euro) – but later we found could have got them for about $8.00-10.00 lira. Ah well – ya can’t beat them all. Fiona and Briar were in womens heaven ( leather jackets, leather shoes, silk and cashmere scarves, silk wraps, gold and silver jewellery, equisite glassware etc.etc.)
Three hours later we managed to find an exit gate – big sigh of relief from Kane and I.
Not only had we not had to delve into the back pocket much at all – but those bloody worms were in need of satisfying. More of a reconnoitre visit – see whats what – before going back with a definite plan on the Monday – being Saturday today and the Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays – funny that.
Found a souvalki kitchen – selling fresh cooked kebaps – watched our chicken souvalaki’s being barbequed – don’t come much fresher than that. Bargain price of $2.00 lira each ( $0.70 euro cents each) also more like what we get back home – in a wrap as opposed to a bun. Absolutely delicimo. We ate and wandered heading down toward the also famed spice markets about a kilometre – had to navigate through extremely busy streets full of shops, thousands of Turks out enjoying the late arvo sun which had finally broken through the mist/fog/smog and I mean thousands – this was way busier than in side the Grand Bazaar – more than likely because this is where the locals do their shopping – leaving the Grand Bazaar for the tourists. Perhaps also coming up to the festive season – early chrissie shopping ?
One could smell the spice markets as we approached, finally found the doorway to the markets which was as busy inside as was outside. Stalls and stalls of piled high spices (neatly arranged) of almost every type of spice known – but also obviously catering to the local market more so. Also stalls with that ever delicious Turkish delight in many varieties and flavours – along with several other types of Turkish home-made sweets – very big influence off honey and pistachio’s it appeared.
By now we all had enough of masses of people and the constant hustle and bustle of the place – so did a rather quicker tour through the Spice market. Did buy some Turkish delight for a treat. After a sampling each made a beeline back to the hotel – us oldies caught the tram back up the hill – Kane and Fiona walked – on ya.
Relaxed again once back at the Hotel – kept getting hassled by local restauranteurs plying if not begging us to come eat at their restaurant. We might have to dodge our way every time we go back to the hotel next few days.
Chilled – did a bit of Wifiing watched some BBC world – all showered again before heading out for dinner – planned to catch up with Mike & Ann again for dinner – which we did – same rendevous point – but wandered further in search of some dinner – finally struck a deal with a restauranteur doing the strong street sell like they all were for trade. $20.00 turkish lira each ($8.00 euro) – three courses – not bad – Tapas/dips & bread for entrée – fish and salads for main and baklava for desert.
Much conversation again as we braved the elements and ate outside – luckily they had outdoor gas heaters. Both Mike and Ann had been for the Turkish bath experience that morning – both thoroughly enjoyed it.
Kane and Fiona couldn’t afford it and Briar and I were too gun shy to do it.
More alcohol stimulated conversation during the meal. Earlier finish to the night for us all, we were back at the hotel after traversing the local restaurants near our hotel. Cuppa and a bit of TV before I snored myself to sleep, not sure about the others.
I think Kane and Fiona will be looking forward to their own room somehow. Another misty,foggy, smoggy morning greeted us as we ate brekkie on the glass covered roof terrace overlooking the Sea of Marmara, could see out about 200 metres this morning.

After brekkie we checked out the local fish markets – about half a kilometre down the road – on the waterfront near our hotel. I though the fish markets in Bergen/Norway was impressive – this fish market equally impressive – far more variety and certainly far bigger and diverser range of fish. Big bins and tanks with fresh fish swimming about, fresh sea water running through all the time. Continued wandering along the waterfront – a different route back to the hotel – spotted a couple poles with a wire with lotsa colourful balloons tied to the wire and tin cans amongst the rocks.

As we got closer we noticed a box with a couple of slug guns/rifles sitting on them - one lira for four shots – be rude not to have a go – certainly wouldn’t get anything like this in on the waterfront in downtown Auckland or Tauranga. So we all had a go each, even the girls. Hard case , back to the hotel for a bit. Then headed uphill and then downhill to Eminounu area of Istanbul – where were going to meet Mike & Ann (pommies) for a ferry ride up the Bosphorus ( this is around a 22 km river that links the Aegean/Sea of Marmara and the Black sea – so is extremely busy with plenty of ship movement on it twenty-four seven. In fact one day whilst having brekkie up on the top of our Hotel terrace we counted approx. 160 ships anchored of what we could see due to the mist, so probably would have been twice maybe three times as many out there.
Stopped for a lunch on the run – all havin various take-away’s. Meet Mike & Ann in front of the spice markets as arranged and then proceeded across the road to the Galata bridge – where being a Sunday – both sides of the bridge were lined with hundreds and I mean hundreds of fishermen crammed next to each other – elbow to elbow – made quite a spectacle the hundreds of rods/lines hanging over – took a piccie of course.
Bought our tickets for the ferry ($10 lira each- $4.00 euro –bout 1 ½ hour cruise) – boarded the vessel – found a good spot at outside on the upper deck - be nice sunny spot for viewing and taking pics. Had a Turkish tea while we waited to take off – away we went – noticeably all the way long the Bosphorus – Sunday fishermen doing their favourite hobby – not too much different from home I guess. Also obvious that only the wealthy can afford to live along the Bosphorus waterfront- huge palatial homes and the odd apartment complex – with the occasional palace or historic building spattered amongst. One could almost think they were cruising up the upper Sydney harbour with the styles of buildings. We coasted up and back down to where we left off at around a comfortable 8-10 knot speed – in fact a very relaxing way to spend a nice sunny afternoon in Istanbul. Once back at the dock we farewelled our pommie mates – Briar and I would meet them for dinner that night– but Kane & Fiona’s budget wouldn’t allow.
Briar and I trammed back up to Sultanahmet – Kane & Fiona had things to check out and decided to walk – once again bit of chilling and wifiing before heading out for and meeting Mike & Ann dinner – pizza on the menu tonite near their hotel. Big hugs and farewells after dinner – as we would not see them again until perhaps near the end of 2010 in NZ.
Earlier night back at our room in the hotel – Kane & Fiona now in their own room now. Both B and I had a good sleep, met our mates for brekkie on the terrace – planned a bit more sightseeing and another visit to the Grand bazaar for the day .

First stop the Blue mosque – more properly attired we joined the queue to go in, had to take your shoes off and carry them through the temple. Absolutely grand in scale and opulence, but not in gold or treasures as one sees numerously throughout western Europe in Catholic churches and cathedrals. The internal central dome is mosaic-ed with some 20 thousand of tiles – in white and blue – hence its name.
The exterior of the central large dome roof also at certain times and in certain light exudes shades of blue – hence its name. A flying ten minute pass through along with bus loads of European and American tourists, doing the same. The girls keen to head up the hill to the Fatih area and the grand bazaar – buying day today – Briar had a list – which we managed to tick off 95 % off the wishes on it. Silver jewellery , cashmere scarves and a very nice leather jacket – the best part is the bargaining of course – seeing how much you can get the item you are interested in for the lowest price.
A few stalls are fixed price – have the discounts already built in.
Spent another 3 hours or so wandering through the labrinyth of stalls. Did buy a shirt for myself for 18 lira. Munched on another kebap to keep the worms happy as we sauntered through the maze . After finally having enough we made our way back to the hotel – did some to listen to a free concert in a nearby park – Turkish theatre come musical troup telling obviously some wee-known turkish tale or folk story. Amusing stuff. Had another one of the deliciously creamy apple teas again. They serve it extremely hot.
We chilled again for a few hours before meeting up again and heading over to Beyoglu on the opposite side of the river still on the European side though. We were all in a need of something other than Turkish for a change. The hotel had a stand in the foyer with business cards on it, where we found probably one of a very few Chinese restaurants which happened to be in Beyoglu.
So after the walk up the hill, onto a tram across the river – then caught the only funicular tram in Istanbul. Then wandered down the hill back toward the Galata tower and bridge. Had googled the street where the restaurant was – so found it without too much fuss. Narrow little restaurant it was – but buzzing with people and energy, no alcohol environment- had to walk past the kitchen out the front – the smells were divine – probably cause we hadn’t smelt those smells for a while. The service, food and ambience – very very good for a Chinese restaurant in Turkey and the place was humming the whole time we were there and mostly with locals as opposed to tourists like us. After our generous dinner we waddled back down the Beyoglu hill toward Eminounu over the Galata bridge – not so many fishermen tonite – but still the odd one.
The Beyoglu main street – the modern area of Istanbul – very similar to any European main city drag with the well known European shopfront names all the way along.
Caught our tram back up the hill and walked back down the other side to our hotel – once again manouvering or more like avoiding the local restauranters in close proximity to our hotel. Bid our fellow travellers goodnight – tomorrow their journey will separate from us.
Meet them for brekkie again on the roof top. A clearer day for a change, still a bit of mist around but not like we have had so far in Istanbul. After brekkie helped carry their luggage back to their van parked in the paying school parking lot. Big hugs, handshakes , goodbyes etc. etc hopefully we will catch up with Kane and Fiona in London just before chrissie. If not they have said they might come down to Papamoa in January – they are intending to come to NZ for a couple months to catch up with Kane’s family. Will be brilliant to catch up again some time. Have thoroughly enjoyed their company at various times during our journey as well.
We left them with the Barbie, a couple of fold chairs and our fold out table – which I know for sure they will use – we have no real need for these items as our adventure is near over. After the farewells we had one more night before we were back on the road again – made our way to the Haghia Sofia mosque to me even more impressive than the blue mosque – it was built in the 13th century – 4 centuries before the blue mosque is even bigger and grander and has withstood many more earthquakes and what is very more impressive is that it is largely almost intact to this day. Took many pics inside – then wandered around the Topkapi palace before once again doing another amble through the grand bazaar . Then back to the hotel – wifiing and chilling some, before heading just up the road for some traditional Turkish at a very traditional Turkish restaurant. Restaurant very busy . Enjoyed the noisy ambience, even had Turkish music. Watched some telly when back at the hotel before drifting off.
