November Update 2009

1. Spice markets, Istanbul, Turkey
2. Streets of Naphlio, Peloponese Island, Greece
3. Briar, MC, Fiona and Kane - sharing home made pizza in Hugo, Kavala, Greece
4. Sunset from our balcony, Fira, Santorini, Greek Islands
5. Oia village, Santorini, Greek Islands
6. Monastery at Meteora, Greece
7. Kane ,Fiona ,MC , Anne , Mike camping at Anzac Cove, Gallipoli, Turkey
8. Briar at the Epidavros Amphitheatre, Peloponese Island, Greece
9. Briar, Cameron and MC - old town streets of Split, Croatia
10. Briar & MC pictureque Hvar town behind, Croatia
11. Blue Mosque , Istanbul, Turkey
12. Fisherman at sunset, Avyalik, Turkey
13. Anzac Cove. Gallipoli, Turkey
15. Anna, Mike, Briar, Kane, Fiona and me Standing in front of the Haghia Sofia mosque in Istanbul, Turkey
16. Acropolis in Athens through Hadrians gate


November 2009 Update

Great to catch up with some new found friends and fellow travellers again.
We awoke to a greyish cloudy day – no rain but plenty of ominous signs. Decided to head into the wharf area at Pireaus to change our ferry crossing date back to Italy –
Will head back a week earlier – caught the 845 bus across the road from the camp – bit like playing Russian roulette crossing, even with pedestrian crossings, Greece same as in Italy don’t mean a thing.
About a ¾ hour drive down allsorts of one-way lanes and back streets. Getting around in Athens in any mode of transport is diabolical- not only are the drivers crazy but the roading and roading system develops within itself chaos. The housing also is the same as the roading system – diabolical – numerous unfinished housing all over the place, nothing uniform or any thought to town planning – urban sprawl at its maddest. But hey that’s maybe what makes Athens – Athen’s – not for me – too much disorder. Will enjoy the 5 or so days that I’m here though – that will be enough. The bus stops right outside the ferry terminals (where you catch the boats/ships to the Greek islands, Crete, Turkey etc.etc.) . Found the Anek Lines offices – changed our dates – no problemo – took all of 15 minutes. Back to the Pireaus metro station caught the train back into Athens centro or Syntagynatos place – where we also searched for the Fantasy Travel offices to book in a small Greek Island jaunt for five days.
Found fantasy travel – and who should we bump into again – Kane & Fiona also checkin out a greek island jaunt. We both ended up booking on the same ferry couple days later – but they were only staying 3 nights at Santorini – we decided to do 5 nights – 3 nights at Santorini and 2 nights at Paros. Around 40 minutes later we walked out with all the ferry tickets and hotel documentation – Yahoo – Greek Islands here we come. $600 euro for both of us including ferries, transfers & pick-ups at each port and brekkie included each hotel.
So both feeling rather smug we set of for some lunch in downtown Plaka – one of the older and very touristy areas of Athens – the usual cobbled lanes and alleys – our greek travel agent at fantasy travel told us of a neat café to check for lunch – after some meandering and backtracking we managed to find it OK. Cute local little café called Mesina – not the most impressive menu I’ve seen on me travel. A few locals here though, must be OK.
Had a mixed mese type plate with Greek coffee – more like an espresso shot but with a cm of coffee sludge in the bottom ( Everywere in Greece the coffee is bloody expensive ) – ridiculously so. Briar had a chicken dish – average.
Wandered through some more lanes and alleys packed with souvenirs. Stopped for some meat for a Barbie on the way back to camp. Had previously invited Kane & Fioan over for a Barbie. When we got back to camp had some new neighbours next site over ayoung couple he Kiwi (Hawkes bay boy - Steve) she from Canada (Sara) – doing there European tour after a 18 month working stint in London. So invited them over to join us also. Nothing like a few kiwis & ozzies around a camp fire, even if it is a charcoal Barbie on legs. Off course the wine – antipasto and the bullshit flowed most of the night as it does – always interesting to hear of others travel stories and adventures.
Our young pommie couple from next door arrived home later and also joined in for a couple bevies before bedtime. The night air down to around 12/13 at night – just on the edge for some to be braving it. A great night.
The next morning back to rainy – cloudy day – a few non-rain patches – did some Wifiing – good free signal from campervan – then headed into town and check out the Athens Archaelogical museum – caught the 16B bus to our metro ride out to Viktoria stop. We popped up outta the underground around midday and spied a Souvlaki diner – fresh kebabs being grilled on the lengthy 3 metre long indoor barbie – once again place packed with young locals – good sign – weren’t disappointed excellent tender kebabs with chips lemon and bread -$10.00 euros for us both. The rain as it does started as we started to wander around in circles looking for the museum, extreme lack of signage to sights – after an hour or so with a couple of young Italian girls also looking for it – we found it – but don’t ya know it – closes daily except Mondays at 3pm – it was now 1.45pm – still we raced around looking at more amazing Mycanaen, Eygptian and some roman artefacts, stone/marble statues and some very impressive gold masks/jewellery/coins – amazing to think that they were producing metals not just gold – but also other metal composites for tools, weaponry and protective clothing, etc. 5000-6000 BC. We were hurriedly ushered out I might add, at least five minutes before 3pm. (some things are done RIGHT on time…)
Rain bucketing down again as we left – made a beeline for the metro – back out to our bus stop – tried a different route – not a good idea – both got a bit wet waiting for our bus – luckily we had our coats so managed to stay a bit dry. Back at camp around 5pm. Talk about bumping into people – John and Tracey – who we met on the ferry across to Greece were parked up opposite us . Pulled in around an hour ago. So had a wee chat to them,
Swapped more info. etc. told them we were heading out to the islands tmoro for a few days – told them also about fantasy travel – who they were also keen to check out about the islands also. Quieter night – Kane & Fiona came over to discuss plans for our early start inda morning- 6.00am start – they still had to pick up their ferry tickets.
Dinner – Wifi-ing– Dvd and then bed – Tracey popped over for another chat in between.
Up at sparrows fart – well before even – stars still out – at least there were bloody stars and not greyish skies above. (whu do we do this to ourselves – it really is hard work!) Quick showers/ quick brekkie – packed bags and off to round up the other two – who had slept in off course – still we were waiting for a bus 5 minutes later across the other side of the road from the camp. First one along a A15 – sweet – do us – surprisingly busy for that time of the morning – Athens like most big cities in the world (this one has as many people as whole of NZ) it never stops. Then did the metro thing out to Pireaus port, where all the ferries leave to different islands – etc. – couple of passenger liners in docked.
Finally it got lighter and the sun poked its head up as we picked up Kane & Fi’s tickets and boarded our ferry – decked out rather nicely – it would want to be - 8 hours on this bucket could tend to be rather boring otherwise. The other two wuffed into some coffee and brekkie – since not time before we left. Thirty minuto’s later we were off – amazing the speed these boats- I should say ships get up to so quickly and the manouverabilty Trev – unbelievable.
Once we got out to open seas – had a fair old 2/3m swell rolling even this size ship about abit. Briar not feeling so well – she headed up for some fresh air on the back upper sundeck. Rather crowded inside so headed up to keep her company, ended up staying there the duration of the trip. (am only okay in the fresh air on lumpy seas – even not so lumpy actually…)
The sun shone all the way out with a few showers over the horizons, still that European haze around though. Stopped in Paros firstly , then Naxos and then Ios before pulling into our stop Thira or Santorini as we foreigners call it. Got stuck into a few Heineken’s along the way. We pulled into the entrance of the harbour or caldera of Thira Island around 3.30pm as the sun was casting its light across the supremely white toned buildings of Thira- very impressive – a good 15 minutes to the port from their – long and narrow island – could see Oia first on top of the cliffs and then further on Fira – magnifique – Buildings hugging and clinging to cliffs with shear 200m drops straight into the Aegean sea. As we docked – mayhem again, as we disembarked – greek orderly fashion – yeah right – scramble for the numerous waiting taxi’s and passenger vans to transport the next wave of tourists up the cliffs – spotted our transfer chap. Yelled at the other two, will text and meet for dinner later on – cool banana’s.
Zigzagged our way up to the top and then along the clifftops – toward Fira village or town really – largest of the towns on Santorini. Very rocky barron landscape – even the grapevines grow along the earth as opposed to up or on vines – to goddam windy for that. One thing they don’t tell ya about in the brochures – Santorini very much like Mt. Maunganui – bloody windy . Still as we neared our hotel – could see we were in for a spectacular Santorini sunset – fantastique.
After 20 mins. or so wandering around the hotel – only guests for this night maybe – our host finally showed and let us into our 1 bedroom apartment – right at the top – with amazing views off the Caldera – ( will explain what the Caldera is – a pile of obsidian or similar rock – spewed out of the mouth of an active volcano (Thira) thousands of years ago which obviously cooled when it hit the cool sea. Leaving a small inner island in the middle of the crater.
Had a supermarket just down the road – shot down picked up a few necessary evils or supplies as I call them (Vino and chocclate). Then we sat on our deck out of the wind and admired the stunning views and our first Santorini in fact Greek Island sunset whilst sipping a vino. After watching the sun set and showers we headed into the centre of Fira – about 500 metres walk and met up with Kane and Fiona – did a bit of wandering and checking out a few restaurants – finally settled on a reasonably priced and quiet traditional taverna – couple old ducks runnin the joint – who we affectionately called momma – around mid seventies and who could speak a little english – on ya girlfriend.
Am sometimes bewildered by the amount and age of some people that speak the queens English throughout Europe. We each ordered our drinks – large Heinies for the boys and ½ litre carafes for the womenfolk. We tucked into a few before we thought about getting around to eating. Caught momma’s eye. Il menu signora. The menu was as hardcase as momma – she gave us a menu and then told us can have this, this or this. So we had this,this and this. Fava beans and bread – new experience – but warm and delicious. Fried tomato balls – more like fritters but equally delicious. Pork chop & Santorini fried potatos x 3 and one pasta. We never ordered or payed for desert but were given a yummy homemade chocolate cake with ice-cream and honey drizzled over – perhaps because we were her only clients for the night – maybe she took a shine to us – who knows ? We did walk outta there rather full, merry and content – we even tipped her $7.00 euros – we were that impressed with both the food and the price . On ya momma. Perhaps back for the mousaka tmoro nite – she did say she was cookin a fresh batch.
Anyhows we waddled back down into the town centre – Kane had spotted a Beer haus bar earlier – so we piled in there rather nosily – only one local to put up with us. Our well rounded and cheerful barmen Stelios lined a few beers up for the lads and some cocktails for the ladies. We also found out that complimentary cocktails shots free with every drink bought. So shots all round – even Stelios joined in. Had a very good sound system that suddenly seemed to play predominately English music whilst we were there. On ya Stelios.
Five drinks and several shots/ cocktails later the dance floor got a hammering. Fiona had to be picked up off the floor twice – not soft landings either – she’ll feel that in the morning. It was only around 11.15pm when we staggered out into the cool night air. Great night – headed our separate ways to our hotels. Rendevous tmoro at 9-10.00am at the quad bike hire shop. We will all be a bit worse for wear I’m sure.

