October Update

1. Taking the Bus down the Danube - Budapest Hungary
2. View from Eisriesenwelt Hohle(Ice caves)Werfen - near Salzburg
3. Sunset at Paradise Camping - Peloponese Island - Greece
4. Street in Nafplio - Peloponese Isand - Greece
5. The Chain Bridge and Danube River - Budapest Hungary
6. Laundry, Suntanning and camp day - Lake heviz Slovenia
7. Hugo on board the Olympic Princess car ferry - on way to Patra - Greece
8. Epidavros Amphitheatre - Peloponese Isand - Greece
9. Briar on the rooftop terrace bar - Hotel Stein - Salzburg
10.Briar & Mark on the Dragon Bridge - Ljubjlana Slovenia
11.Briar & Mark at Schloss Schonnbrunn - Vienna Austria
12.Picturesque Lake Bled- Slovenia




October Update 2009

Weather for our second day in Hungary – superbly fine & clear, but a little cooler and that European haze back again as we drove outta Komaron and beat a track along next to the Danube – around 20 deg temps. still shorts & t-shirt weather. Roads off the beaten track (alias motorways) bit marginal but passed through several quaint villages along the Danube – Esztergom our first stop – mainly to visit the largest Basilica in Hungary - an impressive domed structure perched on a hilltop overlooking the Danube – awesome. Did the usual snappie thing before heading off again further around the Danube – Visegrad next stop – where the Kiralyi Castle/ Cittadella built by 13th century Hungarian kings sits with spectacular views off the Danube river both ways and across to towns dotted along the Danube river in Slovakia .
The cittadella had some patchwork remodelling as with most castles throughout Europe – more to safeguard the hordes of tourists that pass through these ruins. Interestingly this was the oldest seat of European rule.
Stopped for lunch inda carpark - then onto Budapest only around 35k’s from Visegrad– still early in the arvo to check out a camper/caravan dealer - had done some previous wifiing to find the only dealer in Budapest and get GPS co-ordinates – found our dealer , who had not only replacement campervan table legs ( that were too short) but also roof vents which we also badly needed for both the kitchen extractor fan & heater/fridge – long story – but the short version Briar managed to find a low-lying branch on the French Riviera many moons ago which literally shredded both our vents- that had up until today had several lots of duct tape (I provided that part!)stopping the rain from getting in.
So with much intonation and sign language ( as I understood didly squat of Hungarian and they understood a minute amount of English) the shorter table leg required a packer to get it to the right height, hey we drove out 40 minutes later with a new and stronger table leg and 2 new vents minus the duct tape – yippee. (And I still drove rght under a branch as we headed off up the raod…what is that about?)
So on we headed for Camping Niche which was only around 10 k’s away, so negotiating homebound peakhour traffic (tright through the guts of the city…again for me) – no worries. Pulled into the campground appropriately named – which was an olde tram station in its previous life. Stuck right under a mountain – well actually a bloody big hill with a chairlift mind you – which Briar & I rode on our second arvo in Buda. Checked in – ya campsite came with brekkie – weird first time in Europe for that ( it needed to be, as this was one of the most expensive in Europe so far) The facilities were marginal but had free wifi and a bus stop couple hundred yards away. As we set up an Aussie couple who we had run into at Camping Wien in Vienna came over for a chat. They came over later on as we did the anti-pasto and vino thing and fired up the Barbie.
We had a choice piece of rump steak – the first in weeks – so we all savoured the smell it made from the Barbie as well as the taste of a good piece of barbequed meat like back home – I’m sure Kane & Fiona were salivating at the site as well.
Even had another lot of young aussie lads (six of them on van tour in a Ford Transit mind –you (F..K THAT) wandering back and forward to the showers making kind remarks about the aroma drifting across the campground. Lads heading in to town for the nite.
You guesses it… 5 bottles of vino and a couple beers not counting aussie Fiona’s sterling effort of 2 bottles of blanco vino on her own – she did appear to be dribbling a lot towards the end of the evening – great couple (Kane an ex-pat kiwi – been in west oz for a decade and Fiona – (good olde west coast sheila) – they were about two months into their six month Europe stint. Excellent night had by all of course – amazing amount of stories and bullshit comes out when folks are chewing the fat with a few (wrong choice of word- copious would probably have been a better choice) vinos besides a Barbie or just a open flamed fire.
I know the young girls didn’t crawl outta bed till after lunch on good authority – hard arse campaigners like Briar & I were up at sparrows fart ( yeah right) Still we were up and out and on the 10.30am into the centre of Budapest.
The weather doing the right thing again , buonissimo. Checked out the Parliament building – splendid copy of Westminster Abbey in London – St.Stephens basilica – wandered thru a few streets and parks of Pest – one side of the city is called Buda and the newer side on the other side of the river is called Pest . Funny that. – Budapest as a whole was a bit more cosmopolitan than I was expecting – don’t know why I thought this.
Stopped for a coffe and a panini in a piazza somewhere in pest. Walked over the Chain bridge and then along the Danube toward the Margeret bridge where we caught our bus back to the campground – where we jumped on the chairlift (about a 7-8 min ride up to the top – didn’t have enough time really to do the walks to get what would have been sublime vistas over the whole of Budapest – caught up with the crew – another young aussie couple pulled into camp – so did the usual nosey parker intro etc.
An hour later we were all huddled around the campground outdoor timber tables knockin a few bevies back and swapping bullshit again. Even the aussie lads joined in and suggested we all head into town and check out the latest club rave in Buda – Instant – so we all did an hour later – dunno what it is with the young lot these days – we caught the latest possible bus into town after the girls changed clothes several times to get the right look with the right outfit and the lads smeared wet look gel thru their hair upteen times – 10.45pm we headed in.
Look out Buda – after a bit of street searching we finally found the place – in my perceptive manner I could see why they called it instant – it was a derelict old disused building with an open courtyard in the middle that had been instantly put together in a hurry to form a nightclub. Had a few modern titbits here and there, and it did have an underground cellar jam bar & dance floor – which I admit to shakin a few John Travolta steps on. No ventilation so didn’t last to long down their.
The club had also lotsa nooks and crannies to it – mostly left untouched apart from the odd salvation army sofa or chair mixed with s/steel bar stools and leather – don’t figure. But it works as the place was packed with the local in crowd. Mumsie & I beat a track outta their around 2.00am – stopped for a macca’s fortunately still open only just and caught aTaxi ride home – leaving the youngies to it.
Besides we would have cramped their style I’m sure. We had a great nite – Oh to be young again.
Both had a slower start to the day, but up and out again by 11am. Managed to score several freshly cooked pancakes from the dining room today , they also made a delicious fried bread – bit like fried maori bread. The tea was crap but the coffee Ok if it was warm. The girls got home at daybreak with a couple of the young aussie lads. In town on the Buda side of the river we caught the funicular up the Varhegy ( Buda Castle hill) – this walled complex houses the Matyas Templon, Kiralyi Palota, Halaszbastya and also gives stunning views over pest and the Danube on a day like today was. We had a coffee and a filled roll for lunch – then headed back down the funicular and caught a train out to the Szechenyi Furdo ( Baths) very much like the olde Blue Baths in Rotorua but on a much grander scale.
Whilst there are three big outdoor pools in varying temps. there are also 10 indoor pools of varying temps and sizes – when ya come outta the changing room ya wander through a labrinyth of indoor rooms with pools before you get to the bigger outdoor ones. Spent a leisurely couple of hours soaking up not just the rays from the sun , but also these supposedly mineral waters.