Another reasonably clear morning , mostly a day on the road today, up for brekkie early and checked out of the hotel by 9.00am – wanted to beat the morning traffic in the local area – especially through the tight streets of Sultanahmet then onto an arterial route (Kennedy drive ) which took us all the way out past the airport and back towards the greek border – around 170 k’s away. Stopped for some diesel and some food supplies in Ipsala before we crossed the border – even had farmers coming to collect their groceries on their tractors , as their were several tractors parked in the supermarket carpark– had around a 15 minute smoko break wait at the actual border – but sailed through no problem – past all four checkpoints again.
Made a beeline back to Alexandroupoli – pulled in around 3pm set up camp – had stayed at this camp on they through to Turkey couple weeks back so had no trouble finding it, decided to camp here and do some spring cleaning on Hugo – had bought some cleaning products at the supermarket in Turkey. Parked absolute beachfront – as it was a fine and clear blue sky – we would have front row seats to another tres magnifique sunset. Spent a couple hours do some spring cleaning – as no Barbie anymore – pork chops and veggies on the gas burner for dinner tonite.
Woke to another splendid greek morning – cruisy start – will head further around the coast also back to another stop we made a couple weeks ago in Kavala, but will try a different campground. Only around 160 k’s to travel today, enjoyed our second to last brekkie on the Aegean coast in warm sunshine. Pulled into our next stop Batis Beach camp about 2pm, only ones their, leaves piled everywhere throughout the campground – found a spot, found a camp ladder – very handy for cleaning the roof and polishing the over cab – both spent several more hours until almost dark giving Hugo a good clean up.
Had another camper pull in latter in the arvo – camper with dutch plates but with a North Californian couple – Chuck and Clair. Unusual to find an American couple doing the Europe tour especially in a camper, good on them – ended up chatting to chuck for a bit – they had been into town for a big lunch – but invited them over to share a wine and conversation latter on after dinner. Both retired university professors doing their big OE adventure. Were going to spend around a year travelling just like us, had a buy back lease arrangement with their campervan, had also had trouble with the gear transmission and after getting it repaired they still had issues with it. Nice couple enjoyed their company – gave them maps, our spare Europe atlas and more info. on campgrounds etc. for their journey – as ya do.
Woke to a misty morning the next morning – bid our fellow American campervanners farewell – they left around the same time as us from batis beach – had come recommended by pommie’s Mike & Ann – but would not go back their again.
Rooled along the coast – in some ways very similar to the French Riviera but not in the same class, but siimiliar. Plenty fisherman in their skiffs silhouetted against the hazy misty sea and sky, our last impressions of the Aegean sea.
Travelling back down familiar highways made it easy and quicker to get to our destination, did try to dodge some tolls just outside Thessanoliki but to no avail, missed out by 5 k’s. Then up over a mountain plateau inland towards Meteora, a few windy roads and then some valleys before almost unexpectedly arriving in the amazingly shaped rocks of Meteora. It was a bit of a hike to get their after being diverted down some secondary roads. Still we pulled into camp around 2pm – nobody around at camping Vrachos when first pulled in- did have a squiz at the facilities – ok to average – not worst we have come across
Met a young French couple staying their, decided to have a look around the town and at other campground options, which we did – but after visiting a couple others also not so great campgrounds, went back to Vrachos and booked in for a night at least. Did some more polishing on the Hugo before dark. The weird shaped rocks of meteora made interesting silhouettes against the night sky as sun set and even more unusual as the star came out. Pasta meal for dinner – both watched a Dvd before bed – both very tired, should both sleep well tonite. Temp. outside has certainly dropped a few degrees . Just a short whinge here, have been rather disappointed in the level and quality of campgrounds throughout Greece – in the twenty plus countires visited so far on our tour would rate Greece campgrounds in the bottom five.
Woke to a misty morning – did have some drizzle during the night. Decided to have a camp day, did some washing, a few loads, Did sneak out later in the early arvo once the mist had lifted and the skies cleared , did a tiki tour around the fabled monasteries of Meteora – their are only six left of the original twenty-five, what is unique about these churches and monasteries are they are all precariously perched on top of these rocks – building feats in their own right, mostly built during the 16/17 th centuries. Only the big fellow knows why they would build schools, buildings of worship on top of these amazingly shaped rocks. Visited one properly by foot and just drove past taking piccies of the others. Amazing scenery with the newer town down below – at the bottom of these rocks/mountains – interesting perspective. Did a Lidl supermarket shop later in the arvo before heading back to camp and keeping a close watch on our washing – the French couple had left couple by now. Plenty of younger greek rock climbers by the look staying for the night. Did some more wifiing, reading – managed to get majority of washing dry.
Early dinner , both watched a Dvd – then bedtime.
Woke to a beautiful morning – clear blue skies and morning sunlight casting interesting shadows across the rocks of meteora- did take some snappies. Headed out of Meteora around 10.00am – around 2 ½ hour drive to Igoumenitsa – through some very mountainous terrain and one very big but picturesque valley. The last 60/70 k’s recently completed motorway – numerous tunnels through the mountains. When we arrived in Igoumenitsa changed our plans for the ferry again – decided to head back tonite instead of tomorrow nite as had planned – even then we were a couple days early than our original Dec.4 th booking. Had a late lunch on the harbour’s edge enjoying the sun streaming in for the arvo – the ferry didn’t leave till 10.00pm – so had around 6/7 hours to kill before embarkation. So did some blogging – lotsa reading
- did end up having dinner on the wharf – did have to got throrough a border control .
The ferry pulled into Igoumenitsa almost exactly on time – a Minoan Lines ferry was first with Anek right in behind like clockwork – I’m still staggered by the way these massive ships are manoeuvred in such minimal spaces for docking – amazing skills.
In a rather short time we were on board and pulling out almost before we got to our room – left Hugo in amongst all the semi’s. Couldn’t camp on board this trip – so had a cabin with en-suite for our return crossing back to Ancona again. Did have wifi on board and did pay 5 euros for 45 mins. worth but connection seriously crappy. Did a small tour before we both crashed around 11.00pm – another sleep to the gentle rocking of the seas – although the sea a little more vigorous than our last crossing.

Both of us didn’t sleep particularly well and the weather next morning not the best either – no rain – but very cloudy and windy. Both showered and headed up for brekkie – very average in quality,taste and presentation – really how I would sum up my general Greece experience unfortunately. When we docked about 1pm in Ancona- disembarkation very swift – no border control here just drove straight of the ferry and onto our designated motorway north – we headed back up to Bellaria to another campground we stayed previously in may this year – the weather and temp. being very different, it also happened to one of few open along this coast this time of year.

Pulled into Camping Happy around 3pm – once again only campers their for night – booked in for two nights – more spring cleaning to do on Hugo and weather forecast for tomorrow supposed to be good. We were all so ahead of our timeframe and schedule and the facilities we remembered from our last stay were very good.
We set up close to the sanitary block and bunkered in for the night – had several drizzles during the afternoon and night. Had another earliesh dinner and two Dvd’s tonite before bed. Have been using up back-up supplies from the bottom cupboard – little left now to use up which is good.
As forecast woke to a sunny morning and even the temperature was several millibars greater than yesterday – good day to do more washing and cleaning of Hugo – probably our last before we get back to UK.
Spent most of morning doing the chores and after lunch we drove to Cesentanico – a town Briar enjoyed last time we were here – drove around – very much more deserted than last time also- even when heading back to Bellaria along the beachfront road the apartments, hotels and shops looked ghostly – did stop and wandered down to the beach just to have a look – nobody or anything about. Called into the local Ipermarket in a nearby shopping centre in Bellaria near our campground. Did a small shop for a few items – decided on fresh fish for dinner – yum.
Back at camp the washing taking longer to dry than expected – camp dryer bloody useless. Back at camp some wifiing and planning for our drive north back up to Calais – have been also getting frequent calls about Hugo from three very interested buyers all wanting the first call on our arrival back in the UK. Enjoyed our fish for dinner – as well as a Dvd. Would have an early start tomorrow – Briar’s turn to drive – 320 k’s at least 5 hours travel.
Will sign off as the beginning of a new month today – December 1st. Have a stop in Switzerland for a couple days with Ernst, Pim and Jenny again on way back through, but will be in winter and in the snow this time – both looking forward to that.
Second last blog update – next one will be from the US – we have a week stopover in New York on way back to NZ .
So for now – Arrivedeici

October Update

1. Taking the Bus down the Danube - Budapest Hungary
2. View from Eisriesenwelt Hohle(Ice caves)Werfen - near Salzburg
3. Sunset at Paradise Camping - Peloponese Island - Greece
4. Street in Nafplio - Peloponese Isand - Greece
5. The Chain Bridge and Danube River - Budapest Hungary
6. Laundry, Suntanning and camp day - Lake heviz Slovenia
7. Hugo on board the Olympic Princess car ferry - on way to Patra - Greece
8. Epidavros Amphitheatre - Peloponese Isand - Greece
9. Briar on the rooftop terrace bar - Hotel Stein - Salzburg
10.Briar & Mark on the Dragon Bridge - Ljubjlana Slovenia
11.Briar & Mark at Schloss Schonnbrunn - Vienna Austria
12.Picturesque Lake Bled- Slovenia




October Update 2009

Weather for our second day in Hungary – superbly fine & clear, but a little cooler and that European haze back again as we drove outta Komaron and beat a track along next to the Danube – around 20 deg temps. still shorts & t-shirt weather. Roads off the beaten track (alias motorways) bit marginal but passed through several quaint villages along the Danube – Esztergom our first stop – mainly to visit the largest Basilica in Hungary - an impressive domed structure perched on a hilltop overlooking the Danube – awesome. Did the usual snappie thing before heading off again further around the Danube – Visegrad next stop – where the Kiralyi Castle/ Cittadella built by 13th century Hungarian kings sits with spectacular views off the Danube river both ways and across to towns dotted along the Danube river in Slovakia .