Well we all made it to the bike shop only about 20mins late. The sun was shining along with a couple of bruises on Fiona, haha – bit of breeze though. Sorted out the paperwork, handed over the dosh. $25.00 euros for a day – bring back tmoro at 10.30am – a quick intro on the 150cc quads, the sheila’s climbed on the back and we were off like bats outta hell – not quite , but it felt like it until the sheila’s told us to slow down. Girls – no sense of fun or dare.
After 5 minutes of getting used to our new found toys we headed out to the northern part of Santorini Island and the village of Oia – this is the village that all the stunning domed blue roofs and glistening white walls, Mediterranean sea in the backround, sunsets etc.etc. that the travel brochures all have in them. The road you travel to get there is pretty barren and bare to get there – but the island is a volcano rim in a sense – so you don’t get too much growing here. We did pass a large terraced area on the backside of the caldera – it slopes gently toward the ocean – unlike the dramatic cliffs of the Caldera side. You could walk from Fira to Oia (around an hour & 1/2 walk ) but much more fun on a quad bike.
We arrived into Oia’s main square – where the continual bus pilgrimage ferrying cruise ship passengers from port to the sights and back again. We awoke to two ships
anchored in front of the caldera this morning, small ferry passenger boats – going back and forth with tourists. If ya look past the many souvenir shops lining the numerous lanes and alleys and the bus loads of predominately American tourists – you can see the beauty of the place. The houses literally cling to the cliffs – everyone different with its own difference – even the colours were not just cobalt blue and vivid white – there were very earthy and some vibrant Mediterranean colours spattered amongst the white. We parked our quad’s and wandered through some of the many alleys – looking for that classic Santorini shot. – almost every second corner offered it.
It is pretty stunning and you can see why this particular village is the most photographed of any in the Greek Islands. Of course the camera was clicking like mad.
Another big tick of the bucket list for us both. Village life here is pretty slow apart from the continual tourist bombardment – but I would also say it is 90% of the economy of Santorini Island – so the locals I guess don’t mind.
We even got a pic of a donkey carry sacks of concrete mix to a building site – donkeys being the only mode of transporting goods up, down and through these alleys. We were fortunate to have had a clear sunny day to witness this spectacular little clifftop delight and one which will live in my memory bank forever. Around an hour later we left the magic of Oia and we were off roaring down the road again along the back coast road – more exploratory parts of the Island to navigate.
Like a lot of Santorini and Greece come to think of it – numerous unfinished houses – some had obviously not been worked on for months – some years by the look of it. Stopped back at Fira – scored a Gyros each – bit like a doner kebap form Dimitri’s. Yummo at $2.00 euros each. Also shared a pizza pide. Had lunch at our apartment overlooking the caldera, then hit the road again – headed out to the black sand beach of Perissa and then Red beach . had to fill up the quad at a petrol station - $3.40 euro – no worries. We came across another quad with a couple of Puerto Rican girls doing the same as us – touring the island. Joined us at Cape Akrotiri to watch what we thought would have been a classic Santorini sunset – but not to be – distant cloud on the horizon put paid to that – still we had cheese,wine and crackers and good conversation which more than made up for a non spectacular sunset. It was dark by the time we made it back to Fira- showed our Puerto Rican friends to Dimitri’s restaurant in town – where we ordered takeout for ourselves – a big day touring after a big nite out the previous night had left everyone a little jaded. We all headed back to our hotels – with our take-outs and chilled in front of the square box for the night – lights out early.
Slower start today- awoke to a cloudy and really windy morning – hard-boiled egg, ham & cheese toasted, orange juice and sweet greek coffee – our free brekkie each morning – only one real channel to watch unless you know greek – BBC world – good to catch up with world news. Noticed the two cruise ships had left during the night and had been replaced by another bigger one.
As we were returning our quads back – ran into John,Tracey and their two girls again – on the prowl for a couple quads also – we arranged to have dinner with them later that night at Dimitri’s restaurant. Small world ain’t it – they were not sure they would make it to the greek islands and here they were. We wandered some more around the back alleys and lanes of Fira – very tourist orientated again like Oia – but once again is their main revenue source. Briar bought some silver earings, I handed out the money and all to regular scenario. Met up with Kane and Fiona for lunch – had a bite on another Gyros from a d ifferent restaurant – but equally as good as Dimitri’s, bid them farewell – they were heading back to Athens – we were going to catch up with them in a week or so and head into Turkey together.
Quiet afternoon on the deck back at the hotel reading – caught up on some blogging- a bit of TV – watched the Kane & Fi & the ferry leave. We caught up later with John, Tracey and their two daughters for dinner at Dimitri’s restaurant again – he was impressed with our bringing clients to his establishment – he supplied us with free house wine for the evening. OK dinner – good to catch up with John & Tracey and hear about there life etc. back in NZ. Bid Dimitri and the Fabers farewell, may not run into them again. Chilled in front of the square box rest of the evening.
Better looking morning sun shining but wind factor still there. Slow start to the morning – more blogging and reading, did some more exploratory wandering the streets of Fira – scored some greek sweet delights to have with some leftovers for lunch.
Lunched on our deck whilst admiring our last views of the Caldera – Were picked up by our taxi driver around 3pm – waited around the port till 4pm – ferry 30 minutes late. Had a 4 hour trip back towards Paros – our next stop for a couple of days. Hung out on the deck again – then headed inside to some air seats – supposed to pay extra for – Feasted on Goody’s ( burger & chips) Greece’s version of Makka’s.
Pulled into Paros around 8pm- picked up by our taxi transfer – bout 1 km drive up to our High Mill Motel – spent the night reading and watched a old Colombo movie on the box. Awoke to a very grim, dull and wet morning – so lounged around in bed – till decided to head downstairs for our complimentary brekkie – rather a joke more than a brekkie – greek yoghurt, bread , cheese slices, jam & honey satchets and coffee. Back up to the room – more reading and relaxing – around midday the the rain stopped and the clouds rolled on by and the sun came out – we headed down to the harbour waterfront to check out the village and port of Paros. Strolled through some more alleys – being a Sunday most shops were closed – so nice and quiet.
Visited the Panagia Ekatontapyliani church – impressive for a 3rd century building. Had a very good Caeser salad at the Love Café – one of best salads I’ve had in Europe so far.
Wandered back to Motel along the waterfront promenade then back through the town – spotted a restaurant for dinner later that night not to far from the motel. Did some wifiing on the deck – watched some TV – strolled down to the Aroma restaurant for dinner. Only diners all night and we feasted on freshly cooked greek cuisine. Not to badly priced either - $ 45.00 euros for the two of us. Three courses including wine and coffee. Another chilled evening reading and watching the box. Another 70’s movie – can’t even remember what it was.
Up and it in the morning – 10.30 am ferry to catch – down for the brekkie at least they had cereal this morning – ended up chatting to a Canadian couple doing their tour, swapped emails/ blog sites etc as ya do. Nice fine morning a little breeze – not like Santorini though – relatively calm four crossing back to Pireaus (Athens) .
Once again hung out on the back for awhile, then ventured inside and scored some air seats, which ya supposed to pay extra for, nobody came and checked or kicked us out. Did some blogging while Briar had a snooze. Back in Pireaus port and Athens the mad hustle and bustle of a city greeted us. Metro and bus back to Athens camping and Hugo. Both enjoyed our Greek Island sojourn and both glad we did it even though it wasn’t in the height of summer.
Unpacked and headed back down the main drag to Carrefours to stock up, as we had left nothing in the fridge or cupboards. Another mad dash across the road to the bus stop – risk your life doing it. Did a load of washing and settled in for night – more wifiing – reading and Dvd before lights out.