There were plenty of olde men around who looked as though they spent a whole lotta time chilling out here. Even watched a chess game (being played IN the pool by old fellas) for awhile – no doubt a favourite past time for some of the regulars. The Hungarians seem to be particularly fond of bathing it appears. Took a couple snappies for the record. Then back on the trains into town for a cheap dinner – had me first feed of KFC in Europe , not bad either and bussed back to camping Niche – did some wifiing before a Dvd and bed. The girls had pretty much a home day – still in bed watchin Dvd’s when we got home around 7.00pm. Much cooler night tonite – down around maybe 5 or 6 degrees.
Woke to another splendid morning – Kane and Fiona (kiwi/Ozzie friends) also hit the trail early – passed on a few camping guides, maps and brochures – as ya do – bid them farewell – swapped email addresses, etc. We also hit the road around 10.30-11.00am in glorious sunshine – Heading toward Slovenia with a 2 day stop at Lake Heviz – a natural thermal spa lake – with amazing healing powers due to the many minerals bubbling up from underneath the earths crust.
From Budapest pretty much a straight motorway dash through the middle of the country, then along next to Lake Batalon – Hungaries largest lake. Countryside fairly barren most of the way – till we got near Lake Batalon – where the usual European cultivated fields of barley, wheat and maize were growing or some had been cultivated, many fields of stubble and ploughed dirt.
Turned off the highway about half way along Lake Batalon on to a secondary road which ran along the lakeside – where their were numerous holiday houses , camping grounds , restaurants – majority closed or empty of course being the time of year – so not much traffic on the roads either. Found Heviz town which we drove around first to get our bearings – past the infamous thermal Lake Heviz and then booked into the campground which is right next to Lake Heviz – across the road actually.
The campground infact is bisected by a man made channel-come stream which Lake Heviz feeds out of and all so as we noticed where all the locals go dipping just outside the campground for the freebie water healing powers this Lake supposedly delivers. The main lake is fenced off - its more off a giant sized pool than a lake – but its not man made, there’s reeds at the lake edges (and lillie pads to swim with in places – eels I expect as well…) and you have to pay $8.00 euros for a dip. It has timber boarded walkways around the edges with many changing facilities and a huge pavilion in the middle of the lake with many decks surrounding the pavilion with sunloungers everywhere for sunbaking.
We set up camp after finding a spot next to the stream through the middle of the camp and handy enough to the toilet block for the girls. We all then donned our swimsuits and wandered around the corner to Lake Heviz for a dip. Because it was later on in the arvo – around 4.30pm and they close the gates at 6.00pm – we were only charged $4.00 euro each – sweet as. Wandered around the Lake edge till we came to a wharf with some spare sunloungers, down the timber steps and into the water – very dark greenish in colour – definite aroma to it – had lotsa galvanised and timber bars where ya could hang off – all the german tourists and locals drifted around in their plastic blow-up flotation rings – as the bottom is very deep and none of us were game enough to dip our heads under little own check out the bottom. Chaz a little freaked out about the experience – but good on her for hanging in for half an hour or so. The rest of us came outta their after an hour or so feeling amazingly invigorated mentally at least – whether or not it made an iota of a difference to our well-being I’m sure the vino’s later on would do just as good a job. ( yep only look 45 years old now…) Back at camp we all showered before mumsie cooked us a superb pasta meal in the camp kitchen – of course I kept the camper and vino’s in check. Did the Dvd thing again after dishes. Bit of a camp, laundry and spring clean Hugo day tmoro – weather supposed to be good.
Well the weather lived up to the predictions and not a cloud in the sky following morning – so after brekkie set up clothes lines all around Hugo – as well as the tarp out – so could even put the duvee’s, mattresses and cushions out for a breather.
So glad we were down the end away from the rest of the campers – clothes and stuff to kingdom come hanging everywhere – four loads of washing later – hey, looking forward to the feel and smell of clean sheets tonite – it’s the small things that count so they say and their right.
The day turned out so warm that I spent the majority without me shirt on and the girls even donned their bikinis and sun baked for a couple hours.
Not much else – did some reading – a bit of blog updating – lunched and later in the arvo – did a wander thru the town – checked a restaurant for dinner later on that night- picked up a postcard as ya do. (Definitely a place oldies hoard to – the young lasses were not impressed with the average age of the lad in the street – 70 ish with a limp or two as well – those healing powers promise heaps it seems)
Back to Hugo where we put him back together again and took down the three clothes lines- all showered before wandering back into town later on had a very nice and relatively cheap hungarian feed – I feasted on some of the traditional local fare. Girls not so ambitious. Delicious. Had a ice-cream around the corner to use up the last of our Hungarian kuna’s. No Dvd tonite – everybody read before lights out.
Next morning superb again for our next adventure into nearby Slovenia – country no.20 I think. After paying the bill hit the road fairly early – if ya call 10.20am early – hey this camping and ya never see the Spanish or Italians rushing around except on the roads where they all think they are Michael Schumaker’s. So Ces’t La vie to Hungary.
Lake Hevis is around 80k’s from the Slovenian border – once again crossed another border with no checkpoint or even sign saying ya crossed – pulled into a gas station across the border – we know this cause they charged us in euros – the currency of Slovenia. Filled up with gas and had a filled roll each before hittng the highway again. After 10k’s or so of motoring along the higway in Slovenia definite change in scenery – lotsa forests – apparently 65 % off Slovenia is in forest. Getting closer into Autumn now the colours of the leaves as they go from green to the yellows – gives the clusters of forests across the hills a very spectacular look.
The roads are also noticeably better than Hungary’s. Whilst in Hungary did ask a shop owner what Hungary’s main export was – he couldn’t tell me- maybe wine – who knows. No wonder it was in the bottom half of Europe’s cheaper countries but not the cheapest. Anyways we pulled off the main Slovenian motorway which seems to go through the middle of it from one end to the other. Headed for Camping Menina just along from Varpolje another ACSI camp had researched on the net earlier. Up near the Kamnik-Savinja mountains – northern Slovenia, right on the Austrian border.
When we pulled into the camp entrance no one around except for a little old lady who didn’t speak English – just pointed to find a campsite we presumed – the owner back in the morning. Very scenic camp in the countryside, found a nice spot next to the waterhole – half empty – no mossies though. Only us and a couple in a tent in the campground , set up Hugo – pulled out the camp chairs and table – had a cuppa before doin the usual anti-pasto and vino thing – had topped up the fridge and cupboards with supplies when we got across the border.
Fired the barbie up – all enjoyed a good hunk of slovenian steak and salad. Even got out the marshmallows to toast for desert. Sweet as – another Dvd after the girls had done the chores. Hard case toilet block – had a urinal next to the handbasins
And chemical toilet just partitioned off from each other but not the rest of the camp or people walking by. – took a snappie – first one like this seen on tour.
The next morning again – superb warm weather – all showered and brekkied – about to head off when the camp owner (kia ora bro…he greeted us – had been to NZ last summer!) asked us to be in an interent promotion for his campground – which we obliged of course – all donned our kiwi t-shirts first off course – nothing like a bit of patriotism and homeland advertising ourselves. Had a 20 minute spiel to go through about the campground, the local areas, Savinja mountains , Slovenian cuisine and wines etc.etc. by the owner before we got away – we were gonna head straight to Ljbljhana the Slovenian capital but because of the spiel by the camp owner about the local area we decided to explore some more of the mountain scenery he had talked about close by first.