The cittadella had some patchwork remodelling as with most castles throughout Europe – more to safeguard the hordes of tourists that pass through these ruins. Interestingly this was the oldest seat of European rule.
Stopped for lunch inda carpark - then onto Budapest only around 35k’s from Visegrad– still early in the arvo to check out a camper/caravan dealer - had done some previous wifiing to find the only dealer in Budapest and get GPS co-ordinates – found our dealer , who had not only replacement campervan table legs ( that were too short) but also roof vents which we also badly needed for both the kitchen extractor fan & heater/fridge – long story – but the short version Briar managed to find a low-lying branch on the French Riviera many moons ago which literally shredded both our vents- that had up until today had several lots of duct tape (I provided that part!)stopping the rain from getting in.
So with much intonation and sign language ( as I understood didly squat of Hungarian and they understood a minute amount of English) the shorter table leg required a packer to get it to the right height, hey we drove out 40 minutes later with a new and stronger table leg and 2 new vents minus the duct tape – yippee. (And I still drove rght under a branch as we headed off up the raod…what is that about?)
So on we headed for Camping Niche which was only around 10 k’s away, so negotiating homebound peakhour traffic (tright through the guts of the city…again for me) – no worries. Pulled into the campground appropriately named – which was an olde tram station in its previous life. Stuck right under a mountain – well actually a bloody big hill with a chairlift mind you – which Briar & I rode on our second arvo in Buda. Checked in – ya campsite came with brekkie – weird first time in Europe for that ( it needed to be, as this was one of the most expensive in Europe so far) The facilities were marginal but had free wifi and a bus stop couple hundred yards away. As we set up an Aussie couple who we had run into at Camping Wien in Vienna came over for a chat. They came over later on as we did the anti-pasto and vino thing and fired up the Barbie.
We had a choice piece of rump steak – the first in weeks – so we all savoured the smell it made from the Barbie as well as the taste of a good piece of barbequed meat like back home – I’m sure Kane & Fiona were salivating at the site as well.
Even had another lot of young aussie lads (six of them on van tour in a Ford Transit mind –you (F..K THAT) wandering back and forward to the showers making kind remarks about the aroma drifting across the campground. Lads heading in to town for the nite.
You guesses it… 5 bottles of vino and a couple beers not counting aussie Fiona’s sterling effort of 2 bottles of blanco vino on her own – she did appear to be dribbling a lot towards the end of the evening – great couple (Kane an ex-pat kiwi – been in west oz for a decade and Fiona – (good olde west coast sheila) – they were about two months into their six month Europe stint. Excellent night had by all of course – amazing amount of stories and bullshit comes out when folks are chewing the fat with a few (wrong choice of word- copious would probably have been a better choice) vinos besides a Barbie or just a open flamed fire.
I know the young girls didn’t crawl outta bed till after lunch on good authority – hard arse campaigners like Briar & I were up at sparrows fart ( yeah right) Still we were up and out and on the 10.30am into the centre of Budapest.
The weather doing the right thing again , buonissimo. Checked out the Parliament building – splendid copy of Westminster Abbey in London – St.Stephens basilica – wandered thru a few streets and parks of Pest – one side of the city is called Buda and the newer side on the other side of the river is called Pest . Funny that. – Budapest as a whole was a bit more cosmopolitan than I was expecting – don’t know why I thought this.
Stopped for a coffe and a panini in a piazza somewhere in pest. Walked over the Chain bridge and then along the Danube toward the Margeret bridge where we caught our bus back to the campground – where we jumped on the chairlift (about a 7-8 min ride up to the top – didn’t have enough time really to do the walks to get what would have been sublime vistas over the whole of Budapest – caught up with the crew – another young aussie couple pulled into camp – so did the usual nosey parker intro etc.
An hour later we were all huddled around the campground outdoor timber tables knockin a few bevies back and swapping bullshit again. Even the aussie lads joined in and suggested we all head into town and check out the latest club rave in Buda – Instant – so we all did an hour later – dunno what it is with the young lot these days – we caught the latest possible bus into town after the girls changed clothes several times to get the right look with the right outfit and the lads smeared wet look gel thru their hair upteen times – 10.45pm we headed in.
Look out Buda – after a bit of street searching we finally found the place – in my perceptive manner I could see why they called it instant – it was a derelict old disused building with an open courtyard in the middle that had been instantly put together in a hurry to form a nightclub. Had a few modern titbits here and there, and it did have an underground cellar jam bar & dance floor – which I admit to shakin a few John Travolta steps on. No ventilation so didn’t last to long down their.
The club had also lotsa nooks and crannies to it – mostly left untouched apart from the odd salvation army sofa or chair mixed with s/steel bar stools and leather – don’t figure. But it works as the place was packed with the local in crowd. Mumsie & I beat a track outta their around 2.00am – stopped for a macca’s fortunately still open only just and caught aTaxi ride home – leaving the youngies to it.
Besides we would have cramped their style I’m sure. We had a great nite – Oh to be young again.
Both had a slower start to the day, but up and out again by 11am. Managed to score several freshly cooked pancakes from the dining room today , they also made a delicious fried bread – bit like fried maori bread. The tea was crap but the coffee Ok if it was warm. The girls got home at daybreak with a couple of the young aussie lads. In town on the Buda side of the river we caught the funicular up the Varhegy ( Buda Castle hill) – this walled complex houses the Matyas Templon, Kiralyi Palota, Halaszbastya and also gives stunning views over pest and the Danube on a day like today was. We had a coffee and a filled roll for lunch – then headed back down the funicular and caught a train out to the Szechenyi Furdo ( Baths) very much like the olde Blue Baths in Rotorua but on a much grander scale.
Whilst there are three big outdoor pools in varying temps. there are also 10 indoor pools of varying temps and sizes – when ya come outta the changing room ya wander through a labrinyth of indoor rooms with pools before you get to the bigger outdoor ones. Spent a leisurely couple of hours soaking up not just the rays from the sun , but also these supposedly mineral waters.
There were plenty of olde men around who looked as though they spent a whole lotta time chilling out here. Even watched a chess game (being played IN the pool by old fellas) for awhile – no doubt a favourite past time for some of the regulars. The Hungarians seem to be particularly fond of bathing it appears. Took a couple snappies for the record. Then back on the trains into town for a cheap dinner – had me first feed of KFC in Europe , not bad either and bussed back to camping Niche – did some wifiing before a Dvd and bed. The girls had pretty much a home day – still in bed watchin Dvd’s when we got home around 7.00pm. Much cooler night tonite – down around maybe 5 or 6 degrees.
Woke to another splendid morning – Kane and Fiona (kiwi/Ozzie friends) also hit the trail early – passed on a few camping guides, maps and brochures – as ya do – bid them farewell – swapped email addresses, etc. We also hit the road around 10.30-11.00am in glorious sunshine – Heading toward Slovenia with a 2 day stop at Lake Heviz – a natural thermal spa lake – with amazing healing powers due to the many minerals bubbling up from underneath the earths crust.
From Budapest pretty much a straight motorway dash through the middle of the country, then along next to Lake Batalon – Hungaries largest lake. Countryside fairly barren most of the way – till we got near Lake Batalon – where the usual European cultivated fields of barley, wheat and maize were growing or some had been cultivated, many fields of stubble and ploughed dirt.
Turned off the highway about half way along Lake Batalon on to a secondary road which ran along the lakeside – where their were numerous holiday houses , camping grounds , restaurants – majority closed or empty of course being the time of year – so not much traffic on the roads either. Found Heviz town which we drove around first to get our bearings – past the infamous thermal Lake Heviz and then booked into the campground which is right next to Lake Heviz – across the road actually.
The campground infact is bisected by a man made channel-come stream which Lake Heviz feeds out of and all so as we noticed where all the locals go dipping just outside the campground for the freebie water healing powers this Lake supposedly delivers. The main lake is fenced off - its more off a giant sized pool than a lake – but its not man made, there’s reeds at the lake edges (and lillie pads to swim with in places – eels I expect as well…) and you have to pay $8.00 euros for a dip. It has timber boarded walkways around the edges with many changing facilities and a huge pavilion in the middle of the lake with many decks surrounding the pavilion with sunloungers everywhere for sunbaking.
We set up camp after finding a spot next to the stream through the middle of the camp and handy enough to the toilet block for the girls. We all then donned our swimsuits and wandered around the corner to Lake Heviz for a dip. Because it was later on in the arvo – around 4.30pm and they close the gates at 6.00pm – we were only charged $4.00 euro each – sweet as. Wandered around the Lake edge till we came to a wharf with some spare sunloungers, down the timber steps and into the water – very dark greenish in colour – definite aroma to it – had lotsa galvanised and timber bars where ya could hang off – all the german tourists and locals drifted around in their plastic blow-up flotation rings – as the bottom is very deep and none of us were game enough to dip our heads under little own check out the bottom. Chaz a little freaked out about the experience – but good on her for hanging in for half an hour or so. The rest of us came outta their after an hour or so feeling amazingly invigorated mentally at least – whether or not it made an iota of a difference to our well-being I’m sure the vino’s later on would do just as good a job. ( yep only look 45 years old now…) Back at camp we all showered before mumsie cooked us a superb pasta meal in the camp kitchen – of course I kept the camper and vino’s in check. Did the Dvd thing again after dishes. Bit of a camp, laundry and spring clean Hugo day tmoro – weather supposed to be good.