Woke to a very bleak day – some drizzle about – some how managed to get our washing air dryed and not to damp from the drizzle – had put them under a semi style thatched roof, did the trick. As the morning went on the clouds scattered and the sun shone through, decided to do the Acropolis thing today – so the risk your own life dash across the main drag – caught the bus and then the metro again to the assigned Acropolis stop.
Back into sunlight again headed up the hill – not before paying $12.00 euros each. Leisurely wander up the hill past some more ruins/rocks really shaped like they fitted in some structure once upon a time – fallen over from earthquakes. There was another very impressive amphitheatre which is still used today on special occasions. Then up the steps into the Buele gate entry – not to bad a climb for oldies.
The temple of Zeus – looking resplendent in the sunlight and scaffolding – have I mentioned before that no matter where ya go in Europe to view some monument/ ruins/ church/ cathedral/ historic site – nine out of ten of them have some form of scaffolding or hessian covering them and not just on the outside – several we have visited have the same inside. One has to look past these elements and visualise back in the days when these magnificient structures were at their glorious best.
Have to admit that something almost 2800 years old and was still standing is very impressive given our record of the past 20 years or so in the NZ building scene.
A lot of the frieze panels displaying intricate marble statues and scenes had been stripped of for preservation purposes and were housed next door in the brand new Acropolis Museum- an impressive looking building itself – wonder if that will be still standing in another 2800 years.
Wandered around the Acropolis hilltop admiring not just the temples and ruins, Erechthelon temple but also the views across Athens city. Took snappies as ya do along with hundreds of other tourists. We then headed down the hill to the Roman Agora and then the Ancient Agora – more ruins and one very well preserved temple of Hephaestus, probably the best preserved of any we have seen in Greece so far. Also from down here one could get a very good view of the Acropolis hilltop. Certainly would rate up there as one of the more impressive sights we have been fortunate enough to lay our eyes on physically. We then wandered a few blocks to look at the Temple of Olympian Zeus – not much left standing here I’m afraid – 7 columns only of once were 80 and the biggest in Ancient Athena.
Then onto the modern day stadium which were used in the recent Athens Olympics – is still used today for some events. – mainly marathons. From there we wandered back towards Acropolis through Hadrians Gate and back to Acropolis museum – did stop for some lunch at a walkway café – authentic greek – very plain, boring kai at tourist prices.
At least the very impressive Acropolis museum after lunch with its $1.00 euro entry fee more then made up for it. It also bucketed down whilst we were eating our lunch – so that at least was good timing – as we hadn’t brought our umbrellas – as the day was looking very good – but the wind can whip in the rain filled cumulus clouds fairly quickly. The museum is arranged in a modern day approach so that it emulates the great temple of Zeus – and had mirrored the temple with columns and the original frieze panels and east and western gable ends of the original temple – of course they weren’t completely intact, but one got the idea. Had many other artefacts, statues, jewellery, coins and numerous other objects of daily use and life from those times past. Both stopped and relished a coffee at the museum coffee – best one so far in Greece and the cheapest – Greek coffee is the most expensive in Europe.
All this sightseeing had worn us out and it was around 4.30pm – so caught the metro and bus back to camping Athens. Both showered – early dinner some more wifiing , Dvd and bed.
Woke to an allright morning – in fact one of the better we have woken to in Athens, time to move on today – up earliesh – showered brekkied and packed Hugo up – did the dump and fill up the water tank before checking out. Left a short note on the Fabers campervan with me card and email details.
On the road around 10.00am – managed to do a U-turn on our infamously dangerous road and circumnavigate our way east on the main motorway without to much fuss or the help of Delilah ( who has now been in the safe for nearly three weeks now ).
The countryside not quite what we both expected – some places rocky, barren and little vegetation – typically mediteranean as we expected , but then also some very flat, green and cultivated fields much like northern Europe, numerous conifers of soughts and the ever present olive trees throughout Greece, there were also many half finished homes and buildings along the way. Easy drive through the guts and then along the coast to a place called Stylida and camping Interstation – one of few still open – very few campgrounds open this time of year in Greece.
Stopped for lunch in a small town along the motorway – did pick up some supplies and then headed down to their waterfront promenade – very deserted , but a nice spot for lunch with views across the sea. Once again many half finished holiday homes on the waterfront, many not even lived in by the looks.
An hour later we pulled into our designated campground. Checked in and found a place right down at the front with views back across the sea from the other side from where we had lunch. Could even see some snow capped mountains in the distance. Made quite a picture – thatched umbrellas, green grass, ships docked in the bay with snow capped mountains behind, a real mxture of contrasts. Only one other couple tenting booked in here besides us for the night.
Ok facilities – did end up with a cold shower in the morning – didn’t work the token machine right I guess – at least Briar managed a warm one. They did have cooking facilities where I whipped up a stir fry dinner – delicioso. Some reading – Dvd and lights out. Both slept very well with the new found silence a very big contrast from Camping Athens and the noisy main drag that never let up all night long.
We both crashed early enough to wake early the next morning and didn’t dawdle around – on the road again by 9.30am – filled up the diesel tanks – good price 0.94 cents per litre – haven’t seen prices like these since Spain almost. Destination somewhere near Katerina – Peiria region today – Briars turn to drive mostly motorways – some mountainous stuff early on before we got back near the coast again – had several toll booths to pass through – got a bit hacked off after one stretch where we payed twice within 25 km, the poor toll booth chap wore my wrath.
Onwards we pressesd however making huge inroads into our km’s, n fact we arrived near our destination by 12.30pm – quick decision made to keep on going to another campground another 200k’s further around the coast, Kavala a seaside resort past Thessaloniki. We stopped for gas and lunch at a little known village Profitis just off the main motorway about 25k’s past Thessaloniki on the second lake. $0.93 centos a litre – so filled it right up – also purchased a fresh Pide ( loaf of bread) and some hand carved luncheon of the roll by a dear little old lady in her small superette next door to the petrol station.
Stopped on a side road with views of the lake and many farmers on their tractors hoeing their fields (very flat area). Had to move slightly to let one pass us heading home for lunch no doubt. Only a couple K’s away from a motorway connection which we drove onto after lunch and made a beeline for Kavala, pulled into their around 4pm – spotted a small Carrefours – restocked on a few supplies.
Had some yeast that needed using – along with some olives and anchovies we had bought in Spain nearly 7/8 months ago, decided to make home made pizza’s. Onto our campground at Neo Kavala a mini version of Kavala and camping Alexandros – only ones again to camp – found a beachfront spot – managed to find a plug hole to get electricity and settled in for the arvo/night.
Big day driving around 360k’s – well done Briar – sterling effort girl. We also decided to give Kane and Fiona a call – as we said we would try and catch up before we crossed the Turkish border and cross together. Had tried earlier in the day to text them but got no answer. Anyhow we rang them and got an answer immediately – low and behold they too were in Kavala at another campground further back down the coast – they ended up coming up to our camp half an hour later, shared some pizza, several bottles of vino and numerous laughs with us.
Great to catch up with them again , I think they were as glad to see us as we were them. Travelling this time of year can be lonely as there are usually only yourselves in the campgrounds and even sightseeing is very quiet. So always good to catch up with fellow wanderers from down under. They even ended up camping the night at our camp, before heading back to the other campground next morning to pick up their passports and then meet us again before heading onto Alexandroupoli – next campground stop before crossing the Turkish border.
So in tandem we hit the motorway again without to much fuss. Very flat countryside here – motorway cruising – easy drive 160k’s or so – rocked into Alexandroupoli around 1pm. A very heavy army influence in town –an army base here – spotted several rows of tanks, trucks and armoured vechiles lined up around the bases on both sides of the road as you enter Alexandroupoli. Kanes satnav lead us down some narrow streets towards our campground past a funeral – I’m sure we weren’t supposed to be in this street.
Finally made it down to the beachfront road where we located our camp – booked in and set up – almost beachfront. OK camp with good facilities and big concreted sites. Had a bite to eat for lunch – Kane & Fiona headed into town for a stroll – we did as well later on – found an internet café – an hour on interent doing some much needed catching up and soughting some financial stuff. Then wandered thorugh town – scored a few supplies ( Barbie tonite for dinner). Then walked back along the waterfront and then the beach back to the campground – a leisurely 3 k stroll – as the sun was setting.
Once back grabbed the camera to take some serene sunset shots. Set up the Barbie – had an English couple for new neighbours behind us on a site - chatted to them for a bit – ended up inviting them over to share our barbie for dinner as well. They were at the beginning off their journey – travelling in an old Camel trophy Land Rover – has the fold out tent permanently fixed on the roof – Mike & Ann ( bit of a gadget man – Mike – had all the nick knacks you could think off and then some) .
Still they were very well set up for there trek across the Middle East and then on down to Australia and NZ. Perfect vehicle for off road venturing through the outbacks of the Middle East and Australia for sure. Hopefully they will call in around this time next year and stay for a bit. Gave them me card and contact details.
Another successful Barbie – good food, good vino, great conversation even if the temp. down around a chilly 8 degrees – kept the Barbie firing with plenty branches / twigs from the campground. Even the sight of flame has that warm and comforting feeling even if you can’t feel it. Shared more stories and bullshit as you do, - Looks like we might have another vehicle joining our convoy across the border tomorrow.