Plied our way up a mountain pass to a place called Logarske Dolina. (supposed to be a fantastic waterfall there…but it’s the end of summer so we saw a wee trickle..ha!) Had lunch and a coffee up there amongst the forest – very picturesque – reminded me a bit of Switzerland and the Scwharzwald of Germany – but with autumn colours . Another interesting fact about Slovenia is because it is 65% covered in forest it also boasts the highest bear population in Europe, thankfully didn’t share our coffee’s and lunch with any.
Back on the road again back the way we came – wasn’t game enough to push Hugo through the mountain trail – very windy and narrow. Back on the motorway easy hour before hitting Ljubljana – headed straight for the campground. Once set-up chilled down at the camp bar/restaurant for a couple local tap beers in the arvo sun. We were camped next to a campervan with Irish no. plates on that we had also camped next to in Vilnius in Lithuania, but didn’t manage to catch up with them there, or at Auschwitz where they were parked as well.
But …we certainly did here and wouldn’t ya know it they were kiwi’s Manesh, Emma & Hamish doing the Europe tour. Shared a couple vino’s and stories as ya do as we cooked dinner on the Barbie again – the weather still warm enough to do so. Swapped info. and some maps on Hungary by us and Croatia by them. We seem to be bumping into kiwis and ozzies on tour a lot at this end of our adventure – certainly more so than the beginning. Dvd before beddyby’s.
Woke up to an unusual morning very hazy and foggy almost – Briar and I up and outta there by 10.00am – girls still in bed – the norm. Difference being we are on tour they are on holiday I guess.
Caught one of the local buses into town – didn’t have change – only enough for one fare – bus driver not to happy – not much we could do – he didn’t have any change at all and the camp didn’t sell bus tickets either. ( a great scheme for those in the know – you just chuck a euro in the drivers see through bin – simple!)
Once near the centre we got off and headed for the main piazza , next to the three bridges, the Ljubljana cathedral , the central food markets all which are next to the Drava river which runs through the middle of Ljubljana – like so many other European cities – rivers being the main motorways of centuries ago. A mini Budapest or Prague really – perhaps a little more cosmopolitan.
Slovenia’s history has a very spasmodic past without to much identity really – being probably part of Yugoslavia for so many years that I can remember until recent times where it became part of a tri-war with Bosnia/Serbia and Croatia who have all sliced up the old Yugoslavia to become their own separate identities.
Did the sightseeing bits as ay do – visiting the castle, museum the olde district – stopped for lunch at a local hangout – excellent panini’s best so far in Europe.
Met up with the girls who had decided to venture into town – we also had decided to have dinner in town – at a traditional Slovenian restaurant – had been given a couple of places by our next door kiwi campers. Stopped for a drink at a bar next to the river – an irish rugby bar – bloody irish are everywhere.
After doing a bit of wandering to find a restaurant – finally found a traditional one – where gotme mushroom soup in a cob loaf and a Slovenian meat platter – excellent hearty soul food. Not quite sure what some of it was but it sure tasted good and plenty off it – had far too much of course.
The girls were far more sedate in their approach to the local fare, mumsie had a good feed of lamb chops (her favourite). Waddled outta there after a couple hours all the girls went for an ice-cream (got a crepe instead to share) – Me far to full for one of those. Did some more wandering the streets of Ljubljana at night, before heading further up to the main drag to catch a bus back to camp. A wee bit of reading by all before – lights out.
Our kiwi neighbours like ourselves were back on the road again- they pulled out a lot earlier than us. Bloody girls take ages to get themselves up and away.
As turned out we weren’t going anywhere very far, as I kicked old Hugo over to get off the chocks – he spluttered a few times before dying on us. The fuel filter was leaking seriously and had given up the ghost- after some much needed help from our camp receptionist – a tow truck appeared half an hour later and Hugo was given a piggy-back ride outta camp to a Fiat truck service centre on the outskirts of Ljubljana.
Whilst it was a bit of a pain and a costly piggy back (tow-truck $140 euros – parts & labour $20.00euros ) ride to get a new part put on – which the Fiat guys did on the back of the tow-truck before firing Hugo into life again. Thank god we didn’t break down whilst in the Savinja mountains, where we had been sightseeing a couple days before – both Briar & I noticed Olde Hugo to be a bit sluggish on the motorways a few days beforehand. (typical girl – I had asked Mark to do up his window as I could feel the ‘drag’ and couldn’t maintain my motorway speed…70mph..trucks were threatening to pass me and I don’t have that happening…now a mechanic I am not…but the writing must have been on the wall for us then)
After a two-hour $160.00 euro interruption – once again we were on our way to Lake Bled – weather being very hazy but with patches of blue sky.
Never quite see this kinda haze over here back in Olde NZ, but seems to be the norm in many countries throughout Europe that we have travelled. Stopped for a bite to eat at a parking bay/toilet stop on the motorway to Bled. Fresh baguette with ham & salad – yum. Pulled into Bled around 2pm – very cloudy day – found a parking lot in the middle and did the wander around.
Once down at the Lakeside – one can see why this is a much heralded and talked about destination for foreigners to come and see. The vibrant turquoise and green colours of the lake are absolutely amazing – only seen these colours once before at Capri Island out from Sorrento in Italy. A shame the weather was so iffy – the colours would certainly have been better again had the sun been shining on the lake. Wandered around the edge for a bit taking in the spectacular colours of not just the lake but the autumn colours of the forests that also line the lake – Also happened to have a castle on top of a rock face which plunged down to the lake – the ever usual cathedral and a little island in the middle of the lake complete also with a Church and monastery. (Catholics loved to have all of the hilltops – everywhere…they must have hated walking up to church on Sundays surely! Some are on massive hills!) Undoubtebly one of the more scenic spots on our adventure so far – certainly in the top five. We also timed our visit right as there was going to be a big celebration the following day at the Park Hotel – one of several hotels around the Lake Bled’s edge. The hotel is famous for the ‘Bled Cream Cake’ which can only be found and bought in Bled . The celebration was that they were up to selling their 10 millionth slice – yes that’s right the 10 millionth slice since the pastry chef at the Park hotel invented this masterful piece of culinary delight.
We decided to stop in and check it out ourselves with a coffee – the place was busy with busloads of tour groups – but we weren’t in a hurry like the tour groups – so we waited a little (long) while before being eventually served. We managed to snare a better table with great views across the lake once the bus loads had gone. The wait was worth it – the coffee wasn’t too bad – but the Bled Cream Cake was divine ( an apt choice of word) . Would surely be one of the best cakes I’ve ever had – very similar to the custard square back home – but way better. Everyone licked their plates clean.
After knocking our tastebuds into heaven (can you tell he has given up smoking!!) we left the Park Hotel rooftop café and headed back to Hugo – made it back just before it peed down. Drove around the lake to the far end where Camp Bled was, booked in and found a spot not to far away from the toilets – being a rainy arvo and predicted night as well. Not a lot for the rest of the arvo – did fire the Barbie up and dodge the raindrops as I cooked under the trees. Had dinner – taught the girls how to play crib – after a few hours of crib – girls got thrashed so gave up – watched a Dvd before drifting off to sleep to the sound of raindrops hitting Hugo’s roof.