Well the weather lived up to the predictions and not a cloud in the sky following morning – so after brekkie set up clothes lines all around Hugo – as well as the tarp out – so could even put the duvee’s, mattresses and cushions out for a breather.
So glad we were down the end away from the rest of the campers – clothes and stuff to kingdom come hanging everywhere – four loads of washing later – hey, looking forward to the feel and smell of clean sheets tonite – it’s the small things that count so they say and their right.
The day turned out so warm that I spent the majority without me shirt on and the girls even donned their bikinis and sun baked for a couple hours.
Not much else – did some reading – a bit of blog updating – lunched and later in the arvo – did a wander thru the town – checked a restaurant for dinner later on that night- picked up a postcard as ya do. (Definitely a place oldies hoard to – the young lasses were not impressed with the average age of the lad in the street – 70 ish with a limp or two as well – those healing powers promise heaps it seems)
Back to Hugo where we put him back together again and took down the three clothes lines- all showered before wandering back into town later on had a very nice and relatively cheap hungarian feed – I feasted on some of the traditional local fare. Girls not so ambitious. Delicious. Had a ice-cream around the corner to use up the last of our Hungarian kuna’s. No Dvd tonite – everybody read before lights out.
Next morning superb again for our next adventure into nearby Slovenia – country no.20 I think. After paying the bill hit the road fairly early – if ya call 10.20am early – hey this camping and ya never see the Spanish or Italians rushing around except on the roads where they all think they are Michael Schumaker’s. So Ces’t La vie to Hungary.
Lake Hevis is around 80k’s from the Slovenian border – once again crossed another border with no checkpoint or even sign saying ya crossed – pulled into a gas station across the border – we know this cause they charged us in euros – the currency of Slovenia. Filled up with gas and had a filled roll each before hittng the highway again. After 10k’s or so of motoring along the higway in Slovenia definite change in scenery – lotsa forests – apparently 65 % off Slovenia is in forest. Getting closer into Autumn now the colours of the leaves as they go from green to the yellows – gives the clusters of forests across the hills a very spectacular look.
The roads are also noticeably better than Hungary’s. Whilst in Hungary did ask a shop owner what Hungary’s main export was – he couldn’t tell me- maybe wine – who knows. No wonder it was in the bottom half of Europe’s cheaper countries but not the cheapest. Anyways we pulled off the main Slovenian motorway which seems to go through the middle of it from one end to the other. Headed for Camping Menina just along from Varpolje another ACSI camp had researched on the net earlier. Up near the Kamnik-Savinja mountains – northern Slovenia, right on the Austrian border.
When we pulled into the camp entrance no one around except for a little old lady who didn’t speak English – just pointed to find a campsite we presumed – the owner back in the morning. Very scenic camp in the countryside, found a nice spot next to the waterhole – half empty – no mossies though. Only us and a couple in a tent in the campground , set up Hugo – pulled out the camp chairs and table – had a cuppa before doin the usual anti-pasto and vino thing – had topped up the fridge and cupboards with supplies when we got across the border.
Fired the barbie up – all enjoyed a good hunk of slovenian steak and salad. Even got out the marshmallows to toast for desert. Sweet as – another Dvd after the girls had done the chores. Hard case toilet block – had a urinal next to the handbasins
And chemical toilet just partitioned off from each other but not the rest of the camp or people walking by. – took a snappie – first one like this seen on tour.
The next morning again – superb warm weather – all showered and brekkied – about to head off when the camp owner (kia ora bro…he greeted us – had been to NZ last summer!) asked us to be in an interent promotion for his campground – which we obliged of course – all donned our kiwi t-shirts first off course – nothing like a bit of patriotism and homeland advertising ourselves. Had a 20 minute spiel to go through about the campground, the local areas, Savinja mountains , Slovenian cuisine and wines etc.etc. by the owner before we got away – we were gonna head straight to Ljbljhana the Slovenian capital but because of the spiel by the camp owner about the local area we decided to explore some more of the mountain scenery he had talked about close by first.
Plied our way up a mountain pass to a place called Logarske Dolina. (supposed to be a fantastic waterfall there…but it’s the end of summer so we saw a wee trickle..ha!) Had lunch and a coffee up there amongst the forest – very picturesque – reminded me a bit of Switzerland and the Scwharzwald of Germany – but with autumn colours . Another interesting fact about Slovenia is because it is 65% covered in forest it also boasts the highest bear population in Europe, thankfully didn’t share our coffee’s and lunch with any.
Back on the road again back the way we came – wasn’t game enough to push Hugo through the mountain trail – very windy and narrow. Back on the motorway easy hour before hitting Ljubljana – headed straight for the campground. Once set-up chilled down at the camp bar/restaurant for a couple local tap beers in the arvo sun. We were camped next to a campervan with Irish no. plates on that we had also camped next to in Vilnius in Lithuania, but didn’t manage to catch up with them there, or at Auschwitz where they were parked as well.
But …we certainly did here and wouldn’t ya know it they were kiwi’s Manesh, Emma & Hamish doing the Europe tour. Shared a couple vino’s and stories as ya do as we cooked dinner on the Barbie again – the weather still warm enough to do so. Swapped info. and some maps on Hungary by us and Croatia by them. We seem to be bumping into kiwis and ozzies on tour a lot at this end of our adventure – certainly more so than the beginning. Dvd before beddyby’s.
Woke up to an unusual morning very hazy and foggy almost – Briar and I up and outta there by 10.00am – girls still in bed – the norm. Difference being we are on tour they are on holiday I guess.
Caught one of the local buses into town – didn’t have change – only enough for one fare – bus driver not to happy – not much we could do – he didn’t have any change at all and the camp didn’t sell bus tickets either. ( a great scheme for those in the know – you just chuck a euro in the drivers see through bin – simple!)
Once near the centre we got off and headed for the main piazza , next to the three bridges, the Ljubljana cathedral , the central food markets all which are next to the Drava river which runs through the middle of Ljubljana – like so many other European cities – rivers being the main motorways of centuries ago. A mini Budapest or Prague really – perhaps a little more cosmopolitan.
Slovenia’s history has a very spasmodic past without to much identity really – being probably part of Yugoslavia for so many years that I can remember until recent times where it became part of a tri-war with Bosnia/Serbia and Croatia who have all sliced up the old Yugoslavia to become their own separate identities.
Did the sightseeing bits as ay do – visiting the castle, museum the olde district – stopped for lunch at a local hangout – excellent panini’s best so far in Europe.
Met up with the girls who had decided to venture into town – we also had decided to have dinner in town – at a traditional Slovenian restaurant – had been given a couple of places by our next door kiwi campers. Stopped for a drink at a bar next to the river – an irish rugby bar – bloody irish are everywhere.
After doing a bit of wandering to find a restaurant – finally found a traditional one – where gotme mushroom soup in a cob loaf and a Slovenian meat platter – excellent hearty soul food. Not quite sure what some of it was but it sure tasted good and plenty off it – had far too much of course.
The girls were far more sedate in their approach to the local fare, mumsie had a good feed of lamb chops (her favourite). Waddled outta there after a couple hours all the girls went for an ice-cream (got a crepe instead to share) – Me far to full for one of those. Did some more wandering the streets of Ljubljana at night, before heading further up to the main drag to catch a bus back to camp. A wee bit of reading by all before – lights out.
Our kiwi neighbours like ourselves were back on the road again- they pulled out a lot earlier than us. Bloody girls take ages to get themselves up and away.
As turned out we weren’t going anywhere very far, as I kicked old Hugo over to get off the chocks – he spluttered a few times before dying on us. The fuel filter was leaking seriously and had given up the ghost- after some much needed help from our camp receptionist – a tow truck appeared half an hour later and Hugo was given a piggy-back ride outta camp to a Fiat truck service centre on the outskirts of Ljubljana.
Whilst it was a bit of a pain and a costly piggy back (tow-truck $140 euros – parts & labour $20.00euros ) ride to get a new part put on – which the Fiat guys did on the back of the tow-truck before firing Hugo into life again. Thank god we didn’t break down whilst in the Savinja mountains, where we had been sightseeing a couple days before – both Briar & I noticed Olde Hugo to be a bit sluggish on the motorways a few days beforehand. (typical girl – I had asked Mark to do up his window as I could feel the ‘drag’ and couldn’t maintain my motorway speed…70mph..trucks were threatening to pass me and I don’t have that happening…now a mechanic I am not…but the writing must have been on the wall for us then)
After a two-hour $160.00 euro interruption – once again we were on our way to Lake Bled – weather being very hazy but with patches of blue sky.
Never quite see this kinda haze over here back in Olde NZ, but seems to be the norm in many countries throughout Europe that we have travelled. Stopped for a bite to eat at a parking bay/toilet stop on the motorway to Bled. Fresh baguette with ham & salad – yum. Pulled into Bled around 2pm – very cloudy day – found a parking lot in the middle and did the wander around.