As the vino ran out and the cold finally drove everyone of to bed – the evening ended.

Awoke to a sunny clear morning – perfect for crossing the border – Mike & Ann a little worried about this crossing ( green cards and their pommie passports) – no worries we said. After showers and brekkie – we all packed up and headed outta the camp about 10.30am – first port of call a fuel stop for all . Then a food supplies stop at a local supermarket on the outskirts of Alexandroupoli toward Turkey.
We hit the motorway – around 80 k’s or so to the border – our convoy would have looked rather priceless as we left Alexandroupoli – a Ford transit pop up, a Camel trophy Land rover and a 6 berth- 6 ½ metre Riviera Campervan – a sight indeed. There is something comforting about travelling en mass with new found aquaintances in unchartered territory. Had a bit of detour of the main motorway for the last twenty or k’s before we hit the border crossing. No worries leaving the Greece checkpoint –
Stopped at a duty free and food stop for toilet break and coffee fix. Browsed the duty free store . Mike bought some Camel cigarettes– case of emergency– bribing material.
Then across the bridge and river ( sentry guard posts – with both Greece & Turkey guards within 30 metres or so of each other and flags on the same bridge waved to them all as we passed – big smiles – wonder who built the bridge ) then once on the other side the fun began. no.1 checkpoint gate – passports out – welcome Anzacs – onto next checkpoint no.2 – passports out again – stamp this time – onto next checkpoint no.3 – require passport- vehicle registration papers and green card or insurance documentation. Mike & Ann purchased a green card before the next checkpoint – we thought our insurance was sufficient and Kane & Fi had none really to speak off.
So next checkpoint Mike & Ann breezed through with all the right paperwork , Briar & I had everthing but the right insurance – Green card needed still – so back to the shop to buy a greencard insurance slip ( $68.00 euros later) Kane & Fiona also bought a green card ( when entering Turkey you either need to buy this card at the crossing or inform your insurance agent that you will be needing one to cross the border and they will send you a separate green card form for the crossing) – so once back at checkpoint 3. No problem for Briar and I – but problem for Kane & Fiona – temporary registration form not acceptable to customs – they had just bought the green card insurance and swapped over monies in Turkish lira – but could not get there vehicle into Turkey – they went back for refund on the green card and swapped their money back – No Turkey for them it seems – they were both gutted – we offered them to join us on tour through Turkey and leave their camper back at Alexandroupoli campground – meant we had to turn around and go back – the other possibility was the compound nearby that looked as though you could leave vehicles in store.
So back to checkpoint no.3 to ask about leaving vehicle in storage – no go – so pleaded with customs officer about the temporary rego documents which eventually he agreed to let pass – excellent news for Kane & Fi – but they then had to go back and buy the green card insurance form again – big fuss .
Still they finally got their passports stamped and vehicle clearance – then had our vehicles given the thorough search through.
Passports signed then onto checkpoint no.4 – passports out again for last stamp and finally after 1 ½ of mucking about the convoy was finally heading down the motorway again but this time in Turkey. Pulled over for a big breath sigh of relief and all that and to debrief on our next destination, then back on the trail again.
Couple hours later we drove through Gelibolu ( Gallipoli) onto Eceabat and down to the Gallipoli national park region and ANZAC cove. It was around 4pm now and the sun was setting – giving another spectacular sunset – we parked our vans/campers in a U-shape to give us a nice little protected campsite from the road – we were in a parking lot right on the beach – next to a jetty and a memorial to the fallen. An ideallic free-camping spot to watch the sunset and fire up another Barbie/ camp fire for the night – set about getting extra pine cones from the pine trees about and some dry twigs and branches lying about.
The Barbie/campfire roared all night thanks to Kane ( pyromaniac I think) kept it well stocked all night – no one was complaining once again the heat radiated and the sight of flame always gives one the feeling of warmth. The stars as well as a different looking Milky way with its dusty sprinkle shining bright in the night sky – we also had a ¾ moon to boot. Again the food,vino and chatter broke the almost serene silence of our posy – only 2 cars passed us by the whole night. We all slept well after our trying border crossing day – tmoro visiting Anzac cove and its surrounds.
The next morning was a bit cloudy – but lotsa blue sky around , a good kind of day to visit this Gallipoli penninusla, not quite as good as yesterday but not raining either. After a slowish start for all, we finally got moving around 10.00am, Kane the only one with enough balls to go for a refreshing dip in the sea ( bet he didn’t have much in the way of balls when he got outta the water but)
Firstly we drove along the Anzac coast road – past the Australian and New Zealand beach landing memorials – then a British memorial – then stopped at Shrapnel valley – no doubt appropriately named back in the day – then at the official Anzac Cove memorial site – where the annual Anzac day and remembrance ceremonies take place. Then along to another couple of cemeteries – took piccies along the stops. One can only imagine the hell that these guys endured for nine months fighting over this patch of coast. The terrain being both moonlike and offering little protection in any direction. As we drove further around this national park and then startes to see more and more cemteries not just the Anzac and british – but also the Turkish memorials and cemteries – they lost as many as the allied forces did during this nine month campaign. We had the best guide we could ask for with Anne reading out all of the relevant info from her trusty Turkey bible.
Lone pine tree hill etc.etc. It is a compassionate thing the Turks have done in this National park, not just to commemorate their own who had died here, but also the sons of mothers from afar who had fallen on these distant shores.
I think everyone of us visiting these memorials both reflected and acknowledged the valour and bravery of the young men of both sides.
We carried on driving to Eceabat where we stopped for lunch at a waterfront restaurant – hard case they had chaps literally out in the middle of the street flagging us down and showing us where to park in front of their restaurants. Of course this is lean season for them – so we had several restauranteurs bargaining for our trade.