The following morning wasn’t much better I’m afraid but it was due to get better in the arvo. After a late start, showers and brekkie the rain had stopped and we decided to catch the miniature train shuttle which shunts around the lake edge once every hour and half we caught it back into town to check out the celebrations and find a place for lunch. The Park Hotel was packed with people, band playing and local notaries and no doubt the upper management of the hotel doing speeches. Managed to get a sneak look and snappie of the giant Bled Cream Cake no doubt were gonna share around for free later. The cake was housed in a 4 x 4m tent and it went right to the edge of the tent each way. None of us fancied hanging around for too long , Ah well another time maybe.
Wandered around the northern side of the Lake found a cute rustic little back street pizzeria where we stopped for pizza and salads. As good as pizza as anywhere had in Europe in fact it was probably better than any had in Italy. – Funny That. After lunch caught the little train back to the other of the lake where we hired a dinghy and all had turns at rowing out to the island in the middle – actually I rowed out and the girls all had turns at rowing back.
Once again now that the sky was clearing the turquoise colours of lake were outstanding. Once on the island had a wee walk around – didn’t bother going in the church or monastery museum cause of an entry fee. Got some nice piccies however - once back on the lake we skirted around the lake edges getting more piccies. After an hour or so, time up on our dinghy hire – rowed back to the dinghy man – as he was only about 100 metres from the camp entry.
Back at camp girls turn to cook dinner but not before a few vino’s and some anti-pasto. Girls had another crack at the Crib after dinner – Chaz even managed to win one game and mumsie the other. All did some reading before lights out. Second last nite before the girls depart on the separate way from us. (Ohhh I will miss them – they stop at shops…and buy girlie stuff…and just like to look as well…)
Woke to a splendid clear blue sky Slovenian morning – very warm early on. After the usual 3x S’s and brekkie – motivated the girls early enough and we hit the trail around 10.00am – headed south back towards Ljubljana – we were actually gonna skirt around on our way to Trieste just north of the Croatian border. The girls had to catch a train from here to Venice ( 2 day stop) before flying onto Paris(3 day stop) and then back to the UK for a week before doing the big one and flying non-stop home to NZ.
Would have liked to have had more time in Slovenia to do a bit more exploring – really only touched the fringes.
Crossed the Italian border around midday – great to see the coastline again after several months it seemed inland – can’t beat the smell of sea air – just something about it. Trieste interesting city at the bottom of a cliff face with a big harbour and port area and a very steep road down to it. A lot going on near the harbour – place jampacked for a Sunday – noticed lotsa stalls near the waterfront. Managed to circumnavigate our way down to the main train station – so the girls could get a train timetable – then headed north towards Malfalcone a small town around 20k’s north of Trieste.
As we drove along the coast road there were hundreds of yachts obviously a part of some huge regatta – stopped and took some piccies even. The temp was around 25/26 degrees – lotsa people along the seashore sunbaking. Excellent.
Pulled into our camp around 2pm set-up camp, had a quick bite to eat and then headed down to the pool – pulled up a sunlounger / had a dip ( water a wee bit chilly) and spent the arvo reading and catching rays. The girls went for a wander into the small village about 500metres back. Could see the yacht’s from where we were – even though we weren,t in a viewpoint site. Little marina down below us – the camp perched 100m or so up the cliff face on a plateau. As we hadn’t grocery shopped for a few days and being a Sunday in Italy – no supermercado’s open.
Had to rustle up a store cupboard- pasta & tomato salsa dinner – had some anti-pasto stuff – so all good.
Now as the days get shorter the sun sets faster – we are eating abit earlier also. As I had swum during the arvo didn’t worry about a shower – the girls all went for one- then had another card evening playing crib – now that the girls have become enthused with it. Girls night again – I did win the first – then mumsie and chaz one the last – poor old Hannah the only one – winless. Once again a bit of reading before lights out – girls last night’s sleep in Hugo forever. Buono notte signora’s.
Well the morning was a complete contrast from the preceding evening – cloudy and windy , had bucketed down several times during the night – once again so glad had packed everything (chairs/table) away in the garage. So only the electric cable and door mat got wet. Hugo’s infamous electric stairs still playing up in the wet, has a mind all of its own when it rains. At least it wasn’t raining as we showered and packed up Hugo , had an early start – the girls needed to catch he train at 9.15am in Malfalcone about a 10 min. drive north of the camp along the coast road. Made it with 15mins. to spare.
Girls all packed up like packhorses – both back and front even with leaving several bulky items behind with us. Took a few last minute piccies – big hugs … a few tears and then we drove on back towards the Croatian border – stopped at a local supermercado – for a few brekkie items only – Briar did a shop while I rode shotgun in Hugo.
Had a bite before we travelled along the main highway south – the closer we got to the border the uglier and wilder the weather got. By the time we got to the Slovenian – Croatian border crossing it was fair pissing down – we thought another relaxed crossing – another wave on through – NOT – when we entered Slovenia no checks. But different story as we left Slovenia.
In fact this was the first time we had been asked to produce our passports for checking- (since Heathrow on Dec 1 last year!!)we were also asked how long we had been in the EU – off course we replied since last December – around 10 months or so.
As we had no border stamps apart from the arrival stamp in Heathrow back on Dec. 1st.
The young Slovenian borderguard who also happened to be a woman said that there was a problem as we were only supposed to in the EU for a max. 90 days unless we had a visa – which of course we didn’t have. So we were told to pull over to the left – OH OH. So we pulled over to the left about 50m up and waited for our little Slovenian blonde borderguard who appeared at the passenger side door 5 mins. later holding our passports. She ranted and raved on about us being illegally in the EU, and that we would need a visa which cost around $400.00 euros to get one. We of course challenged her by saying that we could legally enter each country as long as we didn’t stay longer than the 90 days in each country- which she replied this is not correct, so we played the dumb, ignorant tourist line and look, and fortunately the rain suddenly got really heavy and our borderguard was getting very wet – she handed back our passports and told us we must immediately on arrival in Pula, Croatia go to the Croatian consulate and apply for a EU visa. OK whatever – so shut the door and quickly buggered off in the pouring rain – phew, our first hairy border experience – around 200m further we reached the Croatian border crossing, the usual check out the n. plates and then just waved on through without a blink of an eyelid.
We were later to find out from some fellow kiwi travellers the same blond borderguard had also pulled them over an demanded the $400.00 euro visa cost before they could leave Slovenia – instead they turned around and drove through another border crossing into Croatia without any hassle. No way in the world we were gonna pay for a $400.00 euro visa – with only 10 weeks of the adventure left.
As we drove along the motorway toward Pula the weather that may have saved us from further agony at the crossing, seemed to be clearing the closer we got to Pula. The clouds certainly did have that real stormy, angry look. As we arrived in Pula – for a 2/3 day stop maybe – we headed to a supermercado for a few days supplies. Found a park and both did a shop – had been told that Croatia is one of the safest countries in the world.
Still locked Hugo up as usual – strapped/ deadbolts and all. After a drive through the main centre and port area of Pula we pulled into Camping Stoja, in the Stoja area of course, around 2pm as the rain finally let up booked in for definite 2 maybe 3 nite stay – nice campground which is on a spit at the end of the harbour – about 5 k’s from the centre - found a spot not with an edge water view but sheltered from the weather which was not supposed to let up for the arvo and night.