Once down at the Lakeside – one can see why this is a much heralded and talked about destination for foreigners to come and see. The vibrant turquoise and green colours of the lake are absolutely amazing – only seen these colours once before at Capri Island out from Sorrento in Italy. A shame the weather was so iffy – the colours would certainly have been better again had the sun been shining on the lake. Wandered around the edge for a bit taking in the spectacular colours of not just the lake but the autumn colours of the forests that also line the lake – Also happened to have a castle on top of a rock face which plunged down to the lake – the ever usual cathedral and a little island in the middle of the lake complete also with a Church and monastery. (Catholics loved to have all of the hilltops – everywhere…they must have hated walking up to church on Sundays surely! Some are on massive hills!) Undoubtebly one of the more scenic spots on our adventure so far – certainly in the top five. We also timed our visit right as there was going to be a big celebration the following day at the Park Hotel – one of several hotels around the Lake Bled’s edge. The hotel is famous for the ‘Bled Cream Cake’ which can only be found and bought in Bled . The celebration was that they were up to selling their 10 millionth slice – yes that’s right the 10 millionth slice since the pastry chef at the Park hotel invented this masterful piece of culinary delight.
We decided to stop in and check it out ourselves with a coffee – the place was busy with busloads of tour groups – but we weren’t in a hurry like the tour groups – so we waited a little (long) while before being eventually served. We managed to snare a better table with great views across the lake once the bus loads had gone. The wait was worth it – the coffee wasn’t too bad – but the Bled Cream Cake was divine ( an apt choice of word) . Would surely be one of the best cakes I’ve ever had – very similar to the custard square back home – but way better. Everyone licked their plates clean.
After knocking our tastebuds into heaven (can you tell he has given up smoking!!) we left the Park Hotel rooftop café and headed back to Hugo – made it back just before it peed down. Drove around the lake to the far end where Camp Bled was, booked in and found a spot not to far away from the toilets – being a rainy arvo and predicted night as well. Not a lot for the rest of the arvo – did fire the Barbie up and dodge the raindrops as I cooked under the trees. Had dinner – taught the girls how to play crib – after a few hours of crib – girls got thrashed so gave up – watched a Dvd before drifting off to sleep to the sound of raindrops hitting Hugo’s roof.
The following morning wasn’t much better I’m afraid but it was due to get better in the arvo. After a late start, showers and brekkie the rain had stopped and we decided to catch the miniature train shuttle which shunts around the lake edge once every hour and half we caught it back into town to check out the celebrations and find a place for lunch. The Park Hotel was packed with people, band playing and local notaries and no doubt the upper management of the hotel doing speeches. Managed to get a sneak look and snappie of the giant Bled Cream Cake no doubt were gonna share around for free later. The cake was housed in a 4 x 4m tent and it went right to the edge of the tent each way. None of us fancied hanging around for too long , Ah well another time maybe.
Wandered around the northern side of the Lake found a cute rustic little back street pizzeria where we stopped for pizza and salads. As good as pizza as anywhere had in Europe in fact it was probably better than any had in Italy. – Funny That. After lunch caught the little train back to the other of the lake where we hired a dinghy and all had turns at rowing out to the island in the middle – actually I rowed out and the girls all had turns at rowing back.
Once again now that the sky was clearing the turquoise colours of lake were outstanding. Once on the island had a wee walk around – didn’t bother going in the church or monastery museum cause of an entry fee. Got some nice piccies however - once back on the lake we skirted around the lake edges getting more piccies. After an hour or so, time up on our dinghy hire – rowed back to the dinghy man – as he was only about 100 metres from the camp entry.
Back at camp girls turn to cook dinner but not before a few vino’s and some anti-pasto. Girls had another crack at the Crib after dinner – Chaz even managed to win one game and mumsie the other. All did some reading before lights out. Second last nite before the girls depart on the separate way from us. (Ohhh I will miss them – they stop at shops…and buy girlie stuff…and just like to look as well…)
Woke to a splendid clear blue sky Slovenian morning – very warm early on. After the usual 3x S’s and brekkie – motivated the girls early enough and we hit the trail around 10.00am – headed south back towards Ljubljana – we were actually gonna skirt around on our way to Trieste just north of the Croatian border. The girls had to catch a train from here to Venice ( 2 day stop) before flying onto Paris(3 day stop) and then back to the UK for a week before doing the big one and flying non-stop home to NZ.
Would have liked to have had more time in Slovenia to do a bit more exploring – really only touched the fringes.
Crossed the Italian border around midday – great to see the coastline again after several months it seemed inland – can’t beat the smell of sea air – just something about it. Trieste interesting city at the bottom of a cliff face with a big harbour and port area and a very steep road down to it. A lot going on near the harbour – place jampacked for a Sunday – noticed lotsa stalls near the waterfront. Managed to circumnavigate our way down to the main train station – so the girls could get a train timetable – then headed north towards Malfalcone a small town around 20k’s north of Trieste.
As we drove along the coast road there were hundreds of yachts obviously a part of some huge regatta – stopped and took some piccies even. The temp was around 25/26 degrees – lotsa people along the seashore sunbaking. Excellent.
Pulled into our camp around 2pm set-up camp, had a quick bite to eat and then headed down to the pool – pulled up a sunlounger / had a dip ( water a wee bit chilly) and spent the arvo reading and catching rays. The girls went for a wander into the small village about 500metres back. Could see the yacht’s from where we were – even though we weren,t in a viewpoint site. Little marina down below us – the camp perched 100m or so up the cliff face on a plateau. As we hadn’t grocery shopped for a few days and being a Sunday in Italy – no supermercado’s open.
Had to rustle up a store cupboard- pasta & tomato salsa dinner – had some anti-pasto stuff – so all good.
Now as the days get shorter the sun sets faster – we are eating abit earlier also. As I had swum during the arvo didn’t worry about a shower – the girls all went for one- then had another card evening playing crib – now that the girls have become enthused with it. Girls night again – I did win the first – then mumsie and chaz one the last – poor old Hannah the only one – winless. Once again a bit of reading before lights out – girls last night’s sleep in Hugo forever. Buono notte signora’s.
Well the morning was a complete contrast from the preceding evening – cloudy and windy , had bucketed down several times during the night – once again so glad had packed everything (chairs/table) away in the garage. So only the electric cable and door mat got wet. Hugo’s infamous electric stairs still playing up in the wet, has a mind all of its own when it rains. At least it wasn’t raining as we showered and packed up Hugo , had an early start – the girls needed to catch he train at 9.15am in Malfalcone about a 10 min. drive north of the camp along the coast road. Made it with 15mins. to spare.
Girls all packed up like packhorses – both back and front even with leaving several bulky items behind with us. Took a few last minute piccies – big hugs … a few tears and then we drove on back towards the Croatian border – stopped at a local supermercado – for a few brekkie items only – Briar did a shop while I rode shotgun in Hugo.
Had a bite before we travelled along the main highway south – the closer we got to the border the uglier and wilder the weather got. By the time we got to the Slovenian – Croatian border crossing it was fair pissing down – we thought another relaxed crossing – another wave on through – NOT – when we entered Slovenia no checks. But different story as we left Slovenia.
In fact this was the first time we had been asked to produce our passports for checking- (since Heathrow on Dec 1 last year!!)we were also asked how long we had been in the EU – off course we replied since last December – around 10 months or so.
As we had no border stamps apart from the arrival stamp in Heathrow back on Dec. 1st.
The young Slovenian borderguard who also happened to be a woman said that there was a problem as we were only supposed to in the EU for a max. 90 days unless we had a visa – which of course we didn’t have. So we were told to pull over to the left – OH OH. So we pulled over to the left about 50m up and waited for our little Slovenian blonde borderguard who appeared at the passenger side door 5 mins. later holding our passports. She ranted and raved on about us being illegally in the EU, and that we would need a visa which cost around $400.00 euros to get one. We of course challenged her by saying that we could legally enter each country as long as we didn’t stay longer than the 90 days in each country- which she replied this is not correct, so we played the dumb, ignorant tourist line and look, and fortunately the rain suddenly got really heavy and our borderguard was getting very wet – she handed back our passports and told us we must immediately on arrival in Pula, Croatia go to the Croatian consulate and apply for a EU visa. OK whatever – so shut the door and quickly buggered off in the pouring rain – phew, our first hairy border experience – around 200m further we reached the Croatian border crossing, the usual check out the n. plates and then just waved on through without a blink of an eyelid.
We were later to find out from some fellow kiwi travellers the same blond borderguard had also pulled them over an demanded the $400.00 euro visa cost before they could leave Slovenia – instead they turned around and drove through another border crossing into Croatia without any hassle. No way in the world we were gonna pay for a $400.00 euro visa – with only 10 weeks of the adventure left.
As we drove along the motorway toward Pula the weather that may have saved us from further agony at the crossing, seemed to be clearing the closer we got to Pula. The clouds certainly did have that real stormy, angry look. As we arrived in Pula – for a 2/3 day stop maybe – we headed to a supermercado for a few days supplies. Found a park and both did a shop – had been told that Croatia is one of the safest countries in the world.
Still locked Hugo up as usual – strapped/ deadbolts and all. After a drive through the main centre and port area of Pula we pulled into Camping Stoja, in the Stoja area of course, around 2pm as the rain finally let up booked in for definite 2 maybe 3 nite stay – nice campground which is on a spit at the end of the harbour – about 5 k’s from the centre - found a spot not with an edge water view but sheltered from the weather which was not supposed to let up for the arvo and night.
So once plugged in we bunkered down for the night. Both snuck out for a shower later on – but both also enjoying the extra room and space at our disposal – seemed like ages since we had the camper to ourselves – in fact around 5 weeks. Had a nice chicken stir-fry dinner – a bit of reading and watched a Dvd before donning the horizontal mode. The weather didn’t pack it in either but as we awoke the next morning the sun had again come out and the clear blue sky had also returned – the temp had also dramatically improved on the previous day. Laundry chores first before hitting the metropolis of Pula. Shifted Hugo into a sunnier spot where could hang the clothes in the sun all day long. In the middle of a dozen or so campervanners full of deutchlanders and dutchies. Got the bikes down – decided to cycle into Pula being around 5 k’s out – nice little ride into town. Made some filled rolls – packed the backpack with some water and off we treddled. Did the olde town part as ya do Cathedral,main piazza the roman temple of Augusta and then onto Pula’s most famous landmark the Amphitheatre – one of the better preserved and intact ruins in Europe – they still even hold concerts there today.