Finally settled on one ( had four to chose from). We all went to the same one – all ordered Souvalik’s of various type’s ( meat souvalaki’s) came with lotsa bread and yummy fresh salad. Had a mixed souvalaki – several types of meat all grilled with some rice/ fries and a warmed spinach/feta mix. All very traditional Turkish and not bad for the $14.00 turkish lira ( $6.00 euro ) including water each we paid.
After lunch stopped at a sports store along the road where Kane purchased a fishing rod and some hooks for $8.00 euros. Briar and I bought a beanie to keep our ears warm at nights around the campfire ( last two nights – the old earlobes had suffered)
Then drove further down the peninsula along the coast and past the Dardenelles ( the seas that the Anzacs had also fought for control off) then down to the main British memorial at Abide – getting on now near sunset again found another spot to free camp on a paddock off a country road near a cliff overlooking the sea.
Once again a very quiet spot – don’t think we had a single car come past the whole night. Formed our usual u-shape camp – set up the Barbie – gathered plenty more pine cones and branches to fire the Barbie up with. Another night of meat searing away on the Barbie
Another salad and some (tin foil wrapped spuds/carrots and onion parcels ( delicioso )
Again the night brought good food, vino and conversation – earlier lights out tonite – everyone a bit jaded from the days emotions and sightseeing.
Back to an outstanding blue sky morning next morning – everyone up and about fairly early – Kane had shot down to the beach at sparrows fart and tried a spot of surfcasting with his new rod – not much joy their though. Mike and Ann were up and rustling about as ya do when you are in your first month on tour. I bet that will change a few more months down the track, speaking from experience now.
Still we shared brekkie together at our camp table – planning todays destinations – We will part company with Mike & Ann today – they will head north east to Istanbul – whilst Kane/Fiona/Briar and myself we will head to Eceabat – catch the ferry across to Cannakale and head south toward Bergama – stop somewhere along the coast for the night. So after packing up, saying our goodbye’s, well wishes and making sure we left a clean site we hit the trail – followed Mike & Ann till Eceabat where we waved them farewell. After purchasing our tickets, we had around a 30 min wait for our ferry crossing.
Whilst our wait for the ferry a Turkish chap with a bag of T-shirts who befriended and sucked us in to buying a t-shirt each ( $2.00 euros each).
Thirty minutes later we headed across the Dardenelles sea to Cannakale, a twenty-five minute ferry ride. Got some nice pics as we left Eceabat – and coming into Cannakale.
All mayhem once we docked and disembarked – spotted a Turismo Office near the dock exit gate – tried to park – but policia waved us on – round the roundabout and double parked on the other side across from the turismo office .
Hey when in Turkey do as the locals do – double park and leave your hazard lights flashing – so we did - don’t know if we should have done it in a public bus stop. Collected some useful info. and a few maps – Briar rode shotgun while I did the dash to the tourist info. ventured further down the road where they had a wooden Troy horse sitting in the park – stopped got some piccies ( actually used this particular one in the movie Troy)
Then we navigated some main looking roads to get us outta there and heading south toward Troy, Kane & Fi following us. Stopped at a local Kipo hypermarket for some supplies before venturing on – a local chap spotted us – How’s it going mate? he said.
You come form Oz or NZ . NZ we said , I have many NZ’ers come stay at my hotel in Eceabat, they say I look like Cliff Curtis – bit of a dag , this chap. Kia ora bro.

Back on the road we had around a 45 min. drive to Troy. Once here we stopped and ate lunch in the carpark – another older campervan with some Americans – who came over for a nosy, chatted to Kane and Fiona for a bit. Completely ignored us – snobs.
In the end we didn’t rustle into our pockets to find the $15.00 lira entry fee, a bit too much to pay to see a pile of rocks – which Troy pretty much is nowadays.
On we drove further down the coast - not that we were exactly on a coastal road – but in general. We finally pulled up in the small seaside village of Guzelay ( probably a rather busy little spot during summer, but not this time of the year) – found a camping spot in a hotel complex – only guests for the night – funny little round man (did understand a couple words of English $20.00 euros for the night for the two of us – sweet as – it was waterfront, had its own jetty and empty swimming pool, our first decent loo, hot shower and shave for three days, choice.
So we all took turns for the only shower we had access to, plenty of boats out from shore fishing for “blue fish” the catch of the day at present according to locals. Kane attempted another fish of the jetty for a couple hours to no avail again. As the sun went down – cranked the Barbie up – the obligatory anti-pasto and vino’s came out, everyone feeling cleansed and refreshed from the showers. Had some fresh steaks and sausies off the Barbie for dinner along with the tin-foiled wrapped veggies ( put that in for pommie Anns sake)
There was plenty of wood lying around the grounds to use as fuel for the nite. Discussed tmoro’s destination and plans – Bergama and the Acropolis there maybe.
All slept well – in fact so well that we all made a bit later start than had planned the previous evening. As the sun was beating down ( Kane and I in shorts) we bid farewell to our little round Turkish man around 10.30am – heading south – Once again we have been staggered by the arable and well cultivated land of Turkey – not the dry, dusty barren like land at all – Plenty of greenery – in fact the Autumn colours in some regions were as spectacular as we have seen in Greece / Slovenia and Croatia.

We pulled into another little seaside town Ayvalik - even more fascinating and busier than Guzelay, plenty of action down on the town waterfront and port area. Found a waterfront spot to have a feed, Tourist Info. centre directly across the road. Fantastic – Briar grabbed some more. info of local area - had a campground further around on an island about 20 k’s from where we were.
After lunch we decided to keep going further around the coast and then inland a wee bit to Bergama – had researched a campground there earlier. The drive took another couple hours – drove passed many seaside resorts and villages – hugging the coast nearly all the way long – a shame really the old western influence –in fact reminded us both of some parts of the coast of Spain, again many unfinished apartments, some looked as though they had not been worked on for months, some even deserted. The coastal splurge of apartments did not detract too much from the beauty of the sea – also crystal clear.
We pulled into Bergama around 4pm as we can only travel around the 90-95 km per hour mark so as not to lose Kane & Fiona,s campervan – had its own restaurant in front – also had washing machines and very good sanitary facilites – treat for the girls – showers two nights in a row. Did a load of washing each and some wifiing – had a cute little gazebo right next to our vans – made that ours – only one other camper in tonite – a French couple.
Kane made a delicious stir fry for dinner – after of course the almost mandatory nightly anti-pasto & vino’s ( especially since we have been travelling with Kane & Fiona- not sure if they are the alchies or us, or both). The light in the Gazebo burst its bubble earlier on just on dusk, but was replaced by another little not so round camp man – who just appeared out of the dark with a replacement bulb, on ya bro.

During our stay in Bergama we were treated for the first time, to the audacious sound of praying to Allah via very loud speakers on the steep spires of the mosques in the arvo, night and very early the next morning. Have noticed many of these spires in almost every town or village we have come across so far in Turkey and now we know why- have not really heard it before of any consequence, no doubt we will hear this more often now. Allah must have been looking after us – as their was enough of a breeze during the night, and another sunny morning – enough to dry our washing off before packing up and heading up the hill to the Acropolis – a 6 km drive up a steepish road – but not before driving smack through the middle of downtown Bergama – we were just following signs – as that is all we have to go by here in Turkey – no Sat-navs or tom-toms work here.
Crafty buggers the turks – you drive all the way up and then ya get double whammied with a parking lot fee 12.50 TL each van, and then an entry fee to the Acropolis $52.00 turkish lira( $35.00 euros per couple) it worked out to be.
Still the pile of rocks while not quite as impressive as the Athens Acropolis still very impressive – the amphitheatre was the steepest we saw – almost vertical in some parts at least 70 degrees I would reckon. Similar to Athens and Olympia – some small amounts of remedial reconstruction work had been done here and there, One end and around 6 columns still remained of the Temple. Being so high up , much higher than any city ruins visited so far inTurkey or Greece. One had spectacular views 360 degrees around one could also easily here the prayers from the speakers in Bergama as clear as day. A shame there was so much of that goddam European haze around , does not equate for picture taking. After an hour of wandering these 300 BC ruins – headed back down the hill to the vans – not off course without being hassled by the souvenir stall owners – several spoke pretty damned good English – they all ask where you are from.