So once plugged in we bunkered down for the night. Both snuck out for a shower later on – but both also enjoying the extra room and space at our disposal – seemed like ages since we had the camper to ourselves – in fact around 5 weeks. Had a nice chicken stir-fry dinner – a bit of reading and watched a Dvd before donning the horizontal mode. The weather didn’t pack it in either but as we awoke the next morning the sun had again come out and the clear blue sky had also returned – the temp had also dramatically improved on the previous day. Laundry chores first before hitting the metropolis of Pula. Shifted Hugo into a sunnier spot where could hang the clothes in the sun all day long. In the middle of a dozen or so campervanners full of deutchlanders and dutchies. Got the bikes down – decided to cycle into Pula being around 5 k’s out – nice little ride into town. Made some filled rolls – packed the backpack with some water and off we treddled. Did the olde town part as ya do Cathedral,main piazza the roman temple of Augusta and then onto Pula’s most famous landmark the Amphitheatre – one of the better preserved and intact ruins in Europe – they still even hold concerts there today.
We sat in it and ate our filled rolls. Cycled also up to the Venetian citadel which dominates the highest hill in Pula – then back down into the Arch of Sergius which is almost smack in the pedestrian shopping part of Pula . Interesting fruit & veg markets.
Rode home after an ice cream folded up the washing – did some wifiing over a couple beers at the camp bar. Pasta for dinner – Dishes – Dvd – sleep.
Up and outta amp Stoja early, sun shining again, but alas also plenty of cumulus cloud about also and the wind is back – big day driving down the Croatian coast – had to back track a bit to Rijeka – Briar freaking about running outta diesel – found a station near Rijeka – stopped for a coffee same time. Kept the worms at bay – on we drove – bypassed Rijeka – big port area very twisty windy main highway through here – nice to be near the coast again – the scenery is very much like the coast’s of Spain and Portugal – very rocky with conifers everywhere growing out of the cracks in the rocks.
Briar driving today - big effort lotsa winding road following the coastline – ducking in and out of inlets and coves for km after km – in fact near around 180 k’s all up. On ya girl. A very pretty drive I thought
No sign of any farming along this coastline – rock, rock and more rock as Briar said in her diary almost moonscape looking, but with the land and mountainous landscape dropping shear into crystal clear seas in shades of blues, greens and mostly turquoise. Spectacular stuff.
Stopped at a supermarket in Senj – nice roast chickens – decided to have a bite in the carpark which had spectacular views of the coast and Adriatic sea. Then the 180 k along the coast road before we pulled into our destination Camp Oaza Mira in a very scenic coastal village of Drage – great campsite in a great cove with excellent facilities. Fired the Barbie up and cooked a couple lamb chops under a starlit Croatian sky. Was a bit of windchill factor in there, not for hardarse kiwi’s but. A few other campervanners – not many.
Had a camp day following day – chilling really – aired the mattresses and duvet etc. a small load washing. Also moved Hugo up into a sunnier spot and also a better free wifi signal. Trying to organise payment for our forthcoming ferry crossings to Italy and then down to Greece. After lunch strolled around our little slice of Croatian heaven the cove and inlet complete with mini harbour and fishing boats – took piccies of the seawater – so clear unbelievable.
Even a few of the campers suntanning on the sheltered beach side away from the wind.
BBq chicken and veggies for tea tonite – lukewarm showers – reading – lights out.
A day of sightseeing along the way today – about 30 k’s further down the road from our camp we headed inland around 10k’s to the KRKA National park – where the Skradinski Buk ( Cascading waterfalls) are. A naturally formed series of waterfalls from the lake. A swift descent into the valley after paying for the $8.00 euro entry fee, good thing you can drive in. Parking down the bottom – as we were driving down looked pretty spectacular. Once parked, armed with map we hit one of the several wooden boardwalks that weave and intersect – along ,over , around the waterfalls – took around 1 ½ hours – but nice easy walk – wonderful scenery and magnifique waterfalls – plenty of piccies as you would expect.
Drove back up the top to where all the buses stop, so that the stall holder selling local products and wares can rip-off the tourists. Had a bite to eat before truckin on south toward Ploce – where we would catch a ferry across to the island of Peljesac – took the inner new motorway route – free – but not finished last 20 k’s into Ploce. Once again talk about moonscape scenery – even more so than when on the coast. In fact the final 20k’s down through a valley of cultivation – mostly vines but also noticeably citrus trees. Perhaps the only two things that can grow in this harsh environment. Pulled into Ploce around 5.00pm had a 2 hour wait before the ferry arrived – so did a supermarket shop at the local Lidl to kill some time. Waited at the port in line for the 7.00pm car ferry to arrive and leave again. Thought had to buy ticket on board – wrong – helpful ferry man raced us a cross the street to ticket office so could get on. – phew – Briar needed the exercise. Ay girl.
So once Hugo on board the ferry we sat inside in the passenger part- very dark by now and the clouds had rolled in and the wind had also picked up – oh no more crappy weather on the way by the feel of things. Pulled into Trpanj port on the island of Peljesac around 8pm – had another 15 k’s to go over the island to get to our campground near Orebic. Pulled in – no one around at reception – so just found a site – plugged in both showered and ate dinner around 10pm.
Both crashed to the sound of wind rustling through the pine trees surrounding the camper and site. No pine cones fell on the roof during the night – but very cloudy drab and ominous looking day – the forecast not crashhot either. Still we drove Hugo down to Orebic wharf where we caught another ferry out to the island of Korcula – as passengers this time – 20-25min trip .
Hooked up with some german tourists shared the cab fare into Korcula centre – about a 4k walk into town and the weather looked as though it was gonna fair piss down any minute. It did so about an hour later – but it did give us an hour to explore without being peed on. Korcula is a quaint little medieval village built on a small rocky peninsula on the northeastern tip of Korcula island – it is also the birthplace of Marco Polo and his brothers. We even climbed the tower he would spend many an hour as a child surveying the Adriatic seas – his house which is next door which is basically a shell now.
As with many medieval villages and towns we have now strolled the interweaving cobbled lanes never cease to amaze and enthral one’s temperament to explore some more. Had a coffee and some local cake (that non smoker again) in a coffee shop down one of the cobbled backlanes – which had a big Kiwi sign over the door.
Good enough for us.
Watched abit of soccer on the telly at one of the island bar’s as the weather again set in. Cleared enough for a few more piccies before a rendevous with our cab driver to take us back to the port terminal to catch the ferry back to Orebic. Had parked next to a smaller campervan back at Orebic harbour – had a NZ sticker on it – they left us a note under the wipers. Drove back to camp and did some wifi-ing before dinner – Weather still crappy according to the internet – supposed to get worse – great.
Still onwards tmoro we will roll. Once again windy and overcast morning – booked outta camp – shot across the road from the camp to the supermercado, very handy – Briar picked up a few supplies and on we went toward Dubrovnik. Had around 50k’s of windy Peljesac Island roads (and I seem to land the corners and gear shifts – call it a trip to the gymn really…) before getting back on to the mainland near Ston – had a spectacular stone wall which amazingly went up and over the hill down the other side and surrounded a citadel. Almost vertical in some places. Amazing but weird and still standing 6 centuries later.
Short drive into Dubrovnik –huge bridge to cross as we approached Dubrovnik – built out on a headland sought of- three cruise ships in port - headed straight to our campground – picked up a loaf fresh bread on the way in and near our campground Solitudo ( expensive camp – had free wifi I guess) facilities average – a few campervanners like us around weathering the shit weather. Bunkered in for lunch and a few hours of wifing – braved the elements late r in the arvo did a walk around our headland area.