We sat in it and ate our filled rolls. Cycled also up to the Venetian citadel which dominates the highest hill in Pula – then back down into the Arch of Sergius which is almost smack in the pedestrian shopping part of Pula . Interesting fruit & veg markets.
Rode home after an ice cream folded up the washing – did some wifiing over a couple beers at the camp bar. Pasta for dinner – Dishes – Dvd – sleep.
Up and outta amp Stoja early, sun shining again, but alas also plenty of cumulus cloud about also and the wind is back – big day driving down the Croatian coast – had to back track a bit to Rijeka – Briar freaking about running outta diesel – found a station near Rijeka – stopped for a coffee same time. Kept the worms at bay – on we drove – bypassed Rijeka – big port area very twisty windy main highway through here – nice to be near the coast again – the scenery is very much like the coast’s of Spain and Portugal – very rocky with conifers everywhere growing out of the cracks in the rocks.
Briar driving today - big effort lotsa winding road following the coastline – ducking in and out of inlets and coves for km after km – in fact near around 180 k’s all up. On ya girl. A very pretty drive I thought
No sign of any farming along this coastline – rock, rock and more rock as Briar said in her diary almost moonscape looking, but with the land and mountainous landscape dropping shear into crystal clear seas in shades of blues, greens and mostly turquoise. Spectacular stuff.
Stopped at a supermarket in Senj – nice roast chickens – decided to have a bite in the carpark which had spectacular views of the coast and Adriatic sea. Then the 180 k along the coast road before we pulled into our destination Camp Oaza Mira in a very scenic coastal village of Drage – great campsite in a great cove with excellent facilities. Fired the Barbie up and cooked a couple lamb chops under a starlit Croatian sky. Was a bit of windchill factor in there, not for hardarse kiwi’s but. A few other campervanners – not many.
Had a camp day following day – chilling really – aired the mattresses and duvet etc. a small load washing. Also moved Hugo up into a sunnier spot and also a better free wifi signal. Trying to organise payment for our forthcoming ferry crossings to Italy and then down to Greece. After lunch strolled around our little slice of Croatian heaven the cove and inlet complete with mini harbour and fishing boats – took piccies of the seawater – so clear unbelievable.
Even a few of the campers suntanning on the sheltered beach side away from the wind.
BBq chicken and veggies for tea tonite – lukewarm showers – reading – lights out.
A day of sightseeing along the way today – about 30 k’s further down the road from our camp we headed inland around 10k’s to the KRKA National park – where the Skradinski Buk ( Cascading waterfalls) are. A naturally formed series of waterfalls from the lake. A swift descent into the valley after paying for the $8.00 euro entry fee, good thing you can drive in. Parking down the bottom – as we were driving down looked pretty spectacular. Once parked, armed with map we hit one of the several wooden boardwalks that weave and intersect – along ,over , around the waterfalls – took around 1 ½ hours – but nice easy walk – wonderful scenery and magnifique waterfalls – plenty of piccies as you would expect.
Drove back up the top to where all the buses stop, so that the stall holder selling local products and wares can rip-off the tourists. Had a bite to eat before truckin on south toward Ploce – where we would catch a ferry across to the island of Peljesac – took the inner new motorway route – free – but not finished last 20 k’s into Ploce. Once again talk about moonscape scenery – even more so than when on the coast. In fact the final 20k’s down through a valley of cultivation – mostly vines but also noticeably citrus trees. Perhaps the only two things that can grow in this harsh environment. Pulled into Ploce around 5.00pm had a 2 hour wait before the ferry arrived – so did a supermarket shop at the local Lidl to kill some time. Waited at the port in line for the 7.00pm car ferry to arrive and leave again. Thought had to buy ticket on board – wrong – helpful ferry man raced us a cross the street to ticket office so could get on. – phew – Briar needed the exercise. Ay girl.
So once Hugo on board the ferry we sat inside in the passenger part- very dark by now and the clouds had rolled in and the wind had also picked up – oh no more crappy weather on the way by the feel of things. Pulled into Trpanj port on the island of Peljesac around 8pm – had another 15 k’s to go over the island to get to our campground near Orebic. Pulled in – no one around at reception – so just found a site – plugged in both showered and ate dinner around 10pm.
Both crashed to the sound of wind rustling through the pine trees surrounding the camper and site. No pine cones fell on the roof during the night – but very cloudy drab and ominous looking day – the forecast not crashhot either. Still we drove Hugo down to Orebic wharf where we caught another ferry out to the island of Korcula – as passengers this time – 20-25min trip .
Hooked up with some german tourists shared the cab fare into Korcula centre – about a 4k walk into town and the weather looked as though it was gonna fair piss down any minute. It did so about an hour later – but it did give us an hour to explore without being peed on. Korcula is a quaint little medieval village built on a small rocky peninsula on the northeastern tip of Korcula island – it is also the birthplace of Marco Polo and his brothers. We even climbed the tower he would spend many an hour as a child surveying the Adriatic seas – his house which is next door which is basically a shell now.
As with many medieval villages and towns we have now strolled the interweaving cobbled lanes never cease to amaze and enthral one’s temperament to explore some more. Had a coffee and some local cake (that non smoker again) in a coffee shop down one of the cobbled backlanes – which had a big Kiwi sign over the door.
Good enough for us.
Watched abit of soccer on the telly at one of the island bar’s as the weather again set in. Cleared enough for a few more piccies before a rendevous with our cab driver to take us back to the port terminal to catch the ferry back to Orebic. Had parked next to a smaller campervan back at Orebic harbour – had a NZ sticker on it – they left us a note under the wipers. Drove back to camp and did some wifi-ing before dinner – Weather still crappy according to the internet – supposed to get worse – great.
Still onwards tmoro we will roll. Once again windy and overcast morning – booked outta camp – shot across the road from the camp to the supermercado, very handy – Briar picked up a few supplies and on we went toward Dubrovnik. Had around 50k’s of windy Peljesac Island roads (and I seem to land the corners and gear shifts – call it a trip to the gymn really…) before getting back on to the mainland near Ston – had a spectacular stone wall which amazingly went up and over the hill down the other side and surrounded a citadel. Almost vertical in some places. Amazing but weird and still standing 6 centuries later.
Short drive into Dubrovnik –huge bridge to cross as we approached Dubrovnik – built out on a headland sought of- three cruise ships in port - headed straight to our campground – picked up a loaf fresh bread on the way in and near our campground Solitudo ( expensive camp – had free wifi I guess) facilities average – a few campervanners like us around weathering the shit weather. Bunkered in for lunch and a few hours of wifing – braved the elements late r in the arvo did a walk around our headland area.
Lotsa empty apartments and hotel rooms – quite amazing for this time of year – thought might have been a few more sightseers around. Managed to even dodge the raindrops - Gas top dinner tonite – showered and then wified and a Dvd huddled in bed together. Cam – Briar’s nephew has arrived in Split – will catch up with him in a day or two. The rain and wind didn’t let up most of the night and only improved marginalyl next morning. Showered and brekkied – we donned our wet weather gear and headed out into the elements. Briar even brave enough or stupid enough to wear shorts, she was wondering why everyone was looking at her – don’t figure huh. (a farmer thing – wet trousers – cold all day – wet legs –they dry pretty quickly…)
At the end of the day it is only water.
Caught the bus into the old walled town of Dubrovnik - once again a walled off town on a peninsula – this perhaps abit bigger and more spectacular than Korcula. The orange tiled roofs – stone faced facades of the buildings with years of sea and rainwater complimenting their colour and hue. It was a real shame we were going to experience such a wonderful place on such a shitty day.
The marbled streets, the baroque buildings, narrow alleys, monastery, several churches, fountains, stairs everywhere and its charming little port harbour would look resplendent under a clear blue Mediterranean sun. Not so under persistent rainfall and
gale force winds popping sightseers umbrellas inside out everywhere – ducking and diving, we managed to enter most of the attractions before finding a charming little side alley taverna for some lunch – a small front room about the size of Hugo – the lady packed us in together with three other tables of tourists – staying out of the rain and filling up on some warm food.
We both had soup and shared a seafood platter. The service, Croatian charm of the hostess and the antiquated surroundings more than made up for the average food. She did invite us back for dinner, but no way hosay. Hugo’s kitchen is leaps and bounds ahead. The worms weren’t complaining. The weather had finally let up whilst we were feeding the worms as planned. So we headed straight for the wall which circumnavigates the perimeter of the old town, well worth the 5 euros – If ya coming to Dubrovnik, the best view is via the wall walk with out a doubt.
Managed to do it with only a brief shower part way through – lotsa snappies. Then caught the bus home to Hugo – where we both headed for hot showers before more wifiing, dinner and a Dvd. The rain did let up for the night – but the wind did not.
Not much of a better picture the following morning as we headed north again to Split – the sun did appear as we approached the Croatian/Bosnian border crossing – don’t know if that was a good sign or not – but pretty much as usual – look at the no. plate no passports -anything to declare – no – drive on through. Had about 25/30 k’s Bosnian coastal countryside not too much different to Croatian coastal countryside – funny that.
Same thing again as we drove through the Bosnian/Croatian border – check the no. plates – no passports - anything to declare – dirve on through – made Split around 3pm – booked into camp Strobec – met Cam who showed up at our site about half an hour later – the sun was shining – a little windy – settled into our prime seafront possie – absconded some camp chairs and a table set the Barbie – invited some fellow campers who came over for a chat to dine with us – BYO meat and vino.