Once in the vans we headed north again back in the direction towards Ayvalik – agreed to stop their for a night. So cruisy drive around 65 k’s back to Ayvalik from Bergama. Once back down at the Waterfront area – pulled in and parked. Locked the campers up and started exploring the backstreets and cobbled lanes of this bustling little seaside port town. Lost my specs somewhere during morning visit to Acropolis – so very fortunate to find a street seller with a new pair for me for $10.00 lira (around $ 4.00 euros) within 15 mins of being in Ayvalik – almost lost now without the goddam things – not much fun getting old I’ll tell ya.
During our strolling we had a camel procession complete with music (well drums mostly), big hairy creatures – salivating dribble the whole time – very colorfully dressed up. There was also the old shoe shine chaps with their ornately decorated stands – majority of Turkish men all wear leather shoes and very well polished – even the more non-well to do amongst them. Stopped for a Turkish kebap or similar, on bread – all starving - $2.50 lira each about a euro. Very tasty, checked out some more shops – before doing a small shop at the local Tansa supermarket.
Then we headed out to the camp we had been given the address for the previous day by the info. centre – around 15 k’s over a man-made stretch of road ( about 600 metres long) between the mainland and the island of Cunda out to Camping Ada – an ideallyic beach front camp – once again we were the only campers for the night (S20.00 lira for the night- sweet as)
Kane once again had a wharf to fish from – he even managed to catch a few here – not that they were worth eating mostly due to size (Kiwiw’s and AUsiies wouldn’t eat them that is – most European countries would serve them up in the restaurants and at home). Had a couple of friendly camp dogs who made it there job to keep watch over su during our stay. You guessed it the nightly scenario, snackies and vino as we watched a magical sunset yet again – the sunsets we have experienced here in Turkey, as equally as good as any in Greece including Santorini. Briar made a pasta dish for dinner once too dark too hang around outside. Played cards tonite – taught Kane & Fiona how to play Crib – they got the hang off it after a couple games , but ya just can’t beat experience especially with a couple of cagy old wolve(rine) like Briar and I about.
Still we all crashed to the extreme sound of silence for the night. Blissfully quiet spot, a distant sound of a fishing boat perhaps returning to Ayvalik port. The stars also out in force again tonite , clarity of the night sky here almost as impressive as back home in NZ. Another stunning Turkish morning again, sadly we had to leave this ideallyic haven (the old fella was offering Kane a boat to go fishing in!) – but new roads to drive, new sights to see.
After tracking the coast abit we headed inland where we travelled through very wooded, forested areas, hills and valleys – many beautiful autumn colours, miles and miles of olive groves being harvested, also many fruit and vegetable stalls along this route. We drove through the inland towns and cities of Edremit/ Balikirsir and a very foggy Bursa – where streets and streets of Apartment blocks being built, before getting back on the coast of the Sea of Marmara at Gemlik – stopped for a bite of lunch around 2pm- once again right down on the waterfront promenade, much to the amusement of the locals, especially two 12/14 year old lads, who tried to strike up conversation.
After feeding the worms we ventured on further east up the Sea of Marmara coast – no camps here so finally found a wide enough street that headed down to the seafront close to Altinova – found an unused patch of grass, dirt and rubble in between what appeared to be holiday homes mostly. Astounded by the amount of rubbish washed up or just dumped around – and yet where we were going to camp for the night we had a good sized dumpster.
Have sadly noticed both through Greece and Turkey the amount of rubbish along the roads, seafronts, rivers etc.etc – not lasting impressions one likes to keep. Being in tandem – when in slightly dodgy spots for free-camping it certainly feels a lot more safer than when on one’s own. Still only a couple people lingering around with the smog / mist not quite sure which – Briar says smog – don’t think it can all be smog, smoke maybe from wood burning chimneys. A couple locals stopped by for a cigarette or just to be nosy – an old chap even wanted Kane’s address – we figured so he could skite to his mates. No Barbie again tonite – ate indoors and another card nite also enjoyed by all. No hassles during our night’s stay – couple late night boy racers – yes they have them here in Europe as well – not to the same insanely intensity as we have at home, but still boy racers. So glad we have an on board loo, Kane & Fiona don’t in their van – did offer it to them several times. They proudly hung on to the next morning where we pulled in just down the road at a fuel stop.
Morning very misty ( me) and smoggy (Briar) – we did have a bit of brekkie before heading off. Bathroom needed first so – we hit the trail – after the much needed pit stop and refuelling the campers onward we pressed toward Istanbul – with no sat-nav or tom-tom we knew this could be a bit of fun finding our previously booked hotel – smack in the middle of the old part – Sultanahmet – hugely intensely packed motorways – four lanes wide – crossing the Bosphorus on one of the bridges – bumper to bumper for about 10 k’s crawling along – managed to stay the course – but did not take a correct exit – so had to back track for 10 k’s or so along the coastal road where we did find the correct railway underpass close to our destination the Sahuran Hotel – with some on the edge of your seat manouvering down some very narrow streets – after several attempts, lots of asking along the way and helpful directions by locals we found our hotel – only problem no parking for campervans – too big.
Found a carpark couple hundred metres away around a couple of corners and lanes. This area of Istanbul has many old run-down buildings – some have been restored, others left derelict and almost unsafe to be leaving in their state. Also obvious is the people here are definitely at the lower end of the social economic scale. The shops and restaurants in this area certainly must find it tough goin not just in the off-season but during the peak times as well I reckon.
Had a mini caged soccer field directly across the road from the hotel. A new hotel being built or more renovated from some existing buildings into a hotel. Will be open within 4 or 5 months I would say. As much as I think its tough going for these people here the place still seems to buzz and the people are generally happy with their lot. Material assets are definitely high on the priority list in comparison to us westerners.
Booked into the hotel after packing bags etc.etc for our 5 night stay in Istanbul.
We had a shared family room with Kane and Fiona – being the cheapest option for two nights – then they would have a room to themselves for last two nights of their planned stay. Reasonably good hotel for 2 star – certainly a lot softer beds than the bricks we had to sleep on in the Greek islands. Nice en-suite – small kitchenette – free wifi from your room and satellite LCD TV – only 3 channels in English.
We all kicked back for arvo – after showers and a few vino’s. Had received and texted pommie Mike & Ann earlier – who were at the mo staying in Istanbul as well. So decided to meet them somewhere and all go out for dinner together, excellent stuff. The hotel is very close to all the top sites and attractions in Istanbul and most within walking distance , so we caught up with our new pommie friends later near the Blue Mosque and Mike had suggested a restaurant not far away –aptly titled – The Pudding Shop – So we piled in their – livening the place up as we foreigners do tend to do.
So feasted on some more traditional Turkish fare – washed down with some Turkish beer for a change for the lads. Ok food and not too badly priced ( 2 courses each and two drinks each for around $60.00 lira - $25.00 euro) . Much conversation and catch ups – also would do a ferry boat up the Bosphorus with them on the Sunday arvo – sounded well priced and we had planned on doing one anyway.
Bid our poms goodnight and stopped for an apple tea on the way back to our hotel – extremely hot, deliciously creamy and very apple flavoured – most unusual but very nice. We all crashed in front of the square box and some old movie.
After the early sunrise sounds of Allah and my snoring woke everyone up around eightish or so – the weather very misty and abit gloomy lookin for a change – especially after the great weather we have experienced in Turkey so far. Shared a cuppa outside with Kane havin his morning tobacco fix, nearly a year and a half now since I gave away the little white death sticks – hasn’t been the best for the waistline – but I’m sure my lungs are appreciating it – who knows another five years and there might be almost no traces of that dreaded nicotine left around in there.
We all showered again before heading up for brekkie around 9.30am- had a climb up 4 flights of stairs to the rooftop terrace where I guess one would have great views aross the Marmara sea – but the fog pretty heavy over the sea – around couple hundred metres vision max.
The buffet brekkie very good – not you’re usual westerners brekkie – but a good variety and fresh enough. Not sure about the couple of varieties of olives for brekkie – but they do grow them here in great volumes – so maybe it is part of their staple breakfast diet. The Turkish natural yoghurt with a sharp tangy taste mixed with a bit of fig and honey – buonisimo. After replenishin the worms we headed back down to the room and packed backpacks for venturing into the sights and shopping of Istanbul. We made a beeline for the Blue mosque first – around a 15 minute walk uphill through the labrinyth of narrow cobbled streets of Sultanahmet.
By this time many tourists and busloads of tourists about – we all thought we might have been under dressed( shorts, girls had no scarves) very much the old muslim ways here with not all but many of the female gender particularly well covered up ( not even a flash of an ankle) but also many younger modern Turkish women dressed similar to many European women no matter want country you are in- younger women and jeans are absolutely huge here in Europe – to the point of being the no.1 favoured attire – we did not go through the mosque – plenty of days left to go through when we felt more comfortable with the way we dressed and they were having prayer session – so no public allowed in for next 30 mins.