Lotsa empty apartments and hotel rooms – quite amazing for this time of year – thought might have been a few more sightseers around. Managed to even dodge the raindrops - Gas top dinner tonite – showered and then wified and a Dvd huddled in bed together. Cam – Briar’s nephew has arrived in Split – will catch up with him in a day or two. The rain and wind didn’t let up most of the night and only improved marginalyl next morning. Showered and brekkied – we donned our wet weather gear and headed out into the elements. Briar even brave enough or stupid enough to wear shorts, she was wondering why everyone was looking at her – don’t figure huh. (a farmer thing – wet trousers – cold all day – wet legs –they dry pretty quickly…)
At the end of the day it is only water.
Caught the bus into the old walled town of Dubrovnik - once again a walled off town on a peninsula – this perhaps abit bigger and more spectacular than Korcula. The orange tiled roofs – stone faced facades of the buildings with years of sea and rainwater complimenting their colour and hue. It was a real shame we were going to experience such a wonderful place on such a shitty day.
The marbled streets, the baroque buildings, narrow alleys, monastery, several churches, fountains, stairs everywhere and its charming little port harbour would look resplendent under a clear blue Mediterranean sun. Not so under persistent rainfall and
gale force winds popping sightseers umbrellas inside out everywhere – ducking and diving, we managed to enter most of the attractions before finding a charming little side alley taverna for some lunch – a small front room about the size of Hugo – the lady packed us in together with three other tables of tourists – staying out of the rain and filling up on some warm food.
We both had soup and shared a seafood platter. The service, Croatian charm of the hostess and the antiquated surroundings more than made up for the average food. She did invite us back for dinner, but no way hosay. Hugo’s kitchen is leaps and bounds ahead. The worms weren’t complaining. The weather had finally let up whilst we were feeding the worms as planned. So we headed straight for the wall which circumnavigates the perimeter of the old town, well worth the 5 euros – If ya coming to Dubrovnik, the best view is via the wall walk with out a doubt.
Managed to do it with only a brief shower part way through – lotsa snappies. Then caught the bus home to Hugo – where we both headed for hot showers before more wifiing, dinner and a Dvd. The rain did let up for the night – but the wind did not.
Not much of a better picture the following morning as we headed north again to Split – the sun did appear as we approached the Croatian/Bosnian border crossing – don’t know if that was a good sign or not – but pretty much as usual – look at the no. plate no passports -anything to declare – no – drive on through. Had about 25/30 k’s Bosnian coastal countryside not too much different to Croatian coastal countryside – funny that.
Same thing again as we drove through the Bosnian/Croatian border – check the no. plates – no passports - anything to declare – dirve on through – made Split around 3pm – booked into camp Strobec – met Cam who showed up at our site about half an hour later – the sun was shining – a little windy – settled into our prime seafront possie – absconded some camp chairs and a table set the Barbie – invited some fellow campers who came over for a chat to dine with us – BYO meat and vino.
Did the antipasto thing and chilled, chewing the fat with Cam and our two new dutch friends – Chris & Kim ( had spent time in NZ & Oz before coming on their European adventure – So could almost speak the kiwi/oz lingo no worries mate.
Wined and dined long into the night as ya do when ya having fun and enjoying some English speaking company while on tour. Cam crawled into our bed at the back of Hugo – a lot more comfortable and warmer I’m sure than his pup tent.
Windy sunny day again – everyone a little slow this morning – did some laundry – then headed into town around midday. Wandered along the port/ferry areas , so could check out the prices etc.etc for our Split-Ancona crossing for next week and also times and costs for ferries out to Hvar island.
Wandered around the Diocletians Palace a square an almost impenetrable fortress – walls are around 5m metres thick in some places . Unfortunately vastly overrun with tourist, souvenir stalls, cafes and designer brand shops nowadays. Not too much different to most other ancient attractions throughout Europe – hey even we do it at home. Cam had spent a couple days in town before we got there so knew the lowdown or layout I should say.
Ran into another Kiwi couple, Vaughan and Briony, had spoken to earlier when catchin the bus into town – invited them over for a Barbie tonite – along with our two new dutch lady friends – all good. Stopped for barbi supplies at the local supermercado on way back to camp. All washing dry – folded – packed away in cupbd’s. Bit of reading before – doing the nibbles and Barbie thing again.
Once again a good night sharing stories, adventures, memories with all and washed down with good Croatian red. Not in the copious amounts of the preceding night – Much more control shown by Briar, a precedent not shared by me. Packed it in earlier as well tonite – might have something to do with the chill factor in the wind.
The predicted stormy weather arrived again in full force during the night and very crappy day next day – a nothing south of a day – reading and Dvd’s interrupted only by lunch, dinner and a sprint across to the toilet block. The way nature had the wind and horizontal rain working wasn’t much else to do today and I’m afraid to say Friday wasn’t a whole lot better in the morning – the weather did finally clear up in the late arvo and even the sun poked its head through for an hour or so before sunset. Briar and I went for a stroll around the promenade around the corner – also picked up something for dinner. Have fed Cam up since we arrived – been surviving on sandwiches last few weeks – not operating on the budget Mumsie and I have, he is starting to get colour again in his cheeks and looks a lot healthier. Scurvy look gone.
The next morning was clear again but still with patchy and high clouds dotting the horizons. Today we were packing our bags and doing a Hvar island run for a couple days – Cam can hold the fort with Hugo and gives him some time to sort his passage back to Amsterdam and then back to Ireland before also heading home to NZ – November 9th.
We bused into Split centro around 2pm – had a 3.30pm fast ferry to catch out to Hvar on the island of Hvar. The cloud had come back in – no rain just high overcast cloud. The catamaran trip out fairly uneventful – passed a couple islands on the way out. Pulled into Hvar port/harbour around 4.30pm. Hadn’t booked accommodation – so bombarded by locals trying to offer an apartment or room for the night – avoided most of them – was one persistent little chap who kept coming back – we stopped – looked around and picked a set of steps – headed on up – first Hotel (which happened to be one of the only still open) Park Hotel. Nice quaint looking recently renovated hotel. Checked out the price – inc. breakfast – this will do us not to far out of the square – nice /clean and modern looking inside the foyer area. Booked in and ended up on the second floor with a one bedroom apartment with living room, all very nicely done out and with superb views of the port/harbour across the rooftop- I say roof top because there was basically only one between us and the port.
After unpacking bags – did the walk and check out the local patch thing – walked around the promenade in one direction first on the town side – before losing ourselves in amongst the alleyway of Hvar . Also checked out a couple places to head back for dinner. A bit of TV – even if it was BBC and some more soccer – and did have some English speaking films on one channel – fairly outdated – but I always enjoyed Colombo and Gregory Peck. Had free wifi as well – so did a little surfing too.
Went for dinner at a earlier spotted taverna – charming little Croatian lass who spoke fluent English served us – we being their only customers at the time.
So wined and dined on local fare ( wonder what Cam’s cooking for dinner tonite I thought) in a nice ambient and traditional surroundings.
Food was a wee bit better than average – nothing sensational. After dinner and a stroll back to our hotel we both watched some TV and chilled on the couch before hitting the king sized bed – yahoo.
Picked the weather right as the next morning not a cloud to be seen and talk about warm trev, 25 degrees – did the exploratory sightseeing the ruins and Hvar’s most noted highpoints – we both slept in abit so after our inclusive brekkie ( very good)
We hiked up the hill to the Venetian Fortress on top of the hill – about the third Venetian fortress way up on a hill weve visited here in eastern and southern Europe.