Did the antipasto thing and chilled, chewing the fat with Cam and our two new dutch friends – Chris & Kim ( had spent time in NZ & Oz before coming on their European adventure – So could almost speak the kiwi/oz lingo no worries mate.
Wined and dined long into the night as ya do when ya having fun and enjoying some English speaking company while on tour. Cam crawled into our bed at the back of Hugo – a lot more comfortable and warmer I’m sure than his pup tent.
Windy sunny day again – everyone a little slow this morning – did some laundry – then headed into town around midday. Wandered along the port/ferry areas , so could check out the prices etc.etc for our Split-Ancona crossing for next week and also times and costs for ferries out to Hvar island.
Wandered around the Diocletians Palace a square an almost impenetrable fortress – walls are around 5m metres thick in some places . Unfortunately vastly overrun with tourist, souvenir stalls, cafes and designer brand shops nowadays. Not too much different to most other ancient attractions throughout Europe – hey even we do it at home. Cam had spent a couple days in town before we got there so knew the lowdown or layout I should say.
Ran into another Kiwi couple, Vaughan and Briony, had spoken to earlier when catchin the bus into town – invited them over for a Barbie tonite – along with our two new dutch lady friends – all good. Stopped for barbi supplies at the local supermercado on way back to camp. All washing dry – folded – packed away in cupbd’s. Bit of reading before – doing the nibbles and Barbie thing again.
Once again a good night sharing stories, adventures, memories with all and washed down with good Croatian red. Not in the copious amounts of the preceding night – Much more control shown by Briar, a precedent not shared by me. Packed it in earlier as well tonite – might have something to do with the chill factor in the wind.
The predicted stormy weather arrived again in full force during the night and very crappy day next day – a nothing south of a day – reading and Dvd’s interrupted only by lunch, dinner and a sprint across to the toilet block. The way nature had the wind and horizontal rain working wasn’t much else to do today and I’m afraid to say Friday wasn’t a whole lot better in the morning – the weather did finally clear up in the late arvo and even the sun poked its head through for an hour or so before sunset. Briar and I went for a stroll around the promenade around the corner – also picked up something for dinner. Have fed Cam up since we arrived – been surviving on sandwiches last few weeks – not operating on the budget Mumsie and I have, he is starting to get colour again in his cheeks and looks a lot healthier. Scurvy look gone.
The next morning was clear again but still with patchy and high clouds dotting the horizons. Today we were packing our bags and doing a Hvar island run for a couple days – Cam can hold the fort with Hugo and gives him some time to sort his passage back to Amsterdam and then back to Ireland before also heading home to NZ – November 9th.
We bused into Split centro around 2pm – had a 3.30pm fast ferry to catch out to Hvar on the island of Hvar. The cloud had come back in – no rain just high overcast cloud. The catamaran trip out fairly uneventful – passed a couple islands on the way out. Pulled into Hvar port/harbour around 4.30pm. Hadn’t booked accommodation – so bombarded by locals trying to offer an apartment or room for the night – avoided most of them – was one persistent little chap who kept coming back – we stopped – looked around and picked a set of steps – headed on up – first Hotel (which happened to be one of the only still open) Park Hotel. Nice quaint looking recently renovated hotel. Checked out the price – inc. breakfast – this will do us not to far out of the square – nice /clean and modern looking inside the foyer area. Booked in and ended up on the second floor with a one bedroom apartment with living room, all very nicely done out and with superb views of the port/harbour across the rooftop- I say roof top because there was basically only one between us and the port.
After unpacking bags – did the walk and check out the local patch thing – walked around the promenade in one direction first on the town side – before losing ourselves in amongst the alleyway of Hvar . Also checked out a couple places to head back for dinner. A bit of TV – even if it was BBC and some more soccer – and did have some English speaking films on one channel – fairly outdated – but I always enjoyed Colombo and Gregory Peck. Had free wifi as well – so did a little surfing too.
Went for dinner at a earlier spotted taverna – charming little Croatian lass who spoke fluent English served us – we being their only customers at the time.
So wined and dined on local fare ( wonder what Cam’s cooking for dinner tonite I thought) in a nice ambient and traditional surroundings.
Food was a wee bit better than average – nothing sensational. After dinner and a stroll back to our hotel we both watched some TV and chilled on the couch before hitting the king sized bed – yahoo.
Picked the weather right as the next morning not a cloud to be seen and talk about warm trev, 25 degrees – did the exploratory sightseeing the ruins and Hvar’s most noted highpoints – we both slept in abit so after our inclusive brekkie ( very good)
We hiked up the hill to the Venetian Fortress on top of the hill – about the third Venetian fortress way up on a hill weve visited here in eastern and southern Europe.
Excellently preserved fortress with sensational views over the town, harbour and the Pakleni Islands.
The Venetians sure knew what they were doing when they built these almost impregnable fortresses. This one even had a small museum inside – with a few old relics and archaeological remnants from days gone by. Had the place almost to ourselves the entire time we were there.
After that we came back down the hill and wandered around to a few more bays further around – weaved our way through some alleys and roads down to the promenade walkway which circumnavigates the coastline for 3 or 4 k’s both ways from Hvar port. Passed a couple of topless whales no doubt northern European working on their breast tans. Passed many shut down beachside bars and then passed the 5 star Hotel Amphora –with its cascading pools down to its private beach – with own boardwalks/ changing rooms and spa complex.
Nobody there at the mo – except a few of the guests / some locals and maybe some nosy tourists like us potting around. Continued walking around till we got back to the port area – scored a baguette and some ham/cheese for lunch. Then packed the backpack with our swimmers / a water bottle / some books and mandarins and some ready supplied hotel beach towels – made a beeline back to the Amphora Hotel boardwalks along the coastline – which were nice and private – bonus had steps down into the water or we could chill on their private pebble beach.
We chose the boardwalk as did a couple of others. I braved the sea water whilst Briar sunned herself. The water was cool at first from the heat of the day – but once in and swimming around it was as cool as it gets at home in the summer. Main difference being the clarity of the water is truly amazing – ya think ya can touch the bottom and its metres away. You can also float without having to kick or keep moving – the buoyancy of the water also truly amazing. Splashed about for a good 10 minutes before lying on the towel and reading me Mafia story novel. Spent the rest of the arvo reading/tanning and did brave the water once more. Back at the hotel showered and did some more TV surfing the channels – BBC being the only English one consistently became the preferred channel.
Around seven pm we headed down to the hotel restaurant and like last night we were the only customers. We were well looked after by the young hotel waiter Mati with a sense of humour, who had befriended us because we took the time to acknowledge his shaking hand trick – which the other guests didn’t. So we got the good treatment compared to them. Both dined on superb tasting and cooked Croatian beef steaks with a fig/brandy and red wine consumme – buonissimo.
Headed back up to our room both full as bulls (was that a pun MC ) spent the remainder of the evening chilling on the couch ion front of the TV – happened to be a Harry Potter movie on. Both have really enjoyed the extra luxury and space of a building as opposed to Hugo’s limited space but home is home and Hugo has been home for the past 10 months.
Briar has also enjoyed having her own bathroom as well.
Up around 9.00am – breakfast with our shakin hand mate Mati for the last time – even left him a tip. Managed to sneak in a haircut – more like a trim really – the hairdresser arrived as I got there – but was told to disappear for 10 minutes so could make herself ready – huh . WOMAN ??
Packed the bags and caught the free shuttle to Stari Grad where our ferry back to Split left – cost Eu22.00 each on the fast catamaran out and Eu35.00 each on the slow ferry back – don’t kinda figure. Pulled into Split harbour around 2pm caught the bus back out to camping Strobec – more ozzies at the camp ground – cam had dined with the night before – so had them over for a Barbie as ya do – well certainly as Briar and I do. Nice west Australian couple – Clinton & Kelly doin their European tour – been at it awhile longer than most we have shared a Barbie with – been to Turkey shared some stories and camping addresses with us – sweet as.
Not so many raptures about Greece however – broke down their – took 6 weeks to get sorted – far too long to spend in Greece unless you’re on a beach.
They like us were heading off the next morning to another destination – they were heading toward Slovenia – we had a ferry to catch to Italy. The weather superb for our last day in Croatia – no real rush – didn’t have to get out of camp till midday – so we didn’t left poor old Cam behind with his Pup tent for one more night before he caught a bus to Frankfurt – before another bus to Amsterdam.
We didn’t have to catch our Ferry till 7pm so we drove up to Trogir for lunch – picturesque little town about 20 k’s north of Split- quaint harbour and old town. Killed a few hours before heading back to drop Cam off at Strobec camp before we made a beeline for the Jardojlina ferry terminal at Split port. Whilst waiting at the terminal for to dock our ferry we ran into Andrew an ozzie chap we shared some banter over coffee with in Prague – he had been to several other countries catching up with family and friends – amazing stuff – he was just as blown away as we were to see each other – had a cuppa with him in Hugo while waiting to catch our ferries. Docked the ferry about 6,30pm – we did manage a stroll along the Split harbour promenade at night – took some piccies.
Uneventful crossing as one would expect at night – fairly rocknrolla crossing – both managed to sneak a couple hours shut eye – but both pretty weary by time we docked in Ancona around 7.00am next morning. Least it was another superb fine morning – Italian soil again – molto buono – maybe – Did the border crossing thing – did require to show both our passports – 2nd time only on whole trip – we did however get our very first stamp since arriving in Heathrow almost 11months ago. Ancona typical Italian port all mayhem and disorder to the max – not really but seemed like that, compared to the ultra-smooth northern countires of Europe.