So we walked on through some streets – Kane hassled by a friendly local wanting to offer us tea and sell us some carpet as we made our way to the Grand bazaar – Istanbuls famed flea markets – where one can buy almost anything- almost.
The majority of this famed bazaar is under cover – but it is so big that it now includes many outer shops, stalls even street stands. So it is little wonder that one can get lost through the myriad of dazzling shops and stalls.
Of course the shop attendants are also not only observant but very sharp with their tact and they must all attend the same salesman school- they are all very slick and not only with their tongues. Poor old Fiona (being a young attractive European lass (Australian actually) – copped quite a bit of flak and flirty proposals from several younger stall attendants. To me it made for good amusement as we wandered – took some piccies.
There are so many selling the same thing – once again must be hard to make a decent living. We were told before buying anything wait for their price offer (as nothing has prices on it) and offer them a third and be prepared to walk away, which most of us did on several occasions – only had a few chase after us – accepting our offer. So bargaining became the order of the arvo. Did get stung on some cheap high class rip-off brand perfume and after shave- Started at $55.00 lira each got down to $15.00 each($6.00 euro) – but later we found could have got them for about $8.00-10.00 lira. Ah well – ya can’t beat them all. Fiona and Briar were in womens heaven ( leather jackets, leather shoes, silk and cashmere scarves, silk wraps, gold and silver jewellery, equisite glassware etc.etc.)
Three hours later we managed to find an exit gate – big sigh of relief from Kane and I.
Not only had we not had to delve into the back pocket much at all – but those bloody worms were in need of satisfying. More of a reconnoitre visit – see whats what – before going back with a definite plan on the Monday – being Saturday today and the Grand Bazaar is closed on Sundays – funny that.
Found a souvalki kitchen – selling fresh cooked kebaps – watched our chicken souvalaki’s being barbequed – don’t come much fresher than that. Bargain price of $2.00 lira each ( $0.70 euro cents each) also more like what we get back home – in a wrap as opposed to a bun. Absolutely delicimo. We ate and wandered heading down toward the also famed spice markets about a kilometre – had to navigate through extremely busy streets full of shops, thousands of Turks out enjoying the late arvo sun which had finally broken through the mist/fog/smog and I mean thousands – this was way busier than in side the Grand Bazaar – more than likely because this is where the locals do their shopping – leaving the Grand Bazaar for the tourists. Perhaps also coming up to the festive season – early chrissie shopping ?
One could smell the spice markets as we approached, finally found the doorway to the markets which was as busy inside as was outside. Stalls and stalls of piled high spices (neatly arranged) of almost every type of spice known – but also obviously catering to the local market more so. Also stalls with that ever delicious Turkish delight in many varieties and flavours – along with several other types of Turkish home-made sweets – very big influence off honey and pistachio’s it appeared.
By now we all had enough of masses of people and the constant hustle and bustle of the place – so did a rather quicker tour through the Spice market. Did buy some Turkish delight for a treat. After a sampling each made a beeline back to the hotel – us oldies caught the tram back up the hill – Kane and Fiona walked – on ya.
Relaxed again once back at the Hotel – kept getting hassled by local restauranteurs plying if not begging us to come eat at their restaurant. We might have to dodge our way every time we go back to the hotel next few days.
Chilled – did a bit of Wifiing watched some BBC world – all showered again before heading out for dinner – planned to catch up with Mike & Ann again for dinner – which we did – same rendevous point – but wandered further in search of some dinner – finally struck a deal with a restauranteur doing the strong street sell like they all were for trade. $20.00 turkish lira each ($8.00 euro) – three courses – not bad – Tapas/dips & bread for entrée – fish and salads for main and baklava for desert.
Much conversation again as we braved the elements and ate outside – luckily they had outdoor gas heaters. Both Mike and Ann had been for the Turkish bath experience that morning – both thoroughly enjoyed it.
Kane and Fiona couldn’t afford it and Briar and I were too gun shy to do it.
More alcohol stimulated conversation during the meal. Earlier finish to the night for us all, we were back at the hotel after traversing the local restaurants near our hotel. Cuppa and a bit of TV before I snored myself to sleep, not sure about the others.
I think Kane and Fiona will be looking forward to their own room somehow. Another misty,foggy, smoggy morning greeted us as we ate brekkie on the glass covered roof terrace overlooking the Sea of Marmara, could see out about 200 metres this morning.

After brekkie we checked out the local fish markets – about half a kilometre down the road – on the waterfront near our hotel. I though the fish markets in Bergen/Norway was impressive – this fish market equally impressive – far more variety and certainly far bigger and diverser range of fish. Big bins and tanks with fresh fish swimming about, fresh sea water running through all the time. Continued wandering along the waterfront – a different route back to the hotel – spotted a couple poles with a wire with lotsa colourful balloons tied to the wire and tin cans amongst the rocks.

As we got closer we noticed a box with a couple of slug guns/rifles sitting on them - one lira for four shots – be rude not to have a go – certainly wouldn’t get anything like this in on the waterfront in downtown Auckland or Tauranga. So we all had a go each, even the girls. Hard case , back to the hotel for a bit. Then headed uphill and then downhill to Eminounu area of Istanbul – where were going to meet Mike & Ann (pommies) for a ferry ride up the Bosphorus ( this is around a 22 km river that links the Aegean/Sea of Marmara and the Black sea – so is extremely busy with plenty of ship movement on it twenty-four seven. In fact one day whilst having brekkie up on the top of our Hotel terrace we counted approx. 160 ships anchored of what we could see due to the mist, so probably would have been twice maybe three times as many out there.
Stopped for a lunch on the run – all havin various take-away’s. Meet Mike & Ann in front of the spice markets as arranged and then proceeded across the road to the Galata bridge – where being a Sunday – both sides of the bridge were lined with hundreds and I mean hundreds of fishermen crammed next to each other – elbow to elbow – made quite a spectacle the hundreds of rods/lines hanging over – took a piccie of course.
Bought our tickets for the ferry ($10 lira each- $4.00 euro –bout 1 ½ hour cruise) – boarded the vessel – found a good spot at outside on the upper deck - be nice sunny spot for viewing and taking pics. Had a Turkish tea while we waited to take off – away we went – noticeably all the way long the Bosphorus – Sunday fishermen doing their favourite hobby – not too much different from home I guess. Also obvious that only the wealthy can afford to live along the Bosphorus waterfront- huge palatial homes and the odd apartment complex – with the occasional palace or historic building spattered amongst. One could almost think they were cruising up the upper Sydney harbour with the styles of buildings. We coasted up and back down to where we left off at around a comfortable 8-10 knot speed – in fact a very relaxing way to spend a nice sunny afternoon in Istanbul. Once back at the dock we farewelled our pommie mates – Briar and I would meet them for dinner that night– but Kane & Fiona’s budget wouldn’t allow.
Briar and I trammed back up to Sultanahmet – Kane & Fiona had things to check out and decided to walk – once again bit of chilling and wifiing before heading out for and meeting Mike & Ann dinner – pizza on the menu tonite near their hotel. Big hugs and farewells after dinner – as we would not see them again until perhaps near the end of 2010 in NZ.
Earlier night back at our room in the hotel – Kane & Fiona now in their own room now. Both B and I had a good sleep, met our mates for brekkie on the terrace – planned a bit more sightseeing and another visit to the Grand bazaar for the day .