Excellently preserved fortress with sensational views over the town, harbour and the Pakleni Islands.
The Venetians sure knew what they were doing when they built these almost impregnable fortresses. This one even had a small museum inside – with a few old relics and archaeological remnants from days gone by. Had the place almost to ourselves the entire time we were there.
After that we came back down the hill and wandered around to a few more bays further around – weaved our way through some alleys and roads down to the promenade walkway which circumnavigates the coastline for 3 or 4 k’s both ways from Hvar port. Passed a couple of topless whales no doubt northern European working on their breast tans. Passed many shut down beachside bars and then passed the 5 star Hotel Amphora –with its cascading pools down to its private beach – with own boardwalks/ changing rooms and spa complex.
Nobody there at the mo – except a few of the guests / some locals and maybe some nosy tourists like us potting around. Continued walking around till we got back to the port area – scored a baguette and some ham/cheese for lunch. Then packed the backpack with our swimmers / a water bottle / some books and mandarins and some ready supplied hotel beach towels – made a beeline back to the Amphora Hotel boardwalks along the coastline – which were nice and private – bonus had steps down into the water or we could chill on their private pebble beach.
We chose the boardwalk as did a couple of others. I braved the sea water whilst Briar sunned herself. The water was cool at first from the heat of the day – but once in and swimming around it was as cool as it gets at home in the summer. Main difference being the clarity of the water is truly amazing – ya think ya can touch the bottom and its metres away. You can also float without having to kick or keep moving – the buoyancy of the water also truly amazing. Splashed about for a good 10 minutes before lying on the towel and reading me Mafia story novel. Spent the rest of the arvo reading/tanning and did brave the water once more. Back at the hotel showered and did some more TV surfing the channels – BBC being the only English one consistently became the preferred channel.
Around seven pm we headed down to the hotel restaurant and like last night we were the only customers. We were well looked after by the young hotel waiter Mati with a sense of humour, who had befriended us because we took the time to acknowledge his shaking hand trick – which the other guests didn’t. So we got the good treatment compared to them. Both dined on superb tasting and cooked Croatian beef steaks with a fig/brandy and red wine consumme – buonissimo.
Headed back up to our room both full as bulls (was that a pun MC ) spent the remainder of the evening chilling on the couch ion front of the TV – happened to be a Harry Potter movie on. Both have really enjoyed the extra luxury and space of a building as opposed to Hugo’s limited space but home is home and Hugo has been home for the past 10 months.
Briar has also enjoyed having her own bathroom as well.
Up around 9.00am – breakfast with our shakin hand mate Mati for the last time – even left him a tip. Managed to sneak in a haircut – more like a trim really – the hairdresser arrived as I got there – but was told to disappear for 10 minutes so could make herself ready – huh . WOMAN ??
Packed the bags and caught the free shuttle to Stari Grad where our ferry back to Split left – cost Eu22.00 each on the fast catamaran out and Eu35.00 each on the slow ferry back – don’t kinda figure. Pulled into Split harbour around 2pm caught the bus back out to camping Strobec – more ozzies at the camp ground – cam had dined with the night before – so had them over for a Barbie as ya do – well certainly as Briar and I do. Nice west Australian couple – Clinton & Kelly doin their European tour – been at it awhile longer than most we have shared a Barbie with – been to Turkey shared some stories and camping addresses with us – sweet as.
Not so many raptures about Greece however – broke down their – took 6 weeks to get sorted – far too long to spend in Greece unless you’re on a beach.
They like us were heading off the next morning to another destination – they were heading toward Slovenia – we had a ferry to catch to Italy. The weather superb for our last day in Croatia – no real rush – didn’t have to get out of camp till midday – so we didn’t left poor old Cam behind with his Pup tent for one more night before he caught a bus to Frankfurt – before another bus to Amsterdam.
We didn’t have to catch our Ferry till 7pm so we drove up to Trogir for lunch – picturesque little town about 20 k’s north of Split- quaint harbour and old town. Killed a few hours before heading back to drop Cam off at Strobec camp before we made a beeline for the Jardojlina ferry terminal at Split port. Whilst waiting at the terminal for to dock our ferry we ran into Andrew an ozzie chap we shared some banter over coffee with in Prague – he had been to several other countries catching up with family and friends – amazing stuff – he was just as blown away as we were to see each other – had a cuppa with him in Hugo while waiting to catch our ferries. Docked the ferry about 6,30pm – we did manage a stroll along the Split harbour promenade at night – took some piccies.
Uneventful crossing as one would expect at night – fairly rocknrolla crossing – both managed to sneak a couple hours shut eye – but both pretty weary by time we docked in Ancona around 7.00am next morning. Least it was another superb fine morning – Italian soil again – molto buono – maybe – Did the border crossing thing – did require to show both our passports – 2nd time only on whole trip – we did however get our very first stamp since arriving in Heathrow almost 11months ago. Ancona typical Italian port all mayhem and disorder to the max – not really but seemed like that, compared to the ultra-smooth northern countires of Europe.
We found a quiet local (8K’s outta town ) supermarket car-park where we put blinds up and went to sleep for a few hours. Woke around midday – went did some shopping and headed back down the port area around 1pm to pick up our tickets and queue for our 1st camping on-board experience on the Ancona to Patras ferry trip.
After some messing around finally found the ticket office – scored our pre-booked tickets then found the queue for our ferry – which they happened to be loading so had some brunch in the queue whilst we waited. On board around 2.30pm – sailed off 3.30pm
- Four other campervanners on board – one we knew to be a kiwi family as was told by ticket office lady that a kiwi family were doing the same crossing as we were.
So as ya do – as we were hooking up to the on-board power – introduced me self to John & Tracey a couple from Waiuku doin their big OE tour with their two daughters.
Chatted as ya do – swapped back home stuff, travel stories , info. , books – paperbacks actually etc.etc – hey this is the world of campervanners/travellers – can ya dig it.
Briar & I both did separate tours of the cruise ship – which is pretty much what it is – we will travel back to Ancona on this ship in early December– but won’t be able to camp on board then. We will have a cabin instead.
I had a shave & a shower in the cruise ship showers – all OK – hadn’t been able to for 1 ½ days or so. Nice – clean –yum. We cooked down below – the signs said no gas – they should have said it in English – idiots. Watched a Dvd before drifting off to sleep with the gentle rolling motion one has when cruising across the seas. Being open ya can stand and watch the moonlight shimmer across the seas from your campervan window – cool stuff.
I slept well – not sure Briar did – pulled into Igounimetsa around 9.00am next morning and Patras around 1.00pm – no checking or stamping of passports here as we disembarked and bid farewell to john & tracey – perhaps we will catch up with them somewhere in Greece. They had around a 3 week time – frame compared to our 5 week. We ended up going left instead of right – but that’s Ok – pulled into a fuel stop and filled up and then went back in the right direction to get to our next destination. As we now have no Delilah(tom-tom/GPS) to guide us to where we need to get – its down to maps and road signs –and have you ever tried to read Greek ( fun & games) – they did have the signs in English also but they were another 100 metres or so further down the road – right next to where ya are supposed to make right or left turn.
The terrain very similar to Croatia – very rocky – lotsa confiers about – also very similar style housing to Italy and Croatia – all concrete block and concrete unispan floors – generally 2 sometimes 3 storey high and majority unfinished but obviously people living in them – clothes hanging on the clotheslines on the unfinished third floor obvious sign.