We found a quiet local (8K’s outta town ) supermarket car-park where we put blinds up and went to sleep for a few hours. Woke around midday – went did some shopping and headed back down the port area around 1pm to pick up our tickets and queue for our 1st camping on-board experience on the Ancona to Patras ferry trip.
After some messing around finally found the ticket office – scored our pre-booked tickets then found the queue for our ferry – which they happened to be loading so had some brunch in the queue whilst we waited. On board around 2.30pm – sailed off 3.30pm
- Four other campervanners on board – one we knew to be a kiwi family as was told by ticket office lady that a kiwi family were doing the same crossing as we were.
So as ya do – as we were hooking up to the on-board power – introduced me self to John & Tracey a couple from Waiuku doin their big OE tour with their two daughters.
Chatted as ya do – swapped back home stuff, travel stories , info. , books – paperbacks actually etc.etc – hey this is the world of campervanners/travellers – can ya dig it.
Briar & I both did separate tours of the cruise ship – which is pretty much what it is – we will travel back to Ancona on this ship in early December– but won’t be able to camp on board then. We will have a cabin instead.
I had a shave & a shower in the cruise ship showers – all OK – hadn’t been able to for 1 ½ days or so. Nice – clean –yum. We cooked down below – the signs said no gas – they should have said it in English – idiots. Watched a Dvd before drifting off to sleep with the gentle rolling motion one has when cruising across the seas. Being open ya can stand and watch the moonlight shimmer across the seas from your campervan window – cool stuff.
I slept well – not sure Briar did – pulled into Igounimetsa around 9.00am next morning and Patras around 1.00pm – no checking or stamping of passports here as we disembarked and bid farewell to john & tracey – perhaps we will catch up with them somewhere in Greece. They had around a 3 week time – frame compared to our 5 week. We ended up going left instead of right – but that’s Ok – pulled into a fuel stop and filled up and then went back in the right direction to get to our next destination. As we now have no Delilah(tom-tom/GPS) to guide us to where we need to get – its down to maps and road signs –and have you ever tried to read Greek ( fun & games) – they did have the signs in English also but they were another 100 metres or so further down the road – right next to where ya are supposed to make right or left turn.
The terrain very similar to Croatia – very rocky – lotsa confiers about – also very similar style housing to Italy and Croatia – all concrete block and concrete unispan floors – generally 2 sometimes 3 storey high and majority unfinished but obviously people living in them – clothes hanging on the clotheslines on the unfinished third floor obvious sign.
From first appearances place also a bit grubby like Italy – no sense of pride in their surroundings and as for their driving, well …Thought we left plenty crazy bastards behind in Italy – not – plenty of them here as well – ya wonder what there hurry is – ya live on an island ya numskulls.
Had about 100 k’s or so to our campground Paradise camping on Pelop and of course a shit load of Olive trees everywhere. We pulled into our campground Paradise on
Peloponese Island – not far from Olympia – where the in the first Olympic games were held of course and where the torch bearers flame is lit and then carried each year to the next Olympic games venue from here.
Had beachfront possie as no one else but us in the camp. Toilet /shower block looked as though hadn’t been used or cleaned for a few weeks – did have hot water. In Greece they have waste bins next to the loos – as you are not supposed to put any form of paper down the loo to be flushed . Hence the waste bins in every toilet stall – no matter where one parks oneself in Greece.
Enjoyed a wonderful sunset with our Barbie and vino. Both enjoying the peace and tranquillity – read till we crashed. The sunrise not quite so majestic – but there was a fisherman pottering about in his little boat trying to catch something. Little bit of cloud around as we brekkied and showered – sun did poke itself through as we drove outta camp Paradise – headed to Olympia, where we parked Hugo up – several tour buses there and shitloads Taxi’s – Parked under an Olive tree and wandered in – payed the entry fee.
The layout and complex was well constructed – but the earthquakes had definitely altered the look – as mostly ruins with everything scattered about or toppled over – A few coluimns remained standing and a few had been rebuilt to give one the idea of its grandeur. The whole complex was basically about training athletes to compete against each other in the stadium which was impressive – did the Maximus salute in there – piccies of lotsa big stones and ruins.
Cute little town Olympia – after we finished strolling around the ruins – we checked out Olympia museum and then wandered into town – picked up a spinach pie and a greek baguette for lunch. When we got back to Hugo all the tour buses and taxis gone, left only us and a couple empty campervans in the carpark – sweet. Nice quiet carpark for lunch. Travelled onto Messini just outside Kalamata (where we had a huge deluge ) so much so that it was about 12 inches deep on some parts of the road – stopped in between deluges at a supermarket ( Carrefours sign – but they call it something else can’t pronounce)
Briar in turning along the route managed to put a dent in Hugo’s rear. Bugger
Headed further around the coastline where we stopped in a cute little village called Petaldi – a campervan stop ( free camp) on the marina – Briar a bit freaked – me she be jake mate. Had dinner and read some before lights out. Had the odd stare and car drive slowly passed – but we both slept fairly well – woke to a brilliantly fine and clear morning – the stormy clouds had rolled on through. headed off around 9.00am back through Kalamata – this navgating without Delilah not too bad and toward Mystras – a supposedly worthwhile archealogical /ruins site worth checking out – when we got there and saw it was basically another fortress way up on a hill with another entry fee – decided to turn around in the carpark and hightail it outta there. Drove on to Sparta where we stopped for a coffee and some Spanokopita ( filo wrapped spinach and feta ) delicious – the coffee bit of let down.
Drove smack through the middle of downtown Sparta – traffic congestion diabolical even had to forcefully use Hugo’s size to make people reverse outta our way. It was also market day – which why there was a shitload of traffic about.
Then we circumnavigated the alps I mean some mountains – felt like the alps – took about 2 hours to drive 58 k’s – up one side in 2nd gear then down the other in 2nd gear weaving down and up the mountains – made it to Nafplio around 1pm – good on ya Hugo. Parked in the carpark with around 7 other campervanners – another free campervanner stop.
A very picturesque little town stuck on the edge of a bay – Cruise ship parked out further in the bay. We walked up the hill to wait for it …another Venetian fortress on a hill with a supreme defensive position which commands views over the surroundings – Lonely planet says a mini Venice – not really – there certainly weren’t any canals – but very picturesque liitle town with a very nice little harbour/port. Found an internet café to do some much needed Wifi stuff – man how would ya do without now.
Did the climb up to the fortress – 400 steps or so had a few breathers along he way – didn’t actually go in – entry fee again which would mean spending a couple of hours to do it justice – but phenomenal views from up here. Back down again wandered through the lanes and alleyways. Snappies here and there – back to the parking lot – chatted to a kiwi and pommie couple before heading off around the corner – around 8 k’s or so – found a campsite – excellent or more appropriate cute camp with free wifi – very nice owners and OK facilities – cooked dinner in the camp kitchen with some Argentinian couple on tour.
Amazing who ya run into and have conversations with on tour. Really nice couple who were once again doing the European tour like us . Sharing conversation with strangers from different cultures/backrounds is amazing to us and to them. But one can appreciate the dominance of the English language on our travels as they all speak it enough no matter where they are from to hold conversation with a couple of kiwis from downunder.
Enjoyed dinner the free wifi and a quiet place to rest our heads and sleep safe and sound. November the first today – the journey’s end is near – probably only a couple more updates to go now – anyhows after brekkie and a hot shower off to Epidavouros another ancient Mycanaean civilisation and city ruins mid morning –
but with an an almost intact amphitheatre with only modest replacements here and there . No entry fee –sign on the gate saying free entry – yeayy. Outstanding natural amphitheatre built almost 5000 years ago and still here – with acoustics as good as any modern designed theatre today – but this one is open air. Would have been nice to have it to ourselves – something of a rarity anywhere in Europe I’d say these days. Managed some pics without anyone else in them – Awesome place – if I don’t see another ruin or temple then this will do me.
Wandered through some more toppled ruins and another stadium – equally as impressive as Olympia. Then onto Mycanae another village of ruins sitting on top of a hill – another equally impressive place built again 5000BC – the engineering feats of these bygone civilisations – amazing – what was also amazing that this was free entry also – timed it right for our visists today.
Oustanding views over the surrounding valley and the bay right back down to Nafplio.
Had some lunch in the carpark before heading on to Corinth – where more ruins – did not stop for these as according to the Lonely Planet (maybe not worth checking out) – we drove over a bridge across the famous Isthmus a 23m wide by 8km long channel carved out of the rock some 50 years ago by dutch engineers for getting ships from the Aegean sea to the Adriatic without having to circumnavigate around the Cyclades and Peloponese island itself. Another marvel or blight of human interference with the landscape, Then straight on into Athens – 4 lanes traffic both ways and a side boom – which the odd impatient speedster tended to use rather than the appropriate outside lanes. Hey this Greece crazy drivers.
After refuelling we managed to find our campsite without to much difficulty – did take an illegal U-turn to get to it on one of the main drags...now we know how to fit in with the locals!
Pulled in around 2pm – checked in and set up Hugo. Will be here for a week at least if not more. The main drag a very busy and noisy road by the sounds of things – will definitely be using the earplugs here. Still, a good camp with good facilites and free Wifi – which can do anywhere in camp – great means can sit at the table inside Hugo and do the surfing the net thing. Spent the arvo reading and doing Wifi stuff, then dinner.
After dinner we happened to be washing up our dishes at the campground sinks and we recognised a familiar voice babbling on to a couple poms – low and behold Kiwi Kane who we’ve shared a few barbies, vino’s and bullshit with in Budapest with him and his good lady Fiona. Well, they piled over as soon as they knew we were here – armed of course bottles in hand .
But that’s another story and one in which you will have to wait until the next update.
Second last update – till next time as the Greek say andio for now.