First stop the Blue mosque – more properly attired we joined the queue to go in, had to take your shoes off and carry them through the temple. Absolutely grand in scale and opulence, but not in gold or treasures as one sees numerously throughout western Europe in Catholic churches and cathedrals. The internal central dome is mosaic-ed with some 20 thousand of tiles – in white and blue – hence its name.
The exterior of the central large dome roof also at certain times and in certain light exudes shades of blue – hence its name. A flying ten minute pass through along with bus loads of European and American tourists, doing the same. The girls keen to head up the hill to the Fatih area and the grand bazaar – buying day today – Briar had a list – which we managed to tick off 95 % off the wishes on it. Silver jewellery , cashmere scarves and a very nice leather jacket – the best part is the bargaining of course – seeing how much you can get the item you are interested in for the lowest price.
A few stalls are fixed price – have the discounts already built in.
Spent another 3 hours or so wandering through the labrinyth of stalls. Did buy a shirt for myself for 18 lira. Munched on another kebap to keep the worms happy as we sauntered through the maze . After finally having enough we made our way back to the hotel – did some to listen to a free concert in a nearby park – Turkish theatre come musical troup telling obviously some wee-known turkish tale or folk story. Amusing stuff. Had another one of the deliciously creamy apple teas again. They serve it extremely hot.
We chilled again for a few hours before meeting up again and heading over to Beyoglu on the opposite side of the river still on the European side though. We were all in a need of something other than Turkish for a change. The hotel had a stand in the foyer with business cards on it, where we found probably one of a very few Chinese restaurants which happened to be in Beyoglu.
So after the walk up the hill, onto a tram across the river – then caught the only funicular tram in Istanbul. Then wandered down the hill back toward the Galata tower and bridge. Had googled the street where the restaurant was – so found it without too much fuss. Narrow little restaurant it was – but buzzing with people and energy, no alcohol environment- had to walk past the kitchen out the front – the smells were divine – probably cause we hadn’t smelt those smells for a while. The service, food and ambience – very very good for a Chinese restaurant in Turkey and the place was humming the whole time we were there and mostly with locals as opposed to tourists like us. After our generous dinner we waddled back down the Beyoglu hill toward Eminounu over the Galata bridge – not so many fishermen tonite – but still the odd one.
The Beyoglu main street – the modern area of Istanbul – very similar to any European main city drag with the well known European shopfront names all the way along.
Caught our tram back up the hill and walked back down the other side to our hotel – once again manouvering or more like avoiding the local restauranters in close proximity to our hotel. Bid our fellow travellers goodnight – tomorrow their journey will separate from us.
Meet them for brekkie again on the roof top. A clearer day for a change, still a bit of mist around but not like we have had so far in Istanbul. After brekkie helped carry their luggage back to their van parked in the paying school parking lot. Big hugs, handshakes , goodbyes etc. etc hopefully we will catch up with Kane and Fiona in London just before chrissie. If not they have said they might come down to Papamoa in January – they are intending to come to NZ for a couple months to catch up with Kane’s family. Will be brilliant to catch up again some time. Have thoroughly enjoyed their company at various times during our journey as well.
We left them with the Barbie, a couple of fold chairs and our fold out table – which I know for sure they will use – we have no real need for these items as our adventure is near over. After the farewells we had one more night before we were back on the road again – made our way to the Haghia Sofia mosque to me even more impressive than the blue mosque – it was built in the 13th century – 4 centuries before the blue mosque is even bigger and grander and has withstood many more earthquakes and what is very more impressive is that it is largely almost intact to this day. Took many pics inside – then wandered around the Topkapi palace before once again doing another amble through the grand bazaar . Then back to the hotel – wifiing and chilling some, before heading just up the road for some traditional Turkish at a very traditional Turkish restaurant. Restaurant very busy . Enjoyed the noisy ambience, even had Turkish music. Watched some telly when back at the hotel before drifting off.
Another reasonably clear morning , mostly a day on the road today, up for brekkie early and checked out of the hotel by 9.00am – wanted to beat the morning traffic in the local area – especially through the tight streets of Sultanahmet then onto an arterial route (Kennedy drive ) which took us all the way out past the airport and back towards the greek border – around 170 k’s away. Stopped for some diesel and some food supplies in Ipsala before we crossed the border – even had farmers coming to collect their groceries on their tractors , as their were several tractors parked in the supermarket carpark– had around a 15 minute smoko break wait at the actual border – but sailed through no problem – past all four checkpoints again.
Made a beeline back to Alexandroupoli – pulled in around 3pm set up camp – had stayed at this camp on they through to Turkey couple weeks back so had no trouble finding it, decided to camp here and do some spring cleaning on Hugo – had bought some cleaning products at the supermarket in Turkey. Parked absolute beachfront – as it was a fine and clear blue sky – we would have front row seats to another tres magnifique sunset. Spent a couple hours do some spring cleaning – as no Barbie anymore – pork chops and veggies on the gas burner for dinner tonite.
Woke to another splendid greek morning – cruisy start – will head further around the coast also back to another stop we made a couple weeks ago in Kavala, but will try a different campground. Only around 160 k’s to travel today, enjoyed our second to last brekkie on the Aegean coast in warm sunshine. Pulled into our next stop Batis Beach camp about 2pm, only ones their, leaves piled everywhere throughout the campground – found a spot, found a camp ladder – very handy for cleaning the roof and polishing the over cab – both spent several more hours until almost dark giving Hugo a good clean up.
Had another camper pull in latter in the arvo – camper with dutch plates but with a North Californian couple – Chuck and Clair. Unusual to find an American couple doing the Europe tour especially in a camper, good on them – ended up chatting to chuck for a bit – they had been into town for a big lunch – but invited them over to share a wine and conversation latter on after dinner. Both retired university professors doing their big OE adventure. Were going to spend around a year travelling just like us, had a buy back lease arrangement with their campervan, had also had trouble with the gear transmission and after getting it repaired they still had issues with it. Nice couple enjoyed their company – gave them maps, our spare Europe atlas and more info. on campgrounds etc. for their journey – as ya do.
Woke to a misty morning the next morning – bid our fellow American campervanners farewell – they left around the same time as us from batis beach – had come recommended by pommie’s Mike & Ann – but would not go back their again.
Rooled along the coast – in some ways very similar to the French Riviera but not in the same class, but siimiliar. Plenty fisherman in their skiffs silhouetted against the hazy misty sea and sky, our last impressions of the Aegean sea.
Travelling back down familiar highways made it easy and quicker to get to our destination, did try to dodge some tolls just outside Thessanoliki but to no avail, missed out by 5 k’s. Then up over a mountain plateau inland towards Meteora, a few windy roads and then some valleys before almost unexpectedly arriving in the amazingly shaped rocks of Meteora. It was a bit of a hike to get their after being diverted down some secondary roads. Still we pulled into camp around 2pm – nobody around at camping Vrachos when first pulled in- did have a squiz at the facilities – ok to average – not worst we have come across
Met a young French couple staying their, decided to have a look around the town and at other campground options, which we did – but after visiting a couple others also not so great campgrounds, went back to Vrachos and booked in for a night at least. Did some more polishing on the Hugo before dark. The weird shaped rocks of meteora made interesting silhouettes against the night sky as sun set and even more unusual as the star came out. Pasta meal for dinner – both watched a Dvd before bed – both very tired, should both sleep well tonite. Temp. outside has certainly dropped a few degrees . Just a short whinge here, have been rather disappointed in the level and quality of campgrounds throughout Greece – in the twenty plus countires visited so far on our tour would rate Greece campgrounds in the bottom five.
Woke to a misty morning – did have some drizzle during the night. Decided to have a camp day, did some washing, a few loads, Did sneak out later in the early arvo once the mist had lifted and the skies cleared , did a tiki tour around the fabled monasteries of Meteora – their are only six left of the original twenty-five, what is unique about these churches and monasteries are they are all precariously perched on top of these rocks – building feats in their own right, mostly built during the 16/17 th centuries. Only the big fellow knows why they would build schools, buildings of worship on top of these amazingly shaped rocks. Visited one properly by foot and just drove past taking piccies of the others. Amazing scenery with the newer town down below – at the bottom of these rocks/mountains – interesting perspective. Did a Lidl supermarket shop later in the arvo before heading back to camp and keeping a close watch on our washing – the French couple had left couple by now. Plenty of younger greek rock climbers by the look staying for the night. Did some more wifiing, reading – managed to get majority of washing dry.
Early dinner , both watched a Dvd – then bedtime.
Woke to a beautiful morning – clear blue skies and morning sunlight casting interesting shadows across the rocks of meteora- did take some snappies. Headed out of Meteora around 10.00am – around 2 ½ hour drive to Igoumenitsa – through some very mountainous terrain and one very big but picturesque valley. The last 60/70 k’s recently completed motorway – numerous tunnels through the mountains. When we arrived in Igoumenitsa changed our plans for the ferry again – decided to head back tonite instead of tomorrow nite as had planned – even then we were a couple days early than our original Dec.4 th booking. Had a late lunch on the harbour’s edge enjoying the sun streaming in for the arvo – the ferry didn’t leave till 10.00pm – so had around 6/7 hours to kill before embarkation. So did some blogging – lotsa reading
- did end up having dinner on the wharf – did have to got throrough a border control .
The ferry pulled into Igoumenitsa almost exactly on time – a Minoan Lines ferry was first with Anek right in behind like clockwork – I’m still staggered by the way these massive ships are manoeuvred in such minimal spaces for docking – amazing skills.
In a rather short time we were on board and pulling out almost before we got to our room – left Hugo in amongst all the semi’s. Couldn’t camp on board this trip – so had a cabin with en-suite for our return crossing back to Ancona again. Did have wifi on board and did pay 5 euros for 45 mins. worth but connection seriously crappy. Did a small tour before we both crashed around 11.00pm – another sleep to the gentle rocking of the seas – although the sea a little more vigorous than our last crossing.

Both of us didn’t sleep particularly well and the weather next morning not the best either – no rain – but very cloudy and windy. Both showered and headed up for brekkie – very average in quality,taste and presentation – really how I would sum up my general Greece experience unfortunately. When we docked about 1pm in Ancona- disembarkation very swift – no border control here just drove straight of the ferry and onto our designated motorway north – we headed back up to Bellaria to another campground we stayed previously in may this year – the weather and temp. being very different, it also happened to one of few open along this coast this time of year.

Pulled into Camping Happy around 3pm – once again only campers their for night – booked in for two nights – more spring cleaning to do on Hugo and weather forecast for tomorrow supposed to be good. We were all so ahead of our timeframe and schedule and the facilities we remembered from our last stay were very good.
We set up close to the sanitary block and bunkered in for the night – had several drizzles during the afternoon and night. Had another earliesh dinner and two Dvd’s tonite before bed. Have been using up back-up supplies from the bottom cupboard – little left now to use up which is good.
As forecast woke to a sunny morning and even the temperature was several millibars greater than yesterday – good day to do more washing and cleaning of Hugo – probably our last before we get back to UK.
Spent most of morning doing the chores and after lunch we drove to Cesentanico – a town Briar enjoyed last time we were here – drove around – very much more deserted than last time also- even when heading back to Bellaria along the beachfront road the apartments, hotels and shops looked ghostly – did stop and wandered down to the beach just to have a look – nobody or anything about. Called into the local Ipermarket in a nearby shopping centre in Bellaria near our campground. Did a small shop for a few items – decided on fresh fish for dinner – yum.
Back at camp the washing taking longer to dry than expected – camp dryer bloody useless. Back at camp some wifiing and planning for our drive north back up to Calais – have been also getting frequent calls about Hugo from three very interested buyers all wanting the first call on our arrival back in the UK. Enjoyed our fish for dinner – as well as a Dvd. Would have an early start tomorrow – Briar’s turn to drive – 320 k’s at least 5 hours travel.
Will sign off as the beginning of a new month today – December 1st. Have a stop in Switzerland for a couple days with Ernst, Pim and Jenny again on way back through, but will be in winter and in the snow this time – both looking forward to that.
Second last blog update – next one will be from the US – we have a week stopover in New York on way back to NZ .
So for now – Arrivedeici