From first appearances place also a bit grubby like Italy – no sense of pride in their surroundings and as for their driving, well …Thought we left plenty crazy bastards behind in Italy – not – plenty of them here as well – ya wonder what there hurry is – ya live on an island ya numskulls.
Had about 100 k’s or so to our campground Paradise camping on Pelop and of course a shit load of Olive trees everywhere. We pulled into our campground Paradise on
Peloponese Island – not far from Olympia – where the in the first Olympic games were held of course and where the torch bearers flame is lit and then carried each year to the next Olympic games venue from here.
Had beachfront possie as no one else but us in the camp. Toilet /shower block looked as though hadn’t been used or cleaned for a few weeks – did have hot water. In Greece they have waste bins next to the loos – as you are not supposed to put any form of paper down the loo to be flushed . Hence the waste bins in every toilet stall – no matter where one parks oneself in Greece.
Enjoyed a wonderful sunset with our Barbie and vino. Both enjoying the peace and tranquillity – read till we crashed. The sunrise not quite so majestic – but there was a fisherman pottering about in his little boat trying to catch something. Little bit of cloud around as we brekkied and showered – sun did poke itself through as we drove outta camp Paradise – headed to Olympia, where we parked Hugo up – several tour buses there and shitloads Taxi’s – Parked under an Olive tree and wandered in – payed the entry fee.
The layout and complex was well constructed – but the earthquakes had definitely altered the look – as mostly ruins with everything scattered about or toppled over – A few coluimns remained standing and a few had been rebuilt to give one the idea of its grandeur. The whole complex was basically about training athletes to compete against each other in the stadium which was impressive – did the Maximus salute in there – piccies of lotsa big stones and ruins.
Cute little town Olympia – after we finished strolling around the ruins – we checked out Olympia museum and then wandered into town – picked up a spinach pie and a greek baguette for lunch. When we got back to Hugo all the tour buses and taxis gone, left only us and a couple empty campervans in the carpark – sweet. Nice quiet carpark for lunch. Travelled onto Messini just outside Kalamata (where we had a huge deluge ) so much so that it was about 12 inches deep on some parts of the road – stopped in between deluges at a supermarket ( Carrefours sign – but they call it something else can’t pronounce)
Briar in turning along the route managed to put a dent in Hugo’s rear. Bugger
Headed further around the coastline where we stopped in a cute little village called Petaldi – a campervan stop ( free camp) on the marina – Briar a bit freaked – me she be jake mate. Had dinner and read some before lights out. Had the odd stare and car drive slowly passed – but we both slept fairly well – woke to a brilliantly fine and clear morning – the stormy clouds had rolled on through. headed off around 9.00am back through Kalamata – this navgating without Delilah not too bad and toward Mystras – a supposedly worthwhile archealogical /ruins site worth checking out – when we got there and saw it was basically another fortress way up on a hill with another entry fee – decided to turn around in the carpark and hightail it outta there. Drove on to Sparta where we stopped for a coffee and some Spanokopita ( filo wrapped spinach and feta ) delicious – the coffee bit of let down.
Drove smack through the middle of downtown Sparta – traffic congestion diabolical even had to forcefully use Hugo’s size to make people reverse outta our way. It was also market day – which why there was a shitload of traffic about.
Then we circumnavigated the alps I mean some mountains – felt like the alps – took about 2 hours to drive 58 k’s – up one side in 2nd gear then down the other in 2nd gear weaving down and up the mountains – made it to Nafplio around 1pm – good on ya Hugo. Parked in the carpark with around 7 other campervanners – another free campervanner stop.
A very picturesque little town stuck on the edge of a bay – Cruise ship parked out further in the bay. We walked up the hill to wait for it …another Venetian fortress on a hill with a supreme defensive position which commands views over the surroundings – Lonely planet says a mini Venice – not really – there certainly weren’t any canals – but very picturesque liitle town with a very nice little harbour/port. Found an internet café to do some much needed Wifi stuff – man how would ya do without now.
Did the climb up to the fortress – 400 steps or so had a few breathers along he way – didn’t actually go in – entry fee again which would mean spending a couple of hours to do it justice – but phenomenal views from up here. Back down again wandered through the lanes and alleyways. Snappies here and there – back to the parking lot – chatted to a kiwi and pommie couple before heading off around the corner – around 8 k’s or so – found a campsite – excellent or more appropriate cute camp with free wifi – very nice owners and OK facilities – cooked dinner in the camp kitchen with some Argentinian couple on tour.
Amazing who ya run into and have conversations with on tour. Really nice couple who were once again doing the European tour like us . Sharing conversation with strangers from different cultures/backrounds is amazing to us and to them. But one can appreciate the dominance of the English language on our travels as they all speak it enough no matter where they are from to hold conversation with a couple of kiwis from downunder.
Enjoyed dinner the free wifi and a quiet place to rest our heads and sleep safe and sound. November the first today – the journey’s end is near – probably only a couple more updates to go now – anyhows after brekkie and a hot shower off to Epidavouros another ancient Mycanaean civilisation and city ruins mid morning –
but with an an almost intact amphitheatre with only modest replacements here and there . No entry fee –sign on the gate saying free entry – yeayy. Outstanding natural amphitheatre built almost 5000 years ago and still here – with acoustics as good as any modern designed theatre today – but this one is open air. Would have been nice to have it to ourselves – something of a rarity anywhere in Europe I’d say these days. Managed some pics without anyone else in them – Awesome place – if I don’t see another ruin or temple then this will do me.
Wandered through some more toppled ruins and another stadium – equally as impressive as Olympia. Then onto Mycanae another village of ruins sitting on top of a hill – another equally impressive place built again 5000BC – the engineering feats of these bygone civilisations – amazing – what was also amazing that this was free entry also – timed it right for our visists today.
Oustanding views over the surrounding valley and the bay right back down to Nafplio.
Had some lunch in the carpark before heading on to Corinth – where more ruins – did not stop for these as according to the Lonely Planet (maybe not worth checking out) – we drove over a bridge across the famous Isthmus a 23m wide by 8km long channel carved out of the rock some 50 years ago by dutch engineers for getting ships from the Aegean sea to the Adriatic without having to circumnavigate around the Cyclades and Peloponese island itself. Another marvel or blight of human interference with the landscape, Then straight on into Athens – 4 lanes traffic both ways and a side boom – which the odd impatient speedster tended to use rather than the appropriate outside lanes. Hey this Greece crazy drivers.
After refuelling we managed to find our campsite without to much difficulty – did take an illegal U-turn to get to it on one of the main drags...now we know how to fit in with the locals!
Pulled in around 2pm – checked in and set up Hugo. Will be here for a week at least if not more. The main drag a very busy and noisy road by the sounds of things – will definitely be using the earplugs here. Still, a good camp with good facilites and free Wifi – which can do anywhere in camp – great means can sit at the table inside Hugo and do the surfing the net thing. Spent the arvo reading and doing Wifi stuff, then dinner.
After dinner we happened to be washing up our dishes at the campground sinks and we recognised a familiar voice babbling on to a couple poms – low and behold Kiwi Kane who we’ve shared a few barbies, vino’s and bullshit with in Budapest with him and his good lady Fiona. Well, they piled over as soon as they knew we were here – armed of course bottles in hand .
But that’s another story and one in which you will have to wait until the next update.
Second last update – till next time as the Greek say andio for